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what's a better wood?


c0kenp0pr0ckz

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I'm pretty sure this is going to be parodied because of the title, but I was just wondering which kind of wood is best for the body of a bass?

specifically, which is better, ash or alder? but then i'd also like to know generally what is the heirarchy of body woods

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Originally posted by c0kenp0pr0ckz

I'm pretty sure this is going to be parodied because of the title, but I was just wondering which kind of wood is best for the body of a bass?

specifically, which is better, ash or alder? but then i'd also like to know generally what is the heirarchy of body woods

 

 

"better" is the wrong term. You want to concentrate on what tonal qualities you are looking for. Bright - Ash or Maple. Medium - Alder or Poplar, Warm Mahogany or walnut.

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Depends specifically on the type of sound wanted. If you want real bright with very little bass, maples good. If you want real dark, easilly muddy and just a little treble, mahogany is good. If you want a balanced sound, woods like alder & poplar. If you want real resonant, basswoods a pref choice of many pros. If you want growly, then same woods warwick uses(bubinga, ovankal & wenge). Combining dif woods together does not give the best of both worlds imo. It gives a comprimise sound between the woods used. Sometimes thats very nice, sometimes it isnt. If you want dark but articulate then agatis is better choice then mahogany.

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Originally posted by james on bass

You can pick a good tonal wood as well (say ash or alder) and have a fancier facing wood on top (like a figured maple). The basic tonal characteristics would be the body wood, with a little bit of the facing wood giving some added sound.

 

 

Not true.

 

Roger Sadowsky said that a top less than a quater inch (?not sure on the exact size?) thick does not affect tone at all.

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Originally posted by illidian



Not true.


Roger Sadowsky said that a top less than a quater inch (?not sure on the exact size?) thick does not affect tone at all.

 

 

No doubt Roger has tonnes of knowledge in that area, but many other reputed builders would disagree. I tend to believe the facing wood would have a small effect on sound as the bridge, pups etc... are mounted to the face.

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Go with the wood that looks best to you.

 

In the hierarchy of bass tone, the body wood isn't all that significant.

 

Player input has the greatest effect.

The rest are in order according to my opinion.

 

Strings

Pickups/electronics

Bridge

Nut

Body wood

Fingerboard wood

Neck wood

Body top wood

Tuners

Body finish

Neck finish

Humidity

Temperature

Color

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Originally posted by Darkstorm

Depends specifically on the type of sound wanted. If you want real bright with very little bass, maples good. If you want real dark, easilly muddy and just a little treble, mahogany is good. If you want a balanced sound, woods like alder & poplar. If you want real resonant, basswoods a pref choice of many pros. If you want growly, then same woods warwick uses(bubinga, ovankal & wenge). Combining dif woods together does not give the best of both worlds imo. It gives a comprimise sound between the woods used. Sometimes thats very nice, sometimes it isnt. If you want dark but articulate then agatis is better choice then mahogany.

 

 

 

And agathis is very light on your shoulder.

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From my experience in building, I find purpleheart to be about the best material to use anywhere in a bass. The resonance is way tighter than any other wood I've used...even to the point of adding a thin layer inside the neck pocket.

 

Don't ask me why...it just works...clearer than maple, warmer than walnut. It's heavy, so if you like a big bodied bass it's a back breaker.

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Roger S is wrong. All the basses & guitars I've played that had quilted or flamed maple tops have been 1/8 or 3/16 to just barely less then 1/4 inch thick. And the top does indeed influence the sound with easilly hearable brighter and sharper edge compared to the same model bass or guitar without a top. BC Rich for example has long sold exact same model NJ series guitars & basses that had option of black finish (no top) and colored see thru finishes (with top). There tops are on average 3/16 or little less thick. I would agree that a 1/8 or less thick top probably doesnt do more then very minor tone tweak. But any that are close to 3/16 difinately will as easilly proven by side by side comparrisons. Most of the under 1/8 thick 'tops" are probably photoflame which means its just a stick on decal pic. So yes those wont benefit sound an more then puttng a bunch of sticky back decals on you instrument.

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Actually, the best "ideal" wood is seldom used and hardly known of. BUTTERWOOD. It's light as poplar, has a grain similar to Ash and tones closer to Mahogany. The dear fellow who made ButtaBass guitars died last winter but his pieces will live on and gain popularity I suspect......His basses were a blend of the Jazz bass and a Thunderbird. Does anybody know if they kept the shop going?

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