Members bassguy Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 ok, if anyone thinks it a bad idea to defret a wine red yamaha bb605 active 3 band eq with mid. freq knob 5 stringer say something now...lol im thinking about taking the ez route and using wood putty.what are the difficulties going this route?i think i have wood putty, but will any kind work?what grid sand paper should i use?how many times should i do it?how do i rip out the dot inlays? tools i know i need:sandpapersodering ironneedle nose plierswood putty anyways, voice your opionions plz...i need input on this, cause im sitting on the fence so to speak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassplayinguy Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 a flexible putty knife woods really well for prying up on the frets while heating them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassguy Posted September 19, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 kk, how rought/gental should i be? someone link the website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hobobot009 Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 Wood putty sucks, given the choice I would go with maple strips and glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rikshaw Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 what are the difficulties going this route? the wood will shrink on you several times. how do i rip out the dot inlays? i drilled mine out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassguy Posted September 19, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 what do you mean shrink? im going to have to putty the neck more than once? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hobobot009 Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 Yes, once , twice, however many times it takes to be flush with the rest of the board. I recommend you use light sanding paper for this. For the defretting part try to find some flat tip plyers, thats what I used. I tried using a putty knife but the thing bent and broke. If I wasn't wearing my glasses I would have probably lost my left eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rikshaw Posted September 19, 2005 Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 i had to do it 5 or 6 times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassguy Posted September 19, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 so how long am i lookin at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassguy Posted September 19, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 19, 2005 possible to buy a new fretboard for it, and pay for it to get done? if i can get a nice lookin board then im thinking that would be worth the money, i dont really want lines, i want side lines thats it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rikshaw Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 it took me about 3 weeks mostly because i'm a freakin idiot. i bought stain that had PU in it. after that kicked my ass for a few days, i had to sand it all down and start over. that actually wasnt too bad because the putty had shrank and needed to be redone. the most important thing that i can say (thanks rippin robbin) is to use one of those foam roller brushes otherwise you will get streaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hobobot009 Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 Originally posted by bassguy possible to buy a new fretboard for it, and pay for it to get done?if i can get a nice lookin board then im thinking that would be worth the money, i dont really want lines, i want side lines thats it That would be the best route to take. Converting your bass from fretted to fretless is hit or miss if you don't know what your doing. You will almost always have noticible fretlines unless you use a dark stain that evenly blends the color of the fretboard to the fretlines, and yes foam brushes work best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rikshaw Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 Originally posted by hobobot009 and yes foam brushes work best. only the roller ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassguy Posted September 20, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 what about replacing the whole fretboard?...warmoth sells ebony replacements Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassplayinguy Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 i doubt youll get no lines unless, youhave a dark fretboard and you tint your filler. but it took me about 2 hours to totally defret the neck, then i cleaned out the slots and then sanded downthe rough edges. Then i filled the holes, let it dry, sanded, and repeated till they were cured. took about 2 days then i used marine polyurethane to coat the neck in a satin finsih, i put 3 coats, on 1 every nite, sanding in between, its not show peice but it more than certainly does the job, and it only cost me like 20 bucks to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rikshaw Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 i have no lines on mine. i used the darkest stain that i could find and applied several coats. i then applied several coats of PU. it looks really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sixgun77 Posted September 20, 2005 Members Share Posted September 20, 2005 If you don't mind the lines, then gel type carzy glue is exceptionally easy to fill the slots with. It polishes up real nice and shiny too. I took the dots out of mine with a dremel tool with a router base. I pressed in abalone ones and put a dot of crazy glue on top. After it dries it polishes up just like clearcoat. I pull the frets out with pliers. Least conversion I did I used my brother's leatherman pliers. If you get any chips in the fingerboard, save them. Put a MINIMUM amount of glue under the chip and carefully press it back into place with a toothpick or straightened paper clip. I like to use silicon carbide wet/dry paper. I use grits 240, 400, 600, and 800. 1200 grit rubbing compound is useful as well. Check online for an industrial supply company called MSC for good quality abrasives and polishing gear. Feel free to PM me if you want any specific info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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