Members Crescent Seven Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 Paging burdizzos... So I traded an old amp that was on it's deathbed and a Crate POS Strat copy for a brand new Peavey Scorpion 15" today. I was going to load it into my homemade OSB Leviathan 1x15" DoomSpeak MasterCab Deluxxx, but the hole in the baffle is too big, so I absolutely MUST build another cabinet. I can't seem to find the optimum cab specs for this speaker on-line, so could somebody that has some software or something give a brother a hand designing this thing? I want it to be warm, but punchy, so my B string doesn't sound like an elephant taking a {censored}. Dimensions, porting, etc. I downloaded WinISD but I'll be damned if I know what the {censored} to do with it. Thanks! C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jannda Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 HI I build speaker cabs as a hobby sort of see my sig i built most of them and many that aren't listed. and I have one that was designed for that speaker but i have a peavey sheffield 1500 pro plus in mine what do you want to know i have another that will work with it but it was disigned for an altec D140 old sunn type cab if you want you can email me at dpipkey011@msn.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 23, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 On winISD, I want the resonant frequency (Fs) to fall as close to 3db on the graph, correct?I'm still trying to figure this program out...C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jannda Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 IVE never used that program but that sounds about right but a larger Fs wont hurt unless you get up around 5-6 Dbs but it kind of depends on what you can live with the larger the number you can get aboomy sounding cab at your speaker resanot feq. or you might get a cab that will really drop off in volume at some notes with the smaller number it will have less chance of being boomy but can still drop off at some feq. but not as bad a lot of it depends on port vol. and over all cab design ie vol vs speaker res feq.if you want i can send you some dimentions i know will work with your speaer and you can plug them into your program and see which one looks best but ill have to do it tomorrowand i can email them to you but building them might be harder than designing them one is a folded horn and one is a poted cab they both work well and i use both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 23, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 Ok, so for a tighter, punchy sound, I want to have a smaller-volume cab, right? And for the warm low end, I want a larger volume cab? I need this thing to roll with a low B, but not go BOOOOOOMM!! C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jannda Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 yep for the most part thats true but you can go to small or to big very easally if you go to big with a ported cab you will lose some spewker dampaning and it will boom at some feq. to small will over dampen the speaker and you lose some vol. and power handleing capability it's not as critical with a sealed cab but it is if your going to port it if you give me you emai address i can send you some dimentions for 2 cabs apeavey that was designsd for your speaker and a sunn cab i really like the sunn it's an exalent cab my favorite in fact i use the 215 verson but 115 is just the same cab but just half of the 215the peavey will be easer to build but the sunn will be more of what your looking for i think . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members phatster Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 +1 on the Sunn cabinet design,my favorite as well!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 For a nice balance of low end, punch and potability, the following formula should work well. 25" Wide27" Tall16" Deep Made from 3/4" plywood. 1 Six inch port, five inches long. That will give you a -3 point of just under 50 Hz, -6 dB at 39 Hz and a the 100 Hz 2 dB bump that most bass cabs have. If you want better lows, you'll need a bigger cab. 25" Wide42" Tall16" Deep3/4" ply1 Six inch port, 3 1/4" long That will give you a -3 dB point of about 40 Hz, -6 dB at 30 Hz and a flatter frequency response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 23, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos For a nice balance of low end, punch and potability, the following formula should work well.25" Wide27" Tall16" DeepMade from 3/4" plywood.1 Six inch port, five inches long.That will give you a -3 point of just under 50 Hz, -6 dB at 39 Hz and a the 100 Hz 2 dB bump that most bass cabs have. Did you use the T/S parameters from the Scorpion, or is this a common-knowledge design? I only ask because I want to know how much those parameters really matter...Thanks for the help. My design came in at 24"w x 20"h x 18" d, with a -3 point around 58 Hz, but since I don't know what to shoot for, I'm skeptical about it. I need it to handle a low B, but not sound boomy.C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 I used the T/S parameters for the scorpion. Common rule of thumb: Bigger cab, less boomy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jannda Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 It's me again 24w is about standard anywhere between 24-26 w is what most cabs are 20 h is a little on the short side for me most of mine are taller than wide 18d might be a little to deep but some of my folded horn cabs are becuse you need the room for the baffles I try to shoot for about 12-14d but as long as you keep the internal vol. the same with in about 10% and try not to make the w-h to close to the same dimention you should be okIM going to go measure some of my 15" cabs and I will get back to you good luck DAVE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jannda Posted October 23, 2005 Members Share Posted October 23, 2005 It's me again here are some dim. that will work I know because i use these cabs all the time these are od dim. made out of 3/4 plywood with a 1 1/4-1 3/4 back spaceing on the speaker board to allow for the grill the 1 3/4 is if you use 1/2 blocks behind the grill you will need plans if you whant to build these because the baffleing is somewhat complicated but i can give them to you if you want them or if any body else doe's just email me at dpipkey011@msn.com and i'll see what i can do ok here goes peavey 115 this was designed for you speaker 24 1/4w-26 3/4h-12 3/4d sunn folded horn this was designed for an altec d140 or eminence but will still work with your speaker and it's an awsome sounding cab my favorite 24w-26h-14d I also have a 118 cab that can be modifide to work witha 15 but it's very complicated cab to build it's based on an acoustic 301 cab but about 3/4 the size32h-24w-18d if that looks interesting let me know it's my #2 cab and also is an awsome cab I can rework it for your 15 let me know DAVE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 24, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Common rule of thumb: Bigger cab, less boomy. Really? That's cool, I thought it was the opposite!Thanks again. I'll post some pics when I get it finished, hopefully this weekend.C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gruven Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Nobody's mentioned that you should use void free or marine grade plywood for your cabinet. Particle board works well also, but it's pretty heavy. You also need to caulk the joints to seal the box so that the only air moving into or out of the cabinet goes through the port. If you're interested, JBL used to (might still) provide spec sheets for their speakers that contained proper box specifications - per speaker - as well as port sizes and construction and insulation tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 24, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by Gruven Nobody's mentioned that you should use void free or marine grade plywood for your cabinet. Particle board works well also, but it's pretty heavy. You also need to caulk the joints to seal the box so that the only air moving into or out of the cabinet goes through the port. If you're interested, JBL used to (might still) provide spec sheets for their speakers that contained proper box specifications - per speaker - as well as port sizes and construction and insulation tips. I wish I had a JBL!! I'll try to use the void free ply, if it's not too expensive, because with those dimensions I might need to buy 2 sheets. Particle board is out of the question; I get sick as a dog whenever I cut that stuff, for some reason...and besides, it just plain sucks to work with... C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Emprov Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by Crescent Seven I wish I had a JBL!! I'll try to use the void free ply, if it's not too expensive, because with those dimensions I might need to buy 2 sheets. Particle board is out of the question; I get sick as a dog whenever I cut that stuff, for some reason...and besides, it just plain sucks to work with... C7 Void free ply can get pricey, MDF does well but it's dang heavy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Standard 3/4"(23/32") ply will work fine. If you can hear the difference between that and a cab made from $80 sheets of plywood, I'll buy you a beer. The cabinet grade stuff is the best readily available plywood to use. It can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $45 a sheet. Draw out a 4x8 sheet on a piece of paper and then try to get all of the pieces out of one sheet. You should be able to do it with one sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Emprov Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Standard 3/4"(23/32") ply will work fine. If you can hear the difference between that and a cab made from $80 sheets of plywood, I'll buy you a beer. I can tell the difference! *parks outside of Burdizzo's house and waits* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gruven Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Standard 3/4"(23/32") ply will work fine. If you can hear the difference between that and a cab made from $80 sheets of plywood, I'll buy you a beer. It's more about accidental resonances that can be created by the voids in standard plywood. With void free there's no guessing. I have built cabs out of birch plywood with good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by Emprov I can tell the difference! *parks outside of Burdizzo's house and waits* If you're willing to drive across the country, I'll buy you a beer and put you up for the night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 24, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Standard 3/4"(23/32") ply will work fine. If you can hear the difference between that and a cab made from $80 sheets of plywood, I'll buy you a beer.The cabinet grade stuff is the best readily available plywood to use. It can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $45 a sheet.Draw out a 4x8 sheet on a piece of paper and then try to get all of the pieces out of one sheet.You should be able to do it with one sheet. $45 a sheet?!?! Wow, it's been a while since I last bought plywood...I guess you get what you pay for, or something...I might have to go with some OSX or OSB...I think the OSX I used for my last cab project sounded pretty good, and it's flooring plywood, so it's pretty sturdy {censored}...C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 24, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Another question: Front ported or rear ported??C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members takeout Posted October 24, 2005 Members Share Posted October 24, 2005 Originally posted by Crescent Seven Another question: Front ported or rear ported??C7 As b-dizzle was kind enough to tell me: either ported. Doesn't matter where you put it. Go to AcmeBass for the explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 25, 2005 Author Members Share Posted October 25, 2005 Originally posted by takeout As b-dizzle was kind enough to tell me: either ported. Doesn't matter where you put it.Go to AcmeBass for the explanation. I'll probably front port it in that case...C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted October 25, 2005 Members Share Posted October 25, 2005 I don't care about the theory; every front-ported cab I've played has sounded better to my ears than rear-ported ones. Ever notice the higher-end cabinets tend to be front ported (Ampeg PR410HLF, Genz-Benz XB2 series) while the cheaper ones are rear (Ampeg BXT, Genz-Benz Live Series)? Can't be coincidence and I don't think it's just placebo effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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