Members groutt Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 I pulled the frets out of a Samick p-bass. They came out really clean and I couldn't resist trying it out before filling the slots. It's been a while now and the slots aren't really noticeable when I play. OK, someone that could play better might notice it. Do I really need to fill? Will moisture or some other bad mojo get in through the slots? I'm using flatwounds and the fingerboard seems to be holding up OK as it is. Whatcha think?
Members sunburstbasser Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 I'd fill them, just to have a smoother feel. Otherwise, Bill Wyman ripped his frets out around '62 and for most of his days with the Stones used that same bass, and I don't think he ever filled the slots.
Members Billy-B Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 I believe I read somewhere after Jaco pulled the frets out of his P bass (I think that's what it was, anyway), he surfaced the fretboard with some type of resin. That seems like an idea. Billy-B
Members Jazz Ad Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 You'll be sorry if you don't.It's pretty easy.Don't use wood putty, it's all messy.The easiest is cyanocrylate glue.Better, use guitar binding.
Members sunburstbasser Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 Originally posted by Billy-B I believe I read somewhere after Jaco pulled the frets out of his P bass (I think that's what it was, anyway), he surfaced the fretboard with some type of resin. That seems like an idea.Billy-B Jaco used a Jazz. He pulled the frets out, filled the slots, and coated it in marine epoxy.
Members Sixgun77 Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 After I rip the frets out with pliers(I do this on all my basses) I usually fill the slots with crazy glue. You'll have to apply a layer and let it dry. repeat until it's built up to the top of the slot. you'll have to do some sanding and polishing bit it'll buff up just fine. After sanding it smooth with the rest of the fretboard you'll have to give it another hit or two of glue to fill in the spots where it's shrunk as it dried. Don't forget to make sure the side contours at the edge of the fingerboard are filled ans smoothed properly as well. I like to sand more radius into the edges of the neck/fingerboard because it makes it a little more comfy for me to play. Be careful doing that as it will narrow the space on your fingerboard. feel free to PM me about all this stuff.
Members Yools Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 Originally posted by Sixgun77 After I rip the frets out with pliers(I do this on all my basses) I usually fill the slots with crazy glue. snip snip. Can you get 'crazy glue' in larger volumes than those tiny tubes? I'd like to try something like this, but it seem it would be better if I could get a small can/bottle or something similar. -Yools
Members Billy-B Posted November 13, 2005 Members Posted November 13, 2005 Originally posted by sunburstbasser Jaco used a Jazz. He pulled the frets out, filled the slots, and coated it in marine epoxy. Thanks SBB, I'm not a big fan of his, but I knew it was something like that... Billy-B
Members bleepo Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 Originally posted by groutt I pulled the frets out of a Samick p-bass. I did exactly that! I filled mine.
Members bassman1956 Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 If you want to fill using ONLY super glue, go with a gel / gap filling type. Will make the job much easier and faster. You can get bigger tubes, but don't go much more than the 1/2oz bottles. It's not cheap, and if the applicator tip end buggers up, which they do very easily, then the whole thing's damn near useless. If you want a touch of something else, you could check out bindings and such from places like StewMac, and use that as a line filling material instead. Could give you a classier lined effect.
Members T-40 Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 I defretted a neck once and filled it in with maple wood filler just to have the line contrast against the rosewood. I sanded everything smooth and coated the fretboard with 3 or 4 layers of thick poly. It played pretty well but a fretless is an evil weapon in my hands. I parted it out and sold everything on eBay after a few months.
Members Sixgun77 Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 Originally posted by Yools Can you get 'crazy glue' in larger volumes than those tiny tubes? I'd like to try something like this, but it seem it would be better if I could get a small can/bottle or something similar.-Yools I think i did a whole bass with 2 of the little tubes. Definitely use the gel/filler type as has been suggested. The bass I have waiting for slot filling is getting abalone markers. I'm going to order abalone strips from stewmac and cut them to length. Then I'll rout the slots so they fit a little below flush. I'll use glue over top them to build up to the fingerboard raduis and edges. The glue will be sanded to match the rest of the neck and polished up.
Members 11 hour limit Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 whats crazy glue in Australia? is that like a 2 part glue with a hardner? is it like Tarzan's Grip stuff?contarty to this I took my Jazz to my luthier when gettin some electronics work done on a Warwick I had at teh time and asked if there was any need to fill the gaps left from when I pulled the frets outta my Jazz bass and he asked me how much playing/what sorta playing I was doing with teh Jazz, i said just a little at home, no gigs etc 1 hour per week tops and he said to not bother filling as there wouldn't be enought moisture/dirt etc deposited from that sorta playing to damage the neck for a long time?mmm i dunno, I'm inclined to fill em, just dunno what crazy glue means exactly..dave
Members bassman1956 Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 Crazy glue is cyanoacrylate glue.
Members 11 hour limit Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 cool thanks for that,
Members groutt Posted November 14, 2005 Author Members Posted November 14, 2005 Thanks everone, gap filling crazy glue it is then.
Members Thumper Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 You'll want to dress your fingerboard before playing. Go to Stewart McDonald at www.stewmac.com and get a radius sanding block to even out the board.
Members bholder Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 If you don't, then they'll eventually fill themselves with dead skin, oils, and other rotten finger gunk. Go for it if that's the effect you want!
Members kcrichard Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 I recently defretted a Fender MB-5. I used plastic wood filler from the hardware store to fill the slots, lots of sanding to get it smooth. Then put 3 coats of polyurethane on it... glossy. I let the 3rd coat harden for a week before I put it back together to play it. Fortunately I was out of town for that week so I wasn't tempted to shorten the drying time. I'm using roundwounds on it now and haven't noticed any wear. Send me a PM if you want more details. I can email pics, too.
Members RobRoy Posted November 14, 2005 Members Posted November 14, 2005 Could someone explain this whole thing to me? When I wanted a fretless, I went out and bought one. I never really gave any thought to turning my car into a motorcycle either. I
Members Sixgun77 Posted November 15, 2005 Members Posted November 15, 2005 Originally posted by RobRoy Could someone explain this whole thing to me? When I wanted a fretless, I went out and bought one. I never really gave any thought to turning my car into a motorcycle either. I
Members RobRoy Posted November 15, 2005 Members Posted November 15, 2005 Originally posted by Sixgun77 How about this? The only neck I find comfy to play is on the 51 P and the Bullet bass, neither of which ever came fretless, let alone fretless all maple neck. They also don't come with an EMG CS for endless low and mid with a flat top end, or heavy flats. Until I have several grand for a (Fender)custom shop bass, modding it is. I'm sure as hell not going to go to some boutique builder who showcases everything on the site as 5 string basses with multiple pickups and 5 knobs. Gimmie the Fender with a vol and tone, 4 strings and the right neck and pickup. I'll skip the frills and just stick to what I need to get the job done. Makes sense. Is it possible to get a fretless neck and bolt it on?
Members kcrichard Posted November 15, 2005 Members Posted November 15, 2005 Originally posted by RobRoy Could someone explain this whole thing to me? When I wanted a fretless, I went out and bought one. I never really gave any thought to turning my car into a motorcycle either. I
Members RobRoy Posted November 15, 2005 Members Posted November 15, 2005 Originally posted by kcrichard I did it because I enjoy working on guitars, and being able to say "I did it myself." I'm fairly accomplished in woodworking and finishing, and I wouldn't recommend taking on this kind of project to someone who doesn't have some skills. Or a desire to learn. Thanks. That actually makes a lot of sense to me. And you end up with something truly unique.
Members Sixgun77 Posted November 15, 2005 Members Posted November 15, 2005 Originally posted by RobRoy Makes sense. Is it possible to get a fretless neck and bolt it on? Fender doesn't make that particular neck fretless. They also don't sell that neck seperately unless it's a warranteed replacement item. Warmoth only makes 1 neck shape and 1 fingerboard radius for bass, though they have 2 or 3 nut widths. Benevente would TRY to make the neck for me, but it would cost more than buying a 51 P RI and defretting it. I think the neck is the same nut width as a Telecaster, the "Thick C" or "Vintage C" shape with a 7.25 fingerboard radius and a Telecaster headstock. There are some other things about it too but I forget right now. Besides, I've discovered that I have a far easier time working on necks than bodies. Tomorrow I'm ordering abalone for fret marker inlay.
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