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Kindness


Kindness

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Kindness: I was wondering about that 2nd to last pic showing the 2nd fret fully filed just before crowning.

 

Why do you think that fret was so high?

That appeared to me to be excessive. Assuming the wood is failry flat, and the frets are at least within .005" tolerance, I don't get why that could be so far out.

 

Also: Could you give a little more detail about the crown file? I'm sure most people know about flat files, but I for one, have never seen a crown file.

 

Lastly, bmprs for a "almost a sticky thread." :thu:

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Also: Could you give a little more detail about the crown file? I'm sure most people know about flat files, but I for one, have never seen a crown file.

 

 

It is basically just a concave file. The one I have is a diamond coated concave file. It works the top of the fret into a convex "crowned" shape. I can't think of much more to say. It is pretty straight forward, but it is a specialty tool.

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nice thread.

 

I have a couple of questions for you.

 

I have a new Geddy Lee Jazz. The neck is set up Pretty good by your standards in this thread and to my liking in general. it isnt flat like my Ric, the bow is very slight.

 

I was looking it over last night because my E string is really booming and thought the P/U was high. it is actually the saddle. the A & D strings are higher on the saddle height adjustment screws and the E is lower on one side of the saddle. the G is also lower on height about the same as E.

 

I will even out the E saddle but should I lower the A&D or Raise the E & G saddles.

 

Intonation is pretty close on the Korg meter I have.

 

when setting intonation if the 12 fret fretted E is sharp which way do I move the saddle forward or Back and I guess its the opposite if the note is flat .....

 

thanks for any help...

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As far as crowning tools, the one I use is the offset file. I used several different files and liked that the best. It was also recommended by my instructor. It is expensive, but it works well, does not load up and minimizes chatter. The link is above.

 

If you are asking about the flat file, I have no idea where mine came from. I did recently go to Home Depot to look at what types of files they had to answer the question if it came up. They had some decent flat, single-cut, mill files. I use one that has about 9" of cutting surface, though if you can get one longer that is still relatively flat, that would be great. The reason I use a single cut is so I don't take too much material off too quickly. It takes more strokes to level, but you maintain a lot of control.

 

Does that make sense? I'll look for a link online and post it here when I find a decent one:

no ideas about the quality of this one, but something like this - http://www.amazon.com/General-Purpose-Single-Mill-File/dp/B000BHQ844

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Yes, I have one of those 6" files. They are nice. My personal file leave slightly less chatter, so I prefer it, but you would do very well with one of those files. The thing is, you can get a perfectly good file for $5-$10 if you know what you need. Stew Mac is perfect for getting things you can't find anywhere else, but it is costly for staple items like files.

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Yes, I have one of those 6" files. They are nice. My personal file leave slightly less chatter, so I prefer it, but you would do very well with one of those files. The thing is, you can get a perfectly good file for $5-$10 if you know what you need. Stew Mac is perfect for getting things you can't find anywhere else, but it is costly for staple items like files.

 

 

So a regular single cut file from the local hardware store would do then? I want the maximum amount of control for this as it's my first time and I don't want to ruin my SB2:eek:. I thought those wood block files looked comfortable to use as well. Doesn't matter though as long as I get the right took to get the job done.

 

 

Dan

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Right. You got it. If you (or anyone else reading) is unsure about the file, go into a hardware store you know you will get good service and explain that you need a file that is 1 - flat (in order to level) 2 - single cut (to not work the frets to quickly) and 3 - has mill teeth/grooves (to minimize chatter). They should be able to hook you up. If they can't, get the StewMac file you posted the link to.

 

You will be able to do this. Just take your time and if you need help, PM me and I'll send you my phone number. I'll talk you through it.

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Kindness,


Do you have any specific thoughts on crowning and fret leveling new necks, and in particular Warmoth compound radius guitar necks?

 

 

Warmoth doesn't do it themselves, which means you should.

 

As for compound radius necks, you simply have to be careful not to file away the compound radius (unless you want it gone). This is a good reason to use a small hand file instead of a leveling tool that spans the entire neck.

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Warmoth doesn't do it themselves, which means you should.


As for compound radius necks, you simply have to be careful not to file away the compound radius (unless you want it gone). This is a good reason to use a small hand file instead of a leveling tool that spans the entire neck.

 

Perfect.

 

I'll look into ordering up some tools then...THANKS!

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