Members ezstep Posted August 29, 2007 Members Share Posted August 29, 2007 Loud clicking? Most likely the battery, especially if you can jump it from another car. It will hold a partial charge, not enough to turn the motor, but enough to make contact. Test the battery first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mudbass Posted August 29, 2007 Members Share Posted August 29, 2007 You've got dirty connectors on your battery cables. Corrosion has built up to the point where the connectors won't allow enough current to pass to run the starter. Even a jump won't help when they're in this condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Decker Posted August 29, 2007 Members Share Posted August 29, 2007 I second the guy who said try whacking the starter with a hammer. I had the same problem with a Jeep Grand Cherokee. It turned out to be the starter. Sometimes whacking it will get it to start. THis is not a solution, you will still need to replace it, but it might get you to the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Trauma_Luna Posted August 29, 2007 Members Share Posted August 29, 2007 maybe the door is not working good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 29, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 I used to do this for a living. The fast click is the starter solenoid engaging and releasing. This is usually caused by a weak battery, or by a failing starter motor. The history (sitting unused for long periods) and the shutting off with foot off the gas point to a weak battery. Batteries discharge over time. And if the battery voltage is low, even if you get the car to start, the voltage may not be high enough for the electronics to work properly, or the fuel pump to supply sufficient pressure. Either will cause a stall when you let off the gas, which lowers the alternator output to the point where only the battery is providing power. Additionally, if the battery is more than a few years old and is discharged, there's little chance of it holding a charge very long, so it will need to be replaced anyway. I'd get that done, and see if you can then start the car and get it to a garage to be checked thoroughly. Alternatively, if your present car has a similar battery type (terminals in same location and polarity location) swap that one to see if it solves the problem until you get it to a garage. Then leave that battery in there and get a new one for your "keeper" car. No point in buying a new battery and giving it away when you sell the junker, if you can help it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cortfan Posted August 29, 2007 Members Share Posted August 29, 2007 I agree with Craigv, and also check the battery cables, both positive and negative at both ends. Sell it on ebay or craiglist. CarMax will give you peanuts. I'll bet the car has the original battery in it. If it does, it is def. shot. Look on the dash and see if you see a faint yellow batt warning light glowing. I'm almost sure its the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tylytle Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 I can come get the car, fix it and return it to you.... I promise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mudbass Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 I used to do this for a living.The fast click is the starter solenoid engaging and releasing. This is usually caused by a weak battery, or by a failing starter motor. The history (sitting unused for long periods) and the shutting off with foot off the gas point to a weak battery. Batteries discharge over time. And if the battery voltage is low, even if you get the car to start, the voltage may not be high enough for the electronics to work properly, or the fuel pump to supply sufficient pressure. Either will cause a stall when you let off the gas, which lowers the alternator output to the point where only the battery is providing power.Additionally, if the battery is more than a few years old and is discharged, there's little chance of it holding a charge very long, so it will need to be replaced anyway. I'd get that done, and see if you can then start the car and get it to a garage to be checked thoroughly.Alternatively, if your present car has a similar battery type (terminals in same location and polarity location) swap that one to see if it solves the problem until you get it to a garage. Then leave that battery in there and get a new one for your "keeper" car. No point in buying a new battery and giving it away when you sell the junker, if you can help it. Everything you said is true, but when it won't crank over even with a jump it ain't the battery, or at least, the battery isn't the only problem. It's either the cables or the starter is kaput. Check the cheapest thing first. The cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted August 30, 2007 Author Moderators Share Posted August 30, 2007 Everything you said is true, but when it won't crank over even with a jump it ain't the battery, or at least, the battery isn't the only problem. It's either the cables or the starter is kaput. Check the cheapest thing first. The cables. Do I clean the cables or replace them and the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gruntollio Bass Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 Push it down a hill and set fire to it and claim the insurance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 30, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 Everything you said is true, but when it won't crank over even with a jump it ain't the battery, or at least, the battery isn't the only problem. It's either the cables or the starter is kaput. Check the cheapest thing first. The cables. Oh it can still be the battery. Especially with older sulfated batteries, and el-cheapo thin jumper cables (you really need 2AWG all-copper jumper cables), there's simply not enough current capacity to either recharge the old battery or to crank the engine via the good battery's power, and the old battery will put a substantial load on the good car's system. It is imperative that the battery be verified good, and follow along from there. There may definitely be multiple problems...old battery fails because it wasn't being charged while sitting unused, but the alternator wasn't charging fully...bad cables reduced voltage to the starter, so current was excessive and the starter suffered heat damage, etc etc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 30, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 Do I clean the cables or replace them and the battery? If you're close to a garage, just get it there and let the mechanic diagnose the problem. A battery can be verified good or bad in 5 minutes, and any other problems can be found usually within a half hour's time. Worth the cost of the tow to not have to guess and throw good money after bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ezstep Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 ...old battery fails because it wasn't being charged while sitting unused....My father has Alzheimers. He has allowed his 2002 Toyota Tundra to sit (Mom won't let him drive, and she is "scared" to drive his truck) long enough that is has completely discharged his battery...twice. It can happen, even with a good battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members misterhinkydink Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 Oh it can still be the battery. Especially with older sulfated batteries, and el-cheapo thin jumper cables (you really need 2AWG all-copper jumper cables), there's simply not enough current capacity to either recharge the old battery or to crank the engine via the good battery's power, and the old battery will put a substantial load on the good car's system. It is imperative that the battery be verified good, and follow along from there. There may definitely be multiple problems...old battery fails because it wasn't being charged while sitting unused, but the alternator wasn't charging fully...bad cables reduced voltage to the starter, so current was excessive and the starter suffered heat damage, etc etc.... +1 Yep!!!! :thu::thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 30, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 My father has Alzheimers. He has allowed his 2002 Toyota Tundra to sit (Mom won't let him drive, and she is "scared" to drive his truck) long enough that is has completely discharged his battery...twice. It can happen, even with a good battery. Yes. Here's the deal with conventional lead-acid batteries; there are charging, and deep-cycle (and some "dual-service" that basically suck at either task). Cars will always have starting-optimized batteries. They can last for many years if they are kept at or very close to a full-charge state. They will always self-discharge about 10% per month of disuse, if not maintained on a charger. Unfortunately, they also have very little ability to return to a full-charge state if they've been discharged more than about 70%. You may get one or two full discharge/recharge cycles out of them, but always at reduced capacity. A deep-cycle battery can handle up to 700 discharge/recharge cycles, but the tradeoff is that they can't deliver the high-current levels demanded for starting without some damage to their plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members James Hart Posted August 30, 2007 Members Share Posted August 30, 2007 The clicking is because the starter is acting like a buzzer. There's enough battery capacity to throw the drive out but as soon as current is applied to the starter motor the voltage collapses and the drive pulls in. Repeat until done. If the car has been sitting for many months with a dead battery (especially over the winter; if a battery freezes it's a goner), it's probably sulfated in at least one cell. Throw a new battery in and it'll be fine. my guess.... pull the battery and hit walmart/parts chain for a cheap replacement (bring old or get hit with a core charge). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted August 31, 2007 Members Share Posted August 31, 2007 Sounds like the starter. yes ..the power for a starter is nearly right on the battery capacity as well..100Ah and check the solenoid starter earths...grounds if necessary undo and clean with a smooth file the connecting terminals..and vaseline them afterwards..battery under load can do some funny things..cells give up and what is a good connection for the horn and lights just doesnt transmit the power for a clean spin on the bendix or pre engaged wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mudbass Posted August 31, 2007 Members Share Posted August 31, 2007 Do I clean the cables or replace them and the battery? http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Servic_a_Car_Battery-Battery-F2225.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hawkhuff Posted August 31, 2007 Members Share Posted August 31, 2007 Sounds like the starter. I too would go with starter because that clicking you hear is probably the solenoid spinning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted August 31, 2007 Members Share Posted August 31, 2007 I too would go with starter because that clicking you hear is probably the solenoid spinning. if there isnt sufficient centrifugal force the bendix wont throw the gear into the starting ring... i am not clued up on pre engaged starters.. but to get a starter to work clean you need a really good belt of 12V to ground to get things moving other items are grease or oil on the bendix splines...clean in petrol..gas and the starter ring having some faults on the teeth.. sometimes moving the car in gear to rotate the ring then starting works as the faulty/missing teeth are taken away from the area of the starter engagement once the ring is up and spinnning the faults arent a problem.. bump start..any good..use second gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members misterhinkydink Posted August 31, 2007 Members Share Posted August 31, 2007 I too would go with starter because that clicking you hear is probably the solenoid spinning. Solenoids move longitudinally, they don't spin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted September 1, 2007 Members Share Posted September 1, 2007 Solenoids move longitudinally, they don't spin. i think the spin is to get the bendix feeding outwards on the splines...the outward movement then engages...you need the spin firstthen the linear movement... do you know anything about pre engaged starters..they seem to be the modern trend...my mechanical skills and observations go back too far and i stopped fixing cars in 1999 oops on reflection you are absolutely right...the solenoid makes the high current connection to the starter which then spins the bendix....so its solenoid energized, contact, starter spin, bendix out on splines, engage, spin starter ring gear.....and away we go...or maybe not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lokidecat Posted September 1, 2007 Members Share Posted September 1, 2007 Do you have a pre-amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted September 1, 2007 Members Share Posted September 1, 2007 Do you have a pre-amp? yes but it doesnt hang quite so low as my two main amps..not nowadays anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Onkel Bob Posted September 1, 2007 Members Share Posted September 1, 2007 Just build it into a killer amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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