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Bass cab help.....


zoso411

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I am trying to understand exactly what cab I should buy for my Peavey Max 450 head.

 

Here are the specs....

 

Compact top box design

450 Watts at 2 Ohms

300 Watts at 4 Ohms

170 Watts at 8 Ohms

3-band active EQ with shiftable mid-range control

Contour control

10 dB pad switch (active/passive pickup switch)

Buffered tuner send jack

Footswitchable post-EQ effects loop

Electronically balanced XLR jack

Pre-/Post-EQ send switch for XLR jack

Ground lift switch for XLR jack

DDT

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450 Watts at 2 Ohms

300 Watts at 4 Ohms

170 Watts at 8 Ohms


I am under the assumption, that if the BR410 is rated at 8ohms (that is what it says in the specs for the cab), then the head will only send 170 watts. Is this the case? In that event, what cab would be recommended?

 

 

Based on the specs you have provided, yes your amp will send 170 watts to an 8 ohm cab.

 

If you wanted to get maximum wattage out of your head, you would want to get a 2 ohm cab (which I'm not too sure they regularly make...if at all), (2) 4 ohm cabs, or (4) 8 ohm cabs.

 

As far as what cab to get: That totally depends on your price range, what type of music your playing, how much weight you want to lug around, how many speakers, what size speakers. Fill in some blanks and we'll recommend a few winners.

 

I'm generally not a fan of Carvin gear, since you can't try it out before you buy it...but they do have good prices. In that price range, I'd look at Dr. Bass or Avatar for new stuff...and just about anything else for used stuff. Heck, you can get an Aguilar at that price if you look hard enough...

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In nearly every instance, the best solution is a single cabinet that is large/loud enough to cover your volume needs and keeps your load at 4 ohms or 8 ohms. If the cabinet is on the small side, it is better to get it at 8 ohms so you can add another if needed.

 

Your amp puts out plenty of power to cover most reasonable volume needs with an efficient cabinet. Heck, on Monday I buried a drummer and guitarist with an 85 watt amp into a single 1x15 + 1x8 cabinet.

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I play in an experimental rock/metal band. I play a lot of harmonies and try to compensate for only having one guitar player, especially during lead parts.

 

I have read that in order to achieve the best tone out of a cab, you need to have the ohms matched where enough power is making it to the speakers. I was unsure about the 4x10 carvin cab, because if it is rated @ 800 watts, I thought 170 watts would not be enough to push it.

 

In that case, would a 4 ohm 2x10 cab be more efficient? Mainly this one:

 

http://www.carvin.com/products/group.php?CID=BRX

 

The head would send 300 watts, to a 600 watt cab, thus creating more low end. Am I correct in assuming this?

 

I hope I am not being confusing, I just really don't understandall of this!

 

Thank you guys so much!

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400.00 currently, as I need a cab asap for upcoming gigs. I had been using a 4x10 Hartke "transporter", but it was a friends, and he of course needs to use it now. The Hartke just sounded weak, and I am pretty sure it is an 8 ohm cab.

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I play in an experimental rock/metal band. I play a lot of harmonies and try to compensate for only having one guitar player, especially during lead parts.


I have read that in order to achieve the best tone out of a cab, you need to have the ohms matched where enough power is making it to the speakers. I was unsure about the 4x10 carvin cab, because if it is rated @ 800 watts, I thought 170 watts would not be enough to push it.

 

 

The manufacturer's rated thermal handling has no bearing on efficiency. In fact, most often, it has very little bearing on anything worthwhile.

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Avatar 212 is 299, 410 is 379, both are neo (lightweight) drivers. And both will probably bury the carvin. I prefer the vintagey thump of the 410, some guys prefer the mid-forward sound of the 212 (which it sounds like you may like), but you really can't go wrong with either box. Get one in 4 ohms, and go rock.

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You want to get down to the lower ohms if you can. It means more volume. A small increase but it's something.

 

I do the same thing with my PV Firebass amp

 

To get to 4 ohms, you could use a single 4 ohm 410, or dual 8 ohm 210 cabs.

 

To get to 2 ohms you could use dual 4 ohm 210s, or one 4 ohm 210 and a 4 ohm 15.

 

The nice thing about using 2 smaller 4 ohm cabs is they are easier to move and you can use just one if that's all you need.

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Personally I feel a more traditional setup like a 2x10" + 1x15" short stack would work for your current needs within the context of your role in the band, as well as allow you to intimately work with the cabs separately to learn their individual characteristics. You'd also be able to leave one behind when you want to travel light. Two smaller cabs are also MUCH easier to load in/out at 4:30AM when your dead tired after pounding out a rockin' show.

With your tight budget, I'd be looking at Avatar speakers.

Another option would be a pair of 12" drivers...either in separate cabs(two 1x12" cabs) or in one bigger cab(2x12"). Two 1x12" cabs would be even more compact than the more traditional 2x10"+1x15" setup, but wouldn't offer you anywhere near as much variety.

A happy medium would be a 2x10" with a 1x12".

Whatever you choose, I'd get 'em in 8 ohm versions for maximum flexibility.

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Why not 4 ohm cabs? His amp goes to 2 ohms. And more power is... more power...

 

 

Long term flexibility and the fact that due to the logarithmic nature of power ratings and the effects of power compression, the difference in volume between the power output at 4 ohms and 2 ohms will be negligible.

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...if he really REALLY liked tens and absolutely despised other driver sizes. At this point, I'd recommend a 2x10 and either a 1x15 or 1x12.

 

Obviously I REALLY like tens. :D Although maybe if I played onstage rather than in a garage band, in the garage, I might like a bit more bottom. Maybe two twelves... I briefly had a Nemesis 2x12 combo that sounded like butter, but it crapped out on me and I took it back to the store.

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