Members Azz301 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 So I'm thinking about building a soundproof studio in my backyard. I live in a suburban area, and the neighbours aren't very tolerant. I did a bit of reading about soundproofing and some places throw around the term 'Sound Adsorption' instead. One mate of mine said "forget all that stuff - fill your walls with sand instead!" Did I not read about this because its a bit hard to charge alot of money for sand (especially when i live near coastal Australia!) or do these materials actually warrant the high cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 You're going to have to fill the walls AND ceiling with sand to keep a standalone structure from letting sound out. Then put on a tile roof. It's mega expensive to make a structure soundproof to the outside world. Everything vibrates to some degree; you're going to need to use cinderblocks for the exterior walls, not have windows or ventilation and have an iron door, filled with sand. Anything that's wood will transmit sound.Best of luck...C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ec437 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 You're going to have to fill the walls AND ceiling with sand to keep a standalone structure from letting sound out. Then put on a tile roof. It's mega expensive to make a structure soundproof to the outside world. Everything vibrates to some degree; you're going to need to use cinderblocks for the exterior walls, not have windows or ventilation and have an iron door, filled with sand. Anything that's wood will transmit sound. Best of luck... C7 Vacuums don't vibrate! He just needs to practice in a giant thermos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Perfessor Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 A wood fence and bushes will help some. I've read up on sound dispersion for industry and walls can deflect sound up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members T. Alan Smith Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 You're going to have to fill the walls AND ceiling with sand to keep a standalone structure from letting sound out. Then put on a tile roof.It's mega expensive to make a structure soundproof to the outside world. Everything vibrates to some degree; you're going to need to use cinderblocks for the exterior walls, not have windows or ventilation and have an iron door, filled with sand. Anything that's wood will transmit sound.Best of luck...C7 What HE said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hawkhuff Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 I don't intend to be picky here but isn't it sound absorbtion? You can go a long way to reducing the noise by using sound proof tiles or foam that you put on the walls and ceilings. That would cost far less than sand in the walls, assuming the walls would hold it. Of course, you could always hang up a few hundred Fender bass necks. That would do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Roguetitan Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 you will not be able to totally sound proof the building but you can make it quiet enough to keep the neighbors from blowing a gasket you can also build a large rehearsal room/sound booth inside the building that will deflect even more sound which will help to keep the sound contained within the main structure. I can get it pretty dayum loud in my studio and you don't hear too much outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted October 29, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted October 29, 2007 If you go the sand route, be very careful about the sand you use. It needs to be really dry, and should be treated for insect infestation before you pour it in. Otherwise, you've just set up the perfect environment for mildew, rot and bugs. Or you could make the best of it....install plexi walls and have the world's largest ant farm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gspointer Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 you might consider using 2x6 plates so you can stagger your studs, inside wall can be attached to studs flushed to the inside of the plates, outside wall studs flushed to the outside of the plates. This would create a PIA for insulation, as I dont think is any insulation made to fit in an 8" space. I would probably use blow in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassman1956 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 If you go the sand route, be very careful about the sand you use. It needs to be really dry, and should be treated for insect infestation before you pour it in. Otherwise, you've just set up the perfect environment for mildew, rot and bugs. Or you could make the best of it....install plexi walls and have the world's largest ant farm. THIS I gotta see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Poltergeist Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 why dont you make a bullet-proof one? with such neighbours, i would for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Poltergeist Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 do you know what a band, friends of mine did? they glued egg boxes to the whole walls and ceiling.... gotta say its not sand, but works pretty well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members T. Alan Smith Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 Pro studios handle "absorption" by building a floating room within a room, decoupling the inner room from the outer room. In the process, thick walls are constructed with air gaps to 'hold' what sound seeps out before hitting the other thick wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members T. Alan Smith Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 do you know what a band, friends of mine did?they glued egg boxes to the whole walls and ceiling.... gotta say its not sand, but works pretty well... Sounds serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Poltergeist Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 im being serious... it looks ridiculous, but they couldnt afford anything else, and they have this big supermarket near them, so it was easy for them to get them for free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ec437 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 do you know what a band, friends of mine did?they glued egg boxes to the whole walls and ceiling.... gotta say its not sand, but works pretty well... Huge fire hazard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jackcheez Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 you will not be able to totally sound proof the building but you can make it quiet enough to keep the neighbors from blowing a gasket There are many ways to cut it down to a reasonable level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lug Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 I don't see the problem. When I started playing, all the neighbors chipped in and bought me a sound-proof room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Poltergeist Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 I don't see the problem. When I started playing, all the neighbors chipped in and bought me a sound-proof room. you mean... like.... reallly? :poke: :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted October 29, 2007 CMS Author Share Posted October 29, 2007 you might consider using 2x6 plates so you can stagger your studs, inside wall can be attached to studs flushed to the inside of the plates, outside wall studs flushed to the outside of the plates. This would create a PIA for insulation, as I dont think is any insulation made to fit in an 8" space. I would probably use blow in. A typical insulation arrangement would be to run R-13 (3-1/2") batts horizontally woven through the spaces. MAJOR pita. These contructions also typically call for using double layers of 5/8" drywall. Further enhancement would be to mount the drywall with metal spring clips. Again, another PITA especially with doubled layers. However if windows are not installed, the resulting room is very quiet, without resorting to exotic techniques. Still costs a bundle and takes at least twice as long to build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ModmanQ6 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 Hi Azz, This is what I do for a living. Sound "proofing" requires mass to stop the sound, especially low frequencies which have very long waveforms. Your friend's suggestion about sand would work very well as a sound proofer, high mass and very low transmission properties, but as stated above could lead to other problems. Mass and vibration isolation or decoupling work well for this. Foams don't block sound, but provide absorption and can stop reflections inside the room, while the egg carton theory is actually breaking up the flat reflections and diffusing them so you don't get slap echoes. We have different products like mass loaded vinyl (barrier) which is applied to the studs of your wall prior to putting up the sheetrock/drywall. The edges of this and all seams should be caulked with a flexible, non hardening caulk. Depending on the level of sound proofing, you could just put drywall over this, or use isolation clips to float the wall, or use a damping compound between multiple layers to reduce the vibration transfer. Check out the link in my sig for a lot of good information you can read up on yourself. Let me know if you would like to chat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ec437 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 Hi Azz, This is what I do for a living. Sound "proofing" requires mass to stop the sound, especially low frequencies which have very long waveforms. Your friend's suggestion about sand would work very well as a sound proofer, high mass and very low transmission properties, but as stated above could lead to other problems. Mass and vibration isolation or decoupling work well for this. Foams don't block sound, but provide absorption and can stop reflections inside the room, while the egg carton theory is actually breaking up the flat reflections and diffusing them so you don't get slap echoes. We have different products like mass loaded vinyl (barrier) which is applied to the studs of your wall prior to putting up the sheetrock/drywall. The edges of this and all seams should be caulked with a flexible, non hardening caulk. Depending on the level of sound proofing, you could just put drywall over this, or use isolation clips to float the wall, or use a damping compound between multiple layers to reduce the vibration transfer. Check out the link in my sig for a lot of good information you can read up on yourself. Let me know if you would like to chat... Hey, that's pretty cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ModmanQ6 Posted October 29, 2007 Members Share Posted October 29, 2007 Another thing to be aware of, a 1% opening will cause you to lose 50% of your soundproofing. This makes caulking your seams and sealing doorways extremely important. As far as doors themselves go, try for a solid wood door or heavy steel door. In the absence of these, you could add plywood or mdf to a door - and even more effectively, use a damping compound like Green Glue between the door and the mass layer. If you are worried about ventilation, you can vent with ductwork and try to get 2 - 90 degree bends in it and line them with a thin foam to kill the reflections. Sound doesn't go around corners - it has to bounce and if you remove the bouncy surface, only air passes while the sound stays behind... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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