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how to tighten low C string on Jazz Bass?


FloydianAnimal

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Hey guys, so I have my MIA Jazz strung .115 .95 .70 .50 and tuned to Drop C so CGCF low to high. It feels pretty good overall but the C string still seems kind of loose, even with heavy strings like that on there. I can't seem to set it up to be tight. Any suggestions on what I can do? Also, my P Bass is set up in Drop C as well but the low C on that one seems tighter- and that bass has smaller low strings on it too: .110 .90 .75 .55. :idk:

 

One thing I noticed is the low C on my Jazz doesn't fit super well into the nut- would that make a difference? Also, the P bass has a Badass bridge on it- would a Badass on my Jazz make the low C tighter? I have the action set up moderately high on the Jazz and the low C saddle is back pretty far. Not sure what would work really; maybe I need an even heavier low C for the Jazz? :confused:

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i play standard-scale 4-string basses tuned CGCF and have found that for my money, it's worth a few extra bucks to get a 5-string set and just toss the E string out. string the bass (low to high) BADG and then tune CGCF.

 

maybe it's perception, maybe it's just placebo effect, but it seems to me that with the B string on there instead of the E, it feels tighter. you might have to adjust your action and/or file out your nut a little bit, but neither of those things are difficult.

 

as always, YMMV.

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i play standard-scale 4-string basses tuned CGCF and have found that for my money, it's worth a few extra bucks to get a 5-string set and just toss the E string out. string the bass (low to high) BADG and then tune CGCF.


maybe it's perception, maybe it's just placebo effect, but it seems to me that with the B string on there instead of the E, it feels tighter. you might have to adjust your action and/or file out your nut a little bit, but neither of those things are difficult.


as always, YMMV.

I read the original post wrong. Thought he was already doing this. There's no way I'd tune an E string to C. Makes more sense to tune a B up to C.

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I read the original post wrong. Thought he was already doing this.


There's no way I'd tune an E string to C. Makes more sense to tune a B up to C.

 

 

i just assumed that the gauges he listed were for a standard (though slightly heavy) 4-string set. my b strings are 130's so...

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Try DR lo-riders. They have a higher tension than normal strings. Really nice too!

 

 

I actually bought two sets of them off ebay yesterday, (Extra Heavy) for my L2K which will arrive in a week or two. Mainly because because of your reccomendation, actually. They weren't too pricey off ebay either, around $25. Here in the shops in Norway they are more than $100 per set, go figure....

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They weren't too pricey off ebay either, around $25. Here in the shops in Norway they are more than $100 per set, go figure....

 

That's about what they are for a 4 string set here. $100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's {censored}ing insane! For strings!!! :freak:

 

Let me know how you like them. I know you're a Rotosound guy...as was I for my ATT-LTD II, but they just always felt weird. The DR's are much more consistent. They also don't have a weird feeling out of the box...

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That's about what they are for a 4 string set here. $100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's {censored}ing insane! For strings!!!
:freak:

Let me know how you like them. I know you're a Rotosound guy...as was I for my ATT-LTD II, but they just always felt weird. The DR's are much more consistent. They also don't have a weird feeling out of the box...

 

I'll definately let you know how I like them. I guess they at least work well for slap, and that they are bright and with lots of low-end. Should work very well for the G&L, and I might even use them on my ATT-LTD II too.

 

I'll post a short review of both the bass and the strings when I get everything. The bass is being sent today, as are the strings.

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Well, since there are more stupid answers in this thread than most -

 

Several things have to be pretty damned rigid to keep strings from flopping; namely headstock, neck, neck-to-body joint and bridge. Any one of these could be wiggling around a little and causing your floppy B-string.

 

If you made a 34" bass out of concrete the B string would be tight as hell. There are several manufacturers that make 5- and 6-string basses that don't have a floppy B string. My SR406's B is damn near as tight as my US Lakland's and the Ibanez has one extra string ;)

 

Don't listen to the morons. Something on your bass is moving around - all you have to do is find and fix it.

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i play standard-scale 4-string basses tuned CGCF and have found that for my money, it's worth a few extra bucks to get a 5-string set and just toss the E string out. string the bass (low to high) BADG and then tune CGCF.


maybe it's perception, maybe it's just placebo effect, but it seems to me that with the B string on there instead of the E, it feels tighter. you might have to adjust your action and/or file out your nut a little bit, but neither of those things are difficult.


as always, YMMV.

:thu:

 

It IS higher tension. This is the way to go.

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Okay, for my real answer:

 

I have the action set up moderately high on the Jazz and the low C saddle is back pretty far. Not sure what would work really; maybe I need an even heavier low C for the Jazz?
:confused:

 

Are they the same brand strings for each bass? There are many things about string construction other than gauge that affect the tautness/stiffness of the string. For example, very generally speaking, if your P bass has flats and the J has rounds, I'd expect the P to feel stiffer.

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That's why Fender went back to the 4+1 headstock and everybody else learned their lesson before they went into production. The original 5-in line Fender headstocks moved around terribly.

 

 

By move, do you mean flex (which of course is movement, I'm just trying to visualize this)?

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