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Mango Bass Project


Brother Mango

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those inlays are gonna look sweet!

 

 

Thanks for the encouragement.

 

But this is one part that truly worries me. I was trying to get the glass flush with the fretboard, and kept routing down deeper & deeper then started to worry about digging into & past the trussrod, out the bottom of the neck, and thru my floor into the 5th-floor neighbor's apartment.

 

To prevent that, I had to start thinning the piece of glass. DAMN! Grinding glass is SLOW! Grinding tiny pieces of glass is FRIGHTENING! The dremel snatched one of my gloves off and I had to cut the glove off of the bit because the glove was wound so tight.

 

Since then, I've been using a spring-loaded clamp to hold the glass. That's only partially helpful because the glass is so darned small. So, my fingers can't get too far away and still control the shaping of the glass.

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Seems that the best way to make the inlay flush is to make the glass BELOW the surface of the fretboard, and then use epoxy to not only glue the glass down, but also to fill in the rest of the hole.

There are questions here that you all may be able to answer. Is it going to be easy to sand the epoxy & make it flush? Will sanding make the epoxy look all scratched up? Will the epoxy yellow over time and look horrible?


IM000249.jpg

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that fret inlay looks really neat.. also seems like a lot of work


you going to do anything special for the 12th fret inlay or something?

 

 

Yes. I'm still thinking about the 12th fret. This is so weird because it's definitely a lot of work, and I've got to be seriously committed to a single idea once it's started. If I put 4 hours into shaping glass for my initials, then decide on a dragonfly silhouette, the 4 hours of work can't be parlayed into the new idea. I'd have to get a new chunk of glass and start all over again.

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i suppose it could? but as long as you clean i doubt there be a problem?


where you fret mite scratch the glass/epoxy


how many you doing?

 

 

I don't know how many inlays I might do. Even if I had all the time & patience neccesary, it doesn't seem to be very healthy to do all that much dremel work in a single session. It's cool while the work is going on for 2 - 4 hours, but it's scary to have my hands tingling/vibrating for an hour after I've stopped.

 

Anyone experienced with this? Are there any attachments or techniques for reducing the vibration?

 

There are 9 total dots on the fretboard. Shaping the glass and routing the hole in the fretboard ... HOURS of work for each one.

 

Gotta come up with a strategy. Can't just plow through this one.

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I don't know how many inlays I might do. Even if I had all the time & patience neccesary, it doesn't seem to be very healthy to do all that much dremel work in a single session. It's cool while the work is going on for 2 - 4 hours, but it's scary to have my hands tingling/vibrating for an hour after I've stopped.


Anyone experienced with this? Are there any attachments or techniques for reducing the vibration?


There are 9 total dots on the fretboard. Shaping the glass and routing the hole in the fretboard ... HOURS of work for each one.


Gotta come up with a strategy. Can't just plow through this one.

 

 

L-1329 worth looking into,

 

you want to make sure i think it called white finger when vibration kills of nerve ending in your fingers, were gloves that prevent it getting thru, and possibly dn't do it for 4 hours straight if thats wat you do? or do you take breaks every like half hour?

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That's an interesting idea. Let me check that ...


THANKS!

 

 

You know, there are companies that do laser etching/cutting too. They are computer controlled and could probably cut out any design you could draw up in glass, if you wanted some really cool glass inlays like the dragonfly. There's one shop up near our airport in Waukegan that I know of, but I'm sure there's probably other's closer to you.

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L-1329 worth looking into,


you want to make sure i think it called white finger when vibration kills of nerve ending in your fingers, were gloves that prevent it getting thru, and possibly dn't do it for 4 hours straight if thats wat you do? or do you take breaks every like half hour?

 

 

WOW! It's actually got a name.

 

Vibration White Finger

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I don't know how many inlays I might do. Even if I had all the time & patience neccesary, it doesn't seem to be very healthy to do all that much dremel work in a single session. It's cool while the work is going on for 2 - 4 hours, but it's scary to have my hands tingling/vibrating for an hour after I've stopped.


Anyone experienced with this? Are there any attachments or techniques for reducing the vibration?




mango,
what you want is called a flexshaft attachment. it's a cable attachment that goes on the end of the dremel to extend the shaft. you hang the body of the dremel on a hanger and hold the end of the flexshaft. that way you're not holding the vibrating motor the whole time you're working :thu:

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it a nasty thing someone i work with got it.


stupid question do you route with your dremmel? is it good enough for a pickup route?

 

 

It's not a stupid question at all. And maybe I can save you some money.

 

I paid $50 to use a guy's shop to route for the Kahler bridge. Also considered paying several hundred for my own plunge router.

 

Later I found out that there's a plunge router attachment for dremels and it's less than $30.

 

You get yourself some router bits, the router attachment, and go for it! Earlier in this thread you get to see part of my router attachment. I routed my battery compartment with it.

 

Short answer to your question: yes. But you do have to go slow and make several passes to get the depth you need.

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mango,

what you want is called a flexshaft attachment. it's a cable attachment that goes on the end of the dremel to extend the shaft. you hang the body of the dremel on a hanger and hold the end of the flexshaft. that way you're not holding the vibrating motor the whole time you're working
:thu:



Excellent idea! I've seen those, but never thought to use it to ward off white finger. And they aren't very expensive.

This is beautiful!!

Gonna put on my shoes and go get a flexshaft.

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It's not a stupid question at all. And maybe I can save you some money.


I paid $50 to use a guy's shop to route for the Kahler bridge. Also considered paying several hundred for my own plunge router.


Later I found out that there's a plunge router attachment for dremels and it's less than $30.


You get yourself some router bits, the router attachment, and go for it! Earlier in this thread you get to see part of my router attachment. I routed my battery compartment with it.


Short answer to your question: yes. But you do have to go slow and make several passes to get the depth you need.



wicked currently modying my stingray copy to look more like the real deal! a true sr5 already done the jack, and pickguard, and im getting the money together for a nordy 5.2 pup

Picture007.jpg

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Polymer clay

The background story:
I had been cutting sheets of plastic. That's rough! A utility knife isn't precise. The dremel melts some plastics, and makes others crumbly. And a dremel can ruin a project quickly if you cut too far or slip and make a scratch.

Ok.

I was at a crafts store and was hipped to the world of polymer clay. Shape the stuff in clay form, bake it for 30min and it's as good as plastic. It can be sanded, drilled, and dremelled.

I figured I'd try it for the battery compartment cover that I wasn't happy with.

mangobass027.jpg

The mirror effect was lost, and the plastic cracked when I put the screws in.
mangobass040.jpg
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