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Cheap replacement bridges any good?


ianlange11

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When I read about upgrading bridges, mostly on SXs, I only hear about either the Badass II or the Gotoh 201 or 206. I'm wondering if you guys think these cheaper alternatives are any good, and if so, which ones?

 

A. f5461cq9.jpg

B. b811crfd7.jpg

C. b864cree4.jpg

D. bb2cbzk1.jpg

 

"A" is made of aluminum

What do you think the other bridges are made of? Inferior metal to the BA, Gotoh? Is the string pitch good with the modern style bridges? Any info would be great. Which one out of those would you pick?

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When I read about upgrading bridges, mostly on SXs, I only hear about either the Badass II or the Gotoh 201 or 206. I'm wondering if you guys think these cheaper alternatives are any good, and if so, which ones?


A.
f5461cq9.jpg
B.
b811crfd7.jpg
C.
b864cree4.jpg
D.
bb2cbzk1.jpg

"A" is made of aluminum

What do you think the other bridges are made of? Inferior metal to the BA, Gotoh? Is the string pitch good with the modern style bridges? Any info would be great. Which one out of those would you pick?

 

D looks most dependable. If I wanted replacements, I'd hit up the Gotoh 201. :)

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Well, I've never used any of the specific bridges you show, but I did replace the bridge on my 2 SJB-75 4+1's with the chrome and black version of this: http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/BB3440010.jpg

 

I know you probably can't see it in the pic, but it's on there:

S4010356.jpg

It gets the job done quite well, IMO.

 

My philosophy is "Why pay more than I have to" and "Simple works" (my version of the KISS princieple). The badass style is so simple and straightforward it is hard to mess up, IMO. In fact it is basically just a high mass version of the fender bass bridge. Does a higher mass bridge make a difference? I think so. Not necessarily in sustain. but in tone. I would vote for "D".

 

It would be a good idea to check the string pitch if you can. My replacement bridges had a slightly wider spacing, but it was enough for me to have to replace the pickups too, becauase the B string wasn't being picked up sufficiently.

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Gotoh 201: Great bridge, nice mass, good tuning stability.

 

It will raise your action a bit, even with the saddles nearly bottomed-out. So far, I'm dealing with it fine. I may shim the neck later though.

 

The trade-off from the stock bridge is well worth it. :thu:

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Gotoh 201: Great bridge, nice mass, good tuning stability.


It
will
raise your action a bit, even with the saddles nearly bottomed-out. So far, I'm dealing with it fine. I may shim the neck later though.


The trade-off from the stock bridge is well worth it.
:thu:

 

 

I'm not picking on you, but I fail to see the logic in that way of thinking - how on earth could a replacement bridge have such an advantage that outweighs decreasing playability on your bass??? I really don't get that - after all, I have NEVER had a problem getting a stock Fender type bridge to work properly - they *sometimes* require a spot of blue locktite on the saddle height screws - and I'd have to say that some blue locktite is ALOT cheaper than a bridge - and alot easier to use... it also comes in handy for speaker mounting hardware that can shake loose...

 

 

So, what is this advantage that makes sacrificing good action a worthwhile trade-off???

 

 

 

- georgestrings

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I'm not picking on you, but I fail to



- georgestrings

 

:)

 

The Gotoh by far surpasses the flimsy pos SX stock bridge, especially in the tuning dept. I'm a stickler for tuning. :o Not to mention the horizontal saddle movement.

 

The action difference: not that much really, enough for me to tell but, like I said my saddles (e string mainly) are almost bottomed out. It may be a problem for some, I'm dealing with it fine. jus sayin'.

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:)

The Gotoh by far surpasses the flimsy pos SX stock bridge, especially in the tuning dept. I'm a stickler for tuning.
:o
Not to mention the horizontal saddle movement.


The action difference: not
that
much really, enough for me to tell but, like I said my saddles (e string mainly) are almost bottomed out. It may be a problem for some, I'm dealing with it fine. jus sayin'.

 

 

OK, just wondering - I always hear people singing the praises of "upgrading" their bridge from a stock Fender type, and I just don't get it... Honestly, I've never had a problem getting one to properly intonate, obtain and keep good saddle height adjustments, and have never had a problem with one in regards to "horizontal saddle movement" - and to sacifice the best possible action I can get by PAYING for something that "cures" non-issues for me doesn't make sense... IMO, *many* people "upgrade" their bridges because they've been conditioned to believe that it's the "in" thing to do - and don't really get any significant benefit from doing so - and in your case, it actually *sounded* like a step backwards, while getting into your pocket...

 

YMMV, but that's how I see it...

 

 

 

 

- georgestrings

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OK, just wondering - I always hear people singing the praises of "upgrading" their bridge from a stock Fender type, and I just don't get it... Honestly, I've never had a problem getting one to properly intonate, obtain and keep good saddle height adjustments, and have never had a problem with one in regards to "horizontal saddle movement" - and to sacifice the best possible action I can get by PAYING for something that "cures" non-issues for me doesn't make sense... IMO, *many* people "upgrade" their bridges because they've been conditioned to believe that it's the "in" thing to do - and don't really get any significant benefit from doing so - and in your case, it actually *sounded* like a step backwards, while getting into your pocket...


YMMV, but that's how I see it...





- georgestrings

 

The stock SX bridge is somewhat of a Fender-type. However, it's significantly wimpier in terms of it's weight and build quality compared to a Fender. The SX bridge had no saddle-screw channels to prevent side to side movement, not that I dig in that much but, they moved around regardless. Kind of a PITA if consistent string spacing is a consideration.

 

No, I didn't buy the Gotoh because "it's the cool thing to do." I mean, if I wanted to be really cool, I could have spent/wasted $40 more on a BA II.

 

The Gotoh gave me immediate improvements compared to the stocker in tone (rounder), tuning stability, and aesthetics. The minuscule difference in the action will easily be remedied if I even choose to do so.

 

:)

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I have a Gotoh 201 on my Jazz and have only one issue with it.

 

To get my action any lower, my neck will need to be shimmed. This is because the saddles are bigger and the deck is thicker on the Gotoh vs. the stock Fender bridge. My saddles are pretty much bottomed out.

 

The main reason I replaced the stock bridge was horizontal movement of the saddles.

 

Actually the last bridge pictured in the OP looks like it might be a direct replacement on an SX. My SX SPJ-62 has the 5 screws on the tail and two on the nose of the bridge.

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D. looks like what I have on my Stagg Stingray-copy. I don't know if it's the horizontal movement, but I can't keep it intonated. :mad::mad: If you move one saddle back or forth, all the other strings' intonation goes whack. Drove me nuts at an audition last night!

 

Someone please sell me a Badass or Schaller for cheap, maybe even one of those Gotoh 201's?

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