Members solderjunkie Posted November 3, 2008 Members Share Posted November 3, 2008 How many forumites have done a dowel-and-redrill? any good tips for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fretless Posted November 3, 2008 Members Share Posted November 3, 2008 you want to use a very hard wood for the dowel . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Guttermouth Posted November 3, 2008 Members Share Posted November 3, 2008 you want to use a very hard wood for the dowel . +1 and give the glue plenty of time to cure.also - a drill press makes it much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members misterhinkydink Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 and use a forstner bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Robin Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Ever think of going with inserts, for more pulling power/contact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members georgestrings Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 I have - I used golf tees to dowel and re-drill a MIM Jazz neck to fit an SX P body... I sanded the finish off the tees, drilled the holes to be a tight fit to the tees, used some quality wood glue, and drove 'em home... A day later, I cut them off, then dremeled them flush, and started the re-drilling... I've posted about the project here before - it went quite well... Please let me know if I can be of any more help... - georgestrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 I have - I used golf tees to dowel and re-drill... - georgestrings Golf tees? Brilliant!!! I have some of those, but not for golf. I use them to plug vacuum lines during auto repairs. I was going to try to find some hardwood dowels, but the home-supply stores only had soft wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Further question and concern... Two of the new holes will slightly overlap the dowelled holes. The wood I'm putting in the dowelled holes will have the grain parallel to the screw. Will the dowel crack along the grain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Perfessor Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Use epoxy glue. It will soak into the wood and be stronger than wood fibers. If you end up drilling right next to it, it won't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members georgestrings Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Golf tees?Brilliant!!! I have some of those, but not for golf. I use them to plug vacuum lines during auto repairs.I was going to try to find some hardwood dowels, but the home-supply stores only had soft wood. I got the idea from a friend who is a master carpenter - he uses them to repair stripped out holes for hinges on door frames... - georgestrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Use epoxy glue. It will soak into the wood and be stronger than wood fibers. If you end up drilling right next to it, it won't matter. Do you have a glue to recommend? I've been using Titebond for a l-o-n-g time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members georgestrings Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Further question and concern...Two of the new holes will slightly overlap the dowelled holes. The wood I'm putting in the dowelled holes will have the grain parallel to the screw.Will the dowel crack along the grain? Some of mine overlapped partially - I didn't sweat any grains being paralleled, and didn't have any troubles... I drilled the holes for that the tees were a very tight fit - applied glue to both the tees and the holes, drove 'em in - and the next day, after the glue had set up properly, that {censored} was hard as a rock.... Make sure you properly drill new pilot holes, both in diameter and depth, and put some wax on the screws before you run them in for the 1st time - and you should be good to go... - georgestrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted November 4, 2008 CMS Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 Further question and concern...Two of the new holes will slightly overlap the dowelled holes. The wood I'm putting in the dowelled holes will have the grain parallel to the screw.Will the dowel crack along the grain? If you drill the right pilot hole, which you should always do with any hardwood, you'll minimize the chance of cracking, but the dowel should be a resistance fit in the hole (not so tight as to scrape off all of the glue) and it's an almost zero chance that it would crack. I've done a LOT of doweling projects and this is a very simple procedure that isn't as touchy as some may think. FWIW, it's unlikely that golf tees will be hardwood. If there's a Lowe's or Home Depot in driving distance, look there, they always stock oak dowels. Use Titebond glue...it's inexpensive and more than strong enough...any glue that's stronger than the wood is fine, since the the glue does not provide any strength. Even Elmer's glue is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members georgestrings Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Use epoxy glue. It will soak into the wood and be stronger than wood fibers. If you end up drilling right next to it, it won't matter. I would recommend using a good quality wood glue - after all, it's made for this sort of thing... - georgestrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Perfessor Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Do you have a glue to recommend?I've been using Titebond for a l-o-n-g time. Buy a 30 minute epoxy or longer. The quick dry is OK but it's not as strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members georgestrings Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Do you have a glue to recommend?I've been using Titebond for a l-o-n-g time. I used some Elmer's wood glue, and it was just fine... - georgestrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted November 4, 2008 CMS Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 Do you have a glue to recommend?I've been using Titebond for a l-o-n-g time. Keep using it; that's the right stuff for wood/wood joints. The exception would be if you are gluing oily woods; then a polyurethane is generally preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 A little background on the "project": In my parts stash I had a lovely one-piece maple MIK Squier neck, a beat-up black "P" pickguard, a Lindy Fralin "P" pickup, some 250K pots, some Tele chrome-domes, and a set of Wilkinson tuners. I decided to put together a straight-up punkrock bass. I assembled it with a used "P" body I got locally that had a Wilkinson brass-saddle bridge. It is a super-light ash body painted black. It looks like the previous owner was a member of the "pickguard of the month" club... it has an assload of screwed-up pickguard holes (wood glue and toothpicks fixed that already:D) I wanted to just "throw it together" and see how it sounded before spending the time to relocate the neck screw holes. There is a 1/4" gap between the neck heel and the pocket, so the dowel-and-redrill will fix it. I took it to the studio Sunday and rocked with it for a little while. I played it with a fat pick and a heavy hand... and it sounds awesome! (especially for being made essentially of "spare parts") I'll fix the neck this weekend and it will be a permanent member of my family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 Found some oak dowels at a local hardware store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PaulyWally Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 I would stick with wood glue as well. I've never tried anything else for wood joints, so I cannot attest to the strength of other glues. But I know that a properly-made wood glue joint will be stronger than the wood itself. So I find no reason to work with epoxy... especially since it is often more cumbersome to deal with epoxy. As for the splitting... you need to drill an anchor hole before you drive a screw into it. If you plugged it properly and drilled the correct size anchor hole... you should have no issues at all. It should be like there was never even a hole there (strength wise). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted November 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 I've always wanted to build a "travel guitar" with threaded inserts and thumbscrews for the neck joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 plastic inserts for wall fixing should do i repaired our wardrobe hinge fixings with them i cleaned out the old hole to the diameter of the insert cut it to length using the 'head' of the insert tapped it into place.. and insert the fixing screws these expand the insert in the hole and give a tight fixing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bryan316 Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 No epoxy glues. Epoxy does NOT soak into wood grain as deeply as a proper wood glue with penetrating agents. Epoxy is a surface-friction bond. Wood glue bonds to the fibers of the wood itself. And you can easily drill the hole larger and use a dowel bigger than the hole itself. This will give you fresh wood to screw into. Forstner bit, tight fit requiring a mallet to tap it in, and plenty of glue. You'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcrow Posted November 4, 2008 Members Share Posted November 4, 2008 yes..pva adhesive also is water based..good penetration and cleans up easily when there is some extra seeping out when you knock in the dowel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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