Members Boosterbleep Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 To carry on from yesterdays thread about the defretting... I managed to get a set of nippers from Walmart for the princely sum of $5 and also some wood treatment. I managed to remove all the frets in under 30 minutes, I used an ordinary iron to heat the frets and removed with the nippers, it was very easy and i got no chips in the wood at all. Thanks for all the advice on how to do this. I put the strings back on and it plays pretty well as is. What next, in peoples experience, what did they have to adjust, the nut or string height etc. Also how have people filled the spaces left by the frets and what steps did they use to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Renfield and I used different approaches... I filled mine with maple veneer, he filled his with tinted-black epoxy. I would search and link the threads, but I'm at work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RedsFan75 Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 You can also go to the local Hobby store and get some sheets of colored hard plastic for a bit of a different look if you want. And yes lowering the nut height and string height is almost guaranteed, as you now have the height of the frets gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FailBoatCaptn Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 i use nippers for all kindsa {censored}. they are like itsy bitsy sharp plyers. they can be used as sicssors in a jam too! now that you have them... you'll see how often they come in handy. glad it worked out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Renfield Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Renfield and I used different approaches...I filled mine with maple veneer, he filled his with tinted-black epoxy.I would search and link the threads, but I'm at work. Under normal circumstances I would have used a veneer of some sort. My bass was a definite exception. In the poast I've ground some scrap rosewood to dust and mixed it with epoxy to try and make the lines disappear as much as possibly entirely too. I have also used maple, ebony and mahogany veneers before, depending on the desired look in the end. I've done it to hide them as much as possible, or make them stand out like using an ebony strip on a maple board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WynnD Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 I like the no-fret look. If your fingerboard is rosewood or ebony, you don't really need a finish on it. (My fretlesses are both ebony.) I would suggest that you move the side neck markers to the actual fret location. That's standard on fretless basses. It would take a little drill and fill action. I would think with a drill press, you could easily do it in a half hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Boosterbleep Posted January 15, 2009 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 The bass is a Yamaha RBX-170 and has a rosewood fingerboard. It doesnt look too bad left as is. I think it would look better and 'finished' if I fill in the gaps with black. I changed the bridge to a BadAss II and will be buying new strings for it (another thread topic im sure). I am also seriously considering attaching a bottle opener somewhere. Just for laughs. How do I go about making adjustments to the nut, ie do I change it completely or skim the one thats fitted ? I kinda like the markers to stay put, I automatically play up a bit from the markers anyway so I havent found that a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Boosterbleep Posted January 15, 2009 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Heres a couple of pics of the defretted bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 neat! Now go enjoy your no-frets Yammie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members groutt Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Glad to hear the defreting went well. The first thing I noticed after pulling the frets on mine was how high the strings were at the nut. (0.070") I borrowed a mill and lowered it to about 0.020". Used foil tape to shim up the tapered side so the vice will hold it straight.Used foil tape to shim up the tapered side so the vice will hold it straight. And I lowered the bridge as far as it would go. Wow, what a difference. But then I wanted to lower the strings more at the bridge so I shimmed the neck with popcicle sticks. Which is wrong because you should tip the neck back with a shim, not lift the neck flat up towards the strings. But I'm happy with it so far. Then filled the slots with thick superglue. I think I'll try something else next time. It shrinks so much when it dries that it's too much work going over it again and again to try to fill it in. And I'm surprised that clear glue looks so dark. Sanded. More superglue. Sanded. Still full of pinholes. Doesn't hurt anything, just looks crummy up close. Sprayed with Varathane Diamond water based stuff. Good luck, have fun, keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Glad to hear the defreting went well. The first thing I noticed after pulling the frets on mine was how high the strings were at the nut. (0.070") I borrowed a mill and lowered it to about 0.020". Used foil tape to shim up the tapered side so the vice will hold it straight.Used foil tape to shim up the tapered side so the vice will hold it straight. And I lowered the bridge as far as it would go. Wow, what a difference. But then I wanted to lower the strings more at the bridge so I shimmed the neck with popcicle sticks. Which is wrong because you should tip the neck back with a shim, not lift the neck flat up towards the strings. But I'm happy with it so far. Then filled the slots with thick superglue. I think I'll try something else next time. It shrinks so much when it dries that it's too much work going over it again and again to try to fill it in. And I'm surprised that clear glue looks so dark. Sanded. More superglue. Sanded. Still full of pinholes. Doesn't hurt anything, just looks crummy up close. Sprayed with Varathane Diamond water based stuff. Good luck, have fun, keep us posted. I'm not trying to be a dick, but... You had access to a mill and made your neck shim from posicle sticks??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members groutt Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 I'm not trying to be a dick, but... You had access to a mill and made your neck shim from posicle sticks??? Dick. I know, kind of cheesy. But I did trim the ends off after I took that picture. I liked the idea of getting as solid a contact as possible and the sticks are right up against all the screws. I'll probably try a tapered shim some time in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RedsFan75 Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 I used a thin piece of wood I got from the hobby shop, lifted the whole neck then added the tapered shim at the heel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chubrocker Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Uh....I have a fretless neck from a VM Squire for sale. Might have been easier to purchase then make? Not trying to be a dick, but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Uh....I have a fretless neck from a VM Squire for sale. Might have been easier to purchase then make? Not trying to be a dick, but... I defretted one of my P's because I hate wee Jazz necks... like playing a broomstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Boosterbleep Posted January 15, 2009 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 Tonight I will try to remove the nut, this is where it could all go horribly wrong !!! I will get it milled tomorrow depending on its condition after removal/destruction. Anyone have advice on what strings I should put on it, just looking for a 'cant go far wrong' set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members iamdenialNJ Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 awesome job Boosterbleep I filled my holes with wood filler. here's some pics going to put more wood filler soon and sand again. then want to add something else but i heard epoxy brings out high's and mids and i'm not too sure i want to do that. I might spray it with that Varathane Diamond water cuz this looks Sprayed with Varathane Diamond water based stuff. let us know what else you do to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Roguetitan Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 To carry on from yesterdays thread about the defretting...I managed to get a set of nippers from Walmart for the princely sum of $5 and also some wood treatment.I managed to remove all the frets in under 30 minutes, I used an ordinary iron to heat the frets and removed with the nippers, it was very easy and i got no chips in the wood at all. Thanks for all the advice on how to do this.I put the strings back on and it plays pretty well as is.What next, in peoples experience, what did they have to adjust, the nut or string height etc.Also how have people filled the spaces left by the frets and what steps did they use to do it. you will definitely need to fill the fret grooves because without any thing there can make the neck weaker and can cause the neck to bow. groutts examples are some excellent guidelines to go by:thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solderjunkie Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 you will definitely need to fill the fret grooves because without any thing there can make the neck weaker and can cause the neck to bow. groutts examples are some excellent guidelines to go by:thu: I noticed I had to give my truss rod a little nudge after defretting. I drove my maple veneer in with a wee mallet. I assume my veneer fillers fit more tightly than the original frets and gave the neck a little backbow. The Titebond glue is a fast-drying wonder for this kind of thing:thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Roguetitan Posted January 15, 2009 Members Share Posted January 15, 2009 yep you put some back bow in it when driving too tight of a piece in the groove a loose fit with good glue would have been a better way to go. sometimes we have to learn by trial and error. I am glad you were able to get the back bow out to get the proper neck relief:thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WynnD Posted January 16, 2009 Members Share Posted January 16, 2009 I just cut the nut slots deeper with some small round files I bought. I'm pretty much a hack at fixing and modifying stuff, but I'm a pretty good hack. Like the pictures. That's a nice bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Rippin' Robin Posted January 16, 2009 Members Share Posted January 16, 2009 Sprayed with Varathane Diamond water based stuff. This looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Boosterbleep Posted January 16, 2009 Author Members Share Posted January 16, 2009 Quick update.... The nut has been milled down 0.05cm but before I glue it back on im going to purchase some wood filler and sandpaper. I also want to colour the woodfiller black. What sandpaper should I purchase and any special technique for sanding the fingerboard or just good old fashioned patience ? Any suggestions for a dye to use on the wood filler ? Also, what strings should I put on this bass ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Roguetitan Posted January 16, 2009 Members Share Posted January 16, 2009 Quick update....The nut has been milled down 0.05cm but before I glue it back on im going to purchase some wood filler and sandpaper. I also want to colour the woodfiller black. What sandpaper should I purchase and any special technique for sanding the fingerboard or just good old fashioned patience ?Any suggestions for a dye to use on the wood filler ?Also, what strings should I put on this bass ? you can use rit dye for fabrics found in most grocery stores and I would use fender tape wounds JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Renfield Posted January 16, 2009 Members Share Posted January 16, 2009 you can use rit dye for fabrics found in most grocery stores and I would use fender tape wounds JMO Yup, and wow, talk about a culture shock for a first timer with those strings. If you want to ease into the world of fretless a little without too much shock, try D'Addario half wounds. I have them on my fretless and don't mind them terribly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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