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Tips wanted on getting the action lower on my bass


The Unknown

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Kindness, Nice write up!


Maybe you can appended for me, How do usually handle the neck angle or neck set?


Thanks,

 

 

Can you be more specific with your question? On a bolt on neck the adjustment is made by shimming. On a set neck or neck-through it isn't something that is going to be addressed by a DIYer. With respect to shimming, the neck angle is "correct" when the desired action can be achieved without bottoming out or topping out the bridge saddles adjustments. If you want, I can write up a neck shimming section - I've been meaning to anyway.

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Can you be more specific with your question? On a bolt on neck the adjustment is made by shimming. On a set neck or neck-through it isn't something that is going to be addressed by a DIYer. With respect to shimming, the neck angle is "correct" when the desired action can be achieved without bottoming out or topping out the bridge saddles adjustments. If you want, I can write up a neck shimming section - I've been meaning to anyway.

 

 

Sorry, should the neck be parallel with the body or should the neck be slightly angled forward?

 

I have just learned from experimentation.

 

How do you check if it's within spec?

 

I have been sighting by eye down the neck parallel to the body.

 

Thanks,

R

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Can you be more specific with your question? On a bolt on neck the adjustment is made by shimming. On a set neck or neck-through it isn't something that is going to be addressed by a DIYer. With respect to shimming, the neck angle is "correct" when the desired action can be achieved without bottoming out or topping out the bridge saddles adjustments. If you want, I can write up a neck shimming section - I've been meaning to anyway.



Sorry, should the neck be parallel with the body or should the neck be slightly angled forward?


I have just learned from experimentation.


How do you check if it's within spec?


I have been sighting by eye down the neck parallel to the body.


Thanks,

R

 

I hope you mean perpendicular? :p

 

You basically do it by feel/sight of action. I just folded an index card in half and then cut that in half, and used that. Worked like a charm, although I had to try it twice.

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How do you check if it's within spec?

 

 

If you can set the bass up to your satisfaction, the neck angle is fine. If you can't get your preferred action because the bridge saddles are bottomed out or all the way at the top then it is time to address the neck angle. If the bridge saddles are bottomed out and your action is too high, you need to shim in more of an angle. If the bridge saddles are all the way to the top and your action is too low, you need less of an angle.

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Here's a little diagram I made up that helps clarify neck angle and relief, and why they are important. This was made with acoustic guitars in mind, and some of the info is specific to them, but the general principles are the same. All the curves and angles are drastically exaggerated to make the various points clearer - in reality we are talking about things that are much more subtle.

 

neckrelief-action-warpage.jpg

 

Now, an explanation:

 

Example A - this shows what a lot of folks think is ideal - a perfectly flat neck in exactly the same plane as the body. This is NOT good, which will make more sense once you look through the others.

 

Example B - This shows a neck with relief, meaning an upward curve in the neck. This is not to be confused with a neck angle that rises (although a neck CAN have an upwards neck angle as well as relief). Though this example is extreme, this neck configuration is actually the closest to ideal and what we are looking to achieve. Again, more clarity later.

 

Example C - This shows a neck with backwards bow. This is bad, bad, bad, and should be avoided entirely. An instrument with this configuration cannot be set up properly and will play horribly. Similiar to like in example B, this should not be confused with a backwards neck angle, which can sometimes be a positive thing.

 

Example D - This shows an upwards neck angle (with a flat neck). On acoustic guitars, this is usually bad because the tongue of the fretboard will "rise" in relation to the rest of the fretboard, and the instrument will either buzz massively at and above the body join, or the action will have to be way too high. Note that an instrument with this configuration can appear to have relief, but this is a different thing. It can get even more confusing if you DO have some relief, along with a upwards neck angle. Careful observation and measurement will make things clear.

 

Example E - This shows a backwards neck angle (with a flat neck). This is not ideal, but it can be made to work ok. On acoustic instruments, the main problem will be too high a bridge, and very high action from the body join and up. Again, don't confuse this with a back bow. Also know that a lot of instruments, especially solid body electrics, are designed this way, and that is perfectly okay if that's the case.

 

Example F - This configuration is the same as Example A, but with the addition of a string (which your instrument WILL have). This illustrates why a perfectly flat neck isn't what you want. See, the string vibrates, and the amount of movement is called "excursion". The excursion is going to be quite a bit more in the center of the vibrating length than at the ends. This means that the string will tend to buzz against frets in its middle. If the neck was dead flat, you would have to set up the action high enough in the middle to not vibrate, which would be too high on the ends (particularly close to the nut).

 

Example G - This configuration is what you are trying to achieve (and is essentially what you see in Example B). See, now the neck curves (which is called "relief") similiar to how a string vibrates, and if you fret a string at any point, there is room for the excursion to not buzz against frets, but the action can be lower. Note that this shows a flat neck angle, but with relief that can make it appear as if the neck is angle upward.

 

Relief and neck angle are different things, but can often be confused with each other. The fact that any given instrument will likely have a combination of relief and angle issues makes it more confusing sometimes. Again, proper observation and measurement will lead you in the right direction.

 

Kindness's first thread is excellent and shows HOW to achieve proper relief (along with proper neck angle). His measurements are spot on and show you how little amounts we are talking about. Hopefully this diagram helps clarify WHY you are doing this.

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