Members faidlor Posted November 4, 2009 Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 Hi guys, Once again I am trying to figure things out and need your help. I am currently powering a pair of JBL Soundfactor 215 with a QSC RMX1450 and a pair of Yamaha SW118 with a Peavey CS1400 (the newest models out). I borrowed the amp from a friend and he now wants his amp back so I am in the market for a power amp to power my subs. I considering a RMX2450 or a GX5. I have a crossover already so the built-in crossover on the GX5 will not be used. According to this forum the GX5 are highly thought of. I'm just wondering which amp would be better for my cabs. I appreciate all comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Coaster Posted November 4, 2009 Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 QSC amps are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members allexcosta Posted November 4, 2009 Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 I'd get a GX5 and sell both RMX and crossover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members faidlor Posted November 4, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 I'd get a GX5 and sell both RMX and crossover. Really? But the power rating on the RMX is more. And what is the GX5 crossed at? Can you even set your own crossover points on the GX5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members allexcosta Posted November 4, 2009 Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 ^ Are you sure? All those speakers are 8ohm right? Subs on channel 1 and tops on channel 2, each cab gets 350W which is about right. Crossover point is fixed at 100hz, do you often feel the need for something different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 4, 2009 Members Share Posted November 4, 2009 ^ Are you sure? All those speakers are 8ohm right? Subs on channel 1 and tops on channel 2, each cab gets 350W which is about right. Crossover point is fixed at 100hz, do you often feel the need for something different?I think the SF215's are 4 ohms? If so the GX5 can't handle two on one channel as it not rated for 2 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members faidlor Posted November 5, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 The SF215 are indeed 4 ohms. I just checked it. They are rated at 500rms and 1000 watts max. That's why i thought a 1450 would work well with them. The SW118 subs are 8 ohms rated at 1000rms and 2000 max. I don't know if a 1450 will have enough juice to run those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members allexcosta Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 The SW118 subs are 8 ohms rated at 1000rms and 2000 max. Ain't those 300W speakers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 The SW118 subs are 8 ohms rated at 1000rms and 2000 max.Who told you that ? The 500w/ch of the GX5 is kinda pushing it for those 300w subs - definitely wouldn't go for more . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 The SW118 subs are 8 ohms rated at 1000rms and 2000 max. I don't know if a 1450 will have enough juice to run those. You got some bad info... those speakers are roughly 500 watts RMS, a 1450 or a GX-5 would be plenty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarharv52 Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 I have the Yami 18's.They are 300 cont. and 600 program.I run them with a 2450. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 I have the Yami 18's.They are 300 cont. and 600 program.I run them with a 2450. And I assume you are (very) careful? I have reconed a ton of those drivers and every one died a death at the hands of too much power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 And I assume you are (very) careful? I have reconed a ton of those drivers and every one died a death at the hands of too much power.Hey, seein's how yous a expert and all do you find the 200w Peavey driver in the PV118 or the Yammy 300w driver more robust? I haven't seen a replacement basket available for that particular Peavey driver, is it reconeable? Not that I'd do that - I'll replace them with a 400w+ 4"vc driver with the same fs when (if?) I finally blow them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Similar. For some of the older Peavey drivers, after market recone kits are available. This applies to those with replaceable baskets as well as traditional frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Similar.So to be clear, do you find the 200w Peavey driver good for about the same power as the 300w Yamaha driver?For some of the older Peavey drivers, after market recone kits are available. This applies to those with replaceable baskets as well as traditional frames.These are actually current production. You already stated you've reconed numerous SW118's - have you not seen any blown PV118's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members faidlor Posted November 5, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Okay, I checked it out. The subs are rated at 600 watts programmed and 1200 watts peak. The choice of a RMX2450 would have been disasterous!!! I guess a GX5 will be the choice then. That leads me to my next question. How is the crossover on the GX5? Can you set your own crossover points? I currently have a dbx 223XL and I do like the fact that I can set my own crossover point. I usually keep it around 100hz (always between 70-140). My ratios are currently set 2:1 bass to trebles. Does the GX5 have that capability? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Coaster Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 sort of. amp based xovers are usually 12db/oct where the dbx223 is 24db/oct. GX xover is fixed at 100hz, either HP or LP. if you already have a 223, use the 223. you seem to be overthinking a lot of this, just simplify. change a little at a time. pick a xover point and stick to it, ratios are not really a function of a 223xl. if it helps, i use a 223xl and have it set to around 100, tops down -3 or -6 depending on which speakers i am running, same xs900 amps to subs and tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Okay, I checked it out. The subs are rated at 600 watts programmed and 1200 watts peak. The choice of a RMX2450 would have been disasterous!!! I guess a GX5 will be the choice then.Huh? Those have about the same power ratings into 4 or 8 ohms. You really want the GX3 I think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members faidlor Posted November 5, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Yeah, that is about where I have my crossover set right now. So I will keep it like that. I just gotta find the right amp for the subs now. What does 12db/oct and 24db/oct. mean? I know that it means decibals per octave on each of the units but how does that affect the the output? Are you saying that the ouput on the 223XL is set to twice the output of an amp-based crossover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Coaster Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 Are you saying that the ouput on the 223XL is set to twice the output of an amp-based crossover? roll off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 So to be clear, do you find the 200w Peavey driver good for about the same power as the 300w Yamaha driver?These are actually current production. You already stated you've reconed numerous SW118's - have you not seen any blown PV118's? Yes, they are similar drivers, the Yamaha is a cast frame but all in all reasonably similar. The Yamaha is probably a bit more robust. The subs that come with the BW drivers I generally rebasket (with a couple of exceptions for very old product that baskets are not always available for, then I will try to use an aftermarket recone kit or go ahead and replace with a more current part. The new PV118's are a non-replaceable basket off-shore (or sure looks to be) driver, generally not worth reconing. I just replace, and yes I have seen them blown, in about the same proportion as the Yamahas (given the number locally). I have a couople of drivers I tend to use and replace in pairs (generally both are damaged anyway even if one still works). PS, Fs is only one parameter that needs to be considered, there are others that are equally as important but perhaps you know this already? YOu continue to make bold powering claims and recommendations to folks who do not understand the limitations of their equipment. Is out of ignorance, lack of understanding all the details or because you want to see them damage their equipment? You are also bordering on disrespectful comments to me (as I am reading them). Is this intentional? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 The new PV118's are a non-replaceable basket off-shore (or sure looks to be) driver, generally not worth reconing. I just replace, and yes I have seen them blown, in about the same proportion as the Yamahas (given the number locally). I have a couople of drivers I tend to use and replace in pairs (generally both are damaged anyway even if one still works). What drivers do you like for that box? PS, Fs is only one parameter that needs to be considered, there are others that are equally as important but perhaps you know this already?My understanding is that fs is the most important - what other parameters are equally important and why? YOu continue to make bold powering claims and recommendations to folks who do not understand the limitations of their equipment.I don't believe that is the case. Example? You are also bordering on disrespectful comments to me (as I am reading them). Is this intentional?eMail tends to sound that way - sorry if you have taken any as such. I really do want to know what your thoughts are on the PV118 vs SW118 as these two are kinda kings of the "minimum usable subs" world . And as I'm pretty sure I will need to re-load the PV118's I'm using soon I really do want to know what ~$200 driver would be best. If I remember correctly the AudioPile 18" looked OK but the ts parameters have been pulled from the website . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 1. I have an OEM driver that I still have good stock on that I like, it's a 4" voice coil cast frame unit, and substantially heavier. Cost is $150. I always run box modeling on any driver I replace with the actual ID measurements of the box and porting because dimensional changes and porting changes have been known to occur mid-run and I have been surprised by that before. I recommend that you do the same. 2. I suggest you look closely at Vas and Qe, both are loosely related to Fs but if Fs were the only important parameter then we wouldn't go through all this work. 3. In other threads, not this one. 4. re-read your posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 1. I have an OEM driver that I still have good stock on that I like, it's a 4" voice coil cast frame unit, and substantially heavier. Cost is $150. I always run box modeling on any driver I replace with the actual ID measurements of the box and porting because dimensional changes and porting changes have been known to occur mid-run and I have been surprised by that before. I recommend that you do the same.Yah, Peavey is kinda known for using the same model number on very different stuff. The manual I have says they are tuned to 46hz but I suppose I should at least run a frequency/impedance curve on them while they are still working . I suggest you look closely at Vas and Qe, both are loosely related to Fs but if Fs were the only important parameter then we wouldn't go through all this work.Those are most related to what size box is optimal for them? I'm kinda used to messing about with boxes smaller than optimal so worry more about the box being tuned to fs to control the excursion . I do use BoxPlot and it can get quite "interesting' as to how un-flat the response can get with a non-optimal box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted November 5, 2009 Members Share Posted November 5, 2009 4. re-read your posts.If you are referring to my "Hey, seein's how yous a expert and all" comment - AFAIK that is true when it comes to drivers and reconeing (and a bunch of other stuff) and was simply meant as a request for your expert opinion on the matter at hand - sorry if you interpreted it otherwise. Oh, and on those PV118 "upgrade" drivers, are they Eminence or ? Obviously a name brand OEM (that is easily reconeable?) is much preferable to some chinese non-name throwaway . I'll not be buying any before I finish toasting these as I will just use a pair of my other subs while waiting for the new drivers to arrive - plus I'm getting less and less convinced that I CAN toast 'em . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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