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Speaker Cables: Neutrik style speaker snake.


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I'm going to be buying speaker cables soon.

I'm considering rewiring a pair of Carvin #1588 cabinets that I have with an 8-pin Neutrik socket. so, the 2x15" speakers would be on one channel, the 2x8"+1.4" Horn will be on the next channel, and the 3rd and 4th channels will be passed through to a pair of NL4 jacks, one to be used as a pass through to the 18" Subs, and the other as a pass through for the Monitors on each side of the stage.

I'm going to be buying all of my cables from Audiopile.
I LOVE Audiopile. I decided that since I was literally building this system from the ground up, I took all my old mic cables and patch cables, and called some of my musician friends and gave almost all of them away. They though I was nuts, but the weakest link in my pa was mixed cables - so I kept anything that was EWI/Audiopile as backup cables, and I am now left with removing ratfur from the Carvin cabinets, applying Duratech paint, and installing new input panels on the back on the cabinets as I rewire the entire rig .

I've been buying my cables according to uses.  Every so often I would I buy, as an example all my TRS-TRS patch cables and channel insert cables... I have a custom rack mounted y-split/patch-bay, and next up is speaker cables and panel jacks to install in the speaker cabinets and build a patch panel for the amp rack.



 

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I might rethink this. What if at some point you don't use the speakers or 1 breaks down and you can't use it for a few shows?  I'd go with a true Speakcon snake. Have a stage box much like what is used for a XLR snakes and have that on each side of the stage to plug into. Speakon's selected as needed.  Less failure points and can be used for different speakers should you have a failure of some point. Remember the 1588's have some eq adjustments and padding in the passive crossover. Be sure to take a good look at the values and use those as you go to an active crossover.  I owned a set of those for some time. Used them both full range and with subs. Honestly if the crossovers in them are still fine I see little advantage of going active between the 2-15's and 2-8/horn section. I found 800 watts RMS at 4 ohms was a good power point to have available full range for them with subs under crossed over around 80hz. Much higher than that and you've taken the advantage of having 2 - 15's for your low midrange away.  I was using them for side fill for some time as well. 

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Awesome. I have no idea why I didn't think about this! For some reason, I keep seeing it in the speaker cabinet.

The issue is - they have crossovers in them, but I don't know if they are stock crossovers - because the switch on the back for bi-amping is gone. I am the third owner, and the second owner  was a local music school called "Rock School" that teaches kids to play in a rock band.
If it doesn't have the original crossovers in them, then I am going to build a set of them, and leave the switchable biamp option out.
I like the cabinets, they do what I need them to do. I was not going to run the subs inline with them. The only thing that I intended to hit the subs, was the kick drum, to maximize their impact.

Are those DTH subs? How do you like those? I always wondered how the "push-pull" speaker layout worked.

 

Edited by Consume
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Post a picture of the crossovers in the back. I'll know if they are stock or not. Yes, those are DTH-218B subs.  The woofer that is reversed, with the magnet showing, has its input wires reversed as well. Both cones move forward and back at the same time. The anti-axial arrangement of the drivers eliminates even-order harmonic distortion according to the manual. I later coupled them to Peavey QW1-s and that setup would work rather well.  The down side to the subs was they really needed some power to get up and go. For awhile I was running a GPS-3500 bridged for each one but the weight was just too much. Honestly I found a single yorkville LS800 sub did what they did with none of the work involved. The DTH also had a cut around 100hz or so that just couldn't be eq'ed out. Not bad for the day but time marches on. I was still using the carvin's for side fill. I found they sounded quite good for what they were. I had subs under them for a short time as mains and I had no complaints. 

 
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How many people did it take to get those QW-1's on top of the DTH subs?!?!

I can only imagine. LOL
I do have to keep that kind of thing in mind. I just turned 52, and last year started lifting weights just to be able to manhandle what I do have around.
 

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Consume  Said- "How many people did it take to get those QW-1's on top of the DTH subs?!?!"   Honestly I did it myself. I had a system worked out where I started them upside down. Slid them on so they ended up on their side on top of the DTH-Sub.  Think of the letter T.   Then I would pull them back and stand them up on top.  But I was MUCH younger then. (I'm older than you are now though) Fantastic speaker with very good controlled coverage. I had 3 Peavey CEX5 Digital crossovers to make it all work. The 3rd CEX5 crossover was for the old center fill. But too heavy for me. I believe the QW-1's are still sitting in a barn after only being used for 9 months. I should look them up and see what is left of them.  
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Reminds me of when I used to have to stack SR4733X cabs on top of my LS800s. They weighed as much as I did at the time. I used the same "T" system to get them up there as you did Dookie. Eventually I learned how to work smarter, not harder. I hired a HUGE college kid that would just pick them up and walk around with one in front of him asking me where to put it. He just just walk over with one and put it DOWN on the top of the sub. Once I switched to QRX212 cabs, I felt like I was sitting a monitor cab on the subs. Weighed nothing by comparison. So glad those days are gone. My system is now a LOT smaller, but I am not.... Old age and good food took a toll. LOL

 

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Reminds me of when I worked full time for another sound company about a 15 years ago. We were using a pair of EV Xi1183's for sidefills (or maybe mains for a smaller show, I don't remember), stacked on QRx218's. For some reason my other guy wasn't around at the time, so I lifted them into place by myself. I just lifted them up straight until I could slide the back edge onto the sub, which I remember being really difficult, but that was that. It was the only time I was dumb enough to try lift anything that heavy by myself, but I don't remember anything hurting afterwards so I guess it was fine. 

For those of you not familiar with the Xi1183, it's a horn loaded 3-way trap box with an 18" driver for the low mid, and they sound awesome. And the listed weight is 215lbs. That's probably almost what I weighed at the time, and I'm only about 25lbs heavier than that now. I'm not bragging, because there's no way I'd lift them myself again, even if I was at my peak, but I guess it's a good story. Since then I've done my best to work smarter, not harder!

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On 12/26/2021 at 12:15 AM, Joshua Motes said:

Hello, Do you still have the DTH218B's? I have four i use with four DTH4215's, could use more as low end is hard to get without several i guess. If so, Let's get together if you want to part with them.

Those have been gone for several years now. I still see them from time to time with this or that band. I had 4 and they worked great but again took a fair amount of power. I seen 1 pair that that was mine that was in a club house system sell for $150 dollars for the pair when they went out of business. They had no idea what they were. I'll ask around but again those are long gone I believe. What are you using for a crossover point between the 4215's? Have you tried overlapping the crossover point? Have you checked them with smaart to see if they are in good phase response at/around the crossover point? 

Doug

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