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You just hate to see it - rookie mistake

Gregidon

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modulusman Community Regular

modulusman

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My back-up PA is a JRX 115 and powered Yamaha mixer. It lives in our bedroom with the pc connected to it for entertainment. Makes a hell of a bedroom system and those JRX's look super sexy with my alarm clock and my partners jewelry all over them....I digress..


Actually I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the JRX boxes actually sound pretty fkn good for their price - once you've blown the crap JBL horn and upgraded it to an after market horn
;)

After I did that I couldn't believe how much better they sounded - it really was night and day and I think they sound as good as the EONs and speakers in that price range once they've had a horn upgrade.



I bet they make a better nightstand than they do a PA speaker. :)

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Seismic Audio Newbie

Seismic Audio

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Well, I will say that if one has the money to go out and grab some nice EV's or even EAW's, by all means. My experience over the years as a musician/engineer has been that on occasions, even Behringer gets it right. I have just been so let down in the past after shelling out a lot of money on "industry standard" gear only to go out and hear someone who knows what they are doing get a much better sound out of less expensive equipment.

I'm not saying that if something isn't sounding good it is always user error, but to me these are tools and tools are meant to make life easier. If "easier" means that a system should sound as close to perfect as possible without any tweaking , there will definitely be a cost. If "easier" means something that you don't have to dig into your kids college fund to purchase, the cost might be that you take the time to learn the gear and get the most out of it.

What would guys like to see in an affordable price range? As far as build quality and sound?

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Gregidon Newbie

Gregidon

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Well, I will say that if one has the money to go out and grab some nice EV's or even EAW's, by all means. My experience over the years as a musician/engineer has been that on occasions, even Behringer gets it right. I have just been so let down in the past after shelling out a lot of money on "industry standard" gear only to go out and hear someone who knows what they are doing get a much better sound out of less expensive equipment.


I'm not saying that if something isn't sounding good it is always user error, but to me these are tools and tools are meant to make life easier. If "easier" means that a system should sound as close to perfect as possible without any tweaking , there will definitely be a cost. If "easier" means something that you don't have to dig into your kids college fund to purchase, the cost might be that you take the time to learn the gear and get the most out of it.


What would guys like to see in an affordable price range? As far as build quality and sound?

 

 

I usually take the approach that I try to use in other areas of my life:

 

1. Figure out what you need and then buy the gear that meets the need - no-one is saying you need to go out and buy EAW NT boxes for the bar band. What you need to do is determine what you need performance wise and get the gear that provides it.

 

2. Don't buy the cheapest line of products available. - I believe one of the big problems our society has at the moment is the need for instant gratification. Yeah, you bought those cheapest tires, or tools, or TV. But are the limitations worth the reduced cost? Really? And the result is a house/apt overfilled with crap that will have to be replaced every year or two. My general philosophy is you usually want to buy at least the 3rd tier of products, if possible.

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Seismic Audio Newbie

Seismic Audio

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I usually take the approach that I try to use in other areas of my life:


1. Figure out what you need and then buy the gear that meets the need - no-one is saying you need to go out and buy EAW NT boxes for the bar band. What you need to do is determine what you
need
performance wise and get the gear that provides it.

 

 

I totally agree. I just feel that there are times where you are paying a little more for a reputation of great performance, and then there are times when you are paying simply for a name. Which I know this is not a new concept.

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Unalaska Newbie

Unalaska

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The Nady, Kustom, Behringer and frankly Seismic audio manufacturers don't realy care long term how their products work or hold up. There will always be a long line of people looking based on price. None of those companies have much in the way of R&D and there isn't any technology that will trickle down from the larger more expensive systems. There isn't anything larger.

Going down this road gets a little scary, thinking about all the bands out there using crap gear and it being painful to listen to them at the local bar. Most little bars that have live bands suffer at the fate of JBL LRX and kustom speakers, Pyle amps etc. And the last of the peope to put up with that garbage sound won't come out after a while then there will be no one to support live music (at the $300/night level).

Bar patron don't care what name is on your gear, of course. But they don't deserve to have their last few brain cells scrambled by crap gear. Think of it as a humanitarian effort, then next brain you fry could be yours.

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djr Newbie

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Just give him the two best words in buying musicial gear " Buy Used" , have him search Craig's List and Ebay. He'll find good gear that wont depreciate and fit the budget . Just took a look on CL in the Dallas area and there were a few things available that would be good buys . That's the way I'd go

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RoadRanger Rookie

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What would guys like to see in an affordable price range? As far as build quality and sound?

Plywood, no ratfur (Duratex is OK) and no 1/4" jacks :). I personally would like to see more compact subs (under 55 lbs).

 

These guys make a nice 52lbs 18" plywood sub:

http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/super-lite_subwoofers.html

I'd like to see it reduced to 20" deep and a bit less wide.

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gonzobassman Newbie

gonzobassman

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Plywood, no ratfur (Duratex is OK) and no 1/4" jacks
:)
. I personally would like to see more compact subs (under 55 lbs).


These guys make a nice 52lbs 18" plywood sub:

http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/super-lite_subwoofers.html

I'd like to see it reduced to 20" deep and a bit less wide.



Man I looked at these before I pulled the trigger!!! Ended up getting a like new set of the PV 18s for $100.00!!! Lol Singles like that are great for small rooms/gigs,though,and having a set offers me quite a bit in the way of versatility.

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Seismic Audio Newbie

Seismic Audio

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Plywood, no ratfur (Duratex is OK) and no 1/4" jacks
:)
. I personally would like to see more compact subs (under 55 lbs).


These guys make a nice 52lbs 18" plywood sub:

http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/super-lite_subwoofers.html

I'd like to see it reduced to 20" deep and a bit less wide.



I get the "no ratfur" and the compact size...but why no 1/4" jacks?

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RoadRanger Rookie

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Man I looked at these before I pulled the trigger!!! Ended up getting a like new set of the PV 18s for $100.00!!! Lol Singles like that are great for small rooms/gigs,though,and having a set offers me quite a bit in the way of versatility.

A pair of PV118's for $100 is a hell of a deal. They really aren't that big or heavy and seem to be quite conservatively rated :). However they are sawdust, ratfur and 1/4" only :(.

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RoadRanger Rookie

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I get the "no ratfur" and the compact size...but why no 1/4" jacks?

Well, if you need to put 1/4' jacks on them to sell them to the unwashed masses that'd be OK as long as they also have two speakons :) - especially if you've learned the difference between male and female speakons since I last "conversed" with you ;).

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Gregidon Newbie

Gregidon

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I get the "no ratfur" and the compact size...but why no 1/4" jacks?

 

 

Because 1/4" jacks are an antiquated, crappy way to hook up loudspeakers. In addition to the fact that they have a fairly poor surface area over which to transfer the power, they also short out your amp should the cable be pulled and the plug end up half way out. As if those we're big enough reasons, the confusion over instrument/speaker cable is in itself enough of an issue as to permanently ban 1/4" jacks on speakers forever. Of course a crappy 1/4" jack is cheaper than a speakon connector, so they will probably be around forever....

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gonzobassman Newbie

gonzobassman

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A pair of PV118's for $100 is a hell of a deal. They really aren't that big or heavy and seem to be quite conservatively rated
:)
. However they are sawdust, ratfur and 1/4" only
:(
.



True all that! But when I use them till they blow,or someone "hears"them,and offers $100.00 each for them,either way I will have gotten my money out of them because so far I haven't been able to hurt them!!! No {censored}! I hook them together on one side of a GX-5 (700 watts,or 350 to each),and I can't make them fart or fallout in any way!!! I wouldn't throw any more power than that to them,but I have been really surprised by them!

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Seismic Audio Newbie

Seismic Audio

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Well, if you need to put 1/4' jacks on them to sell them to the unwashed masses that'd be OK as long as they also have two speakons
:)
- especially if you've learned the difference between male and female speakons since I last "conversed" with you
;)
.



All of our PA enclosures have either or. I didn't know if you just couldn't stand the sight of 1/4" on a pa cab or what.

I'm not sure who you talked to about the differences between male and female speakons, might have been an IT guy :facepalm:.

I assure you that while I can't tell you the thiele-small parameters of everything we make off the top of my head, I surely know the difference between male and female speakon connectors.

I'm Darryl. If you ever need to know anything about us you can hit me at Darryl@seismicaudiospeakers.com

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True all that! But when I use them till they blow,or someone "hears"them,and offers $100.00 each for them,either way I will have gotten my money out of them because so far I haven't been able to hurt them!!! No {censored}! I hook them together on one side of a GX-5 (700 watts,or 350 to each),and I can't make them fart or fallout in any way!!! I wouldn't throw any more power than that to them,but I have been really surprised by them!

[AH blinding spell on]

 

I've been running a pair in stereo off an RMX2450 (500w each) and regularly push the kick 6db past the amp's clip limiter lights and they just won't fart or blow :freak:. Not my gear and the owner is OK with running them hot until they blow :facepalm: but they've survived a year that way so far :eek: ! The cabs ain't bad and the plan is to load some 4" VC drivers in there if the OEM's cook.

 

[AH blinding spell off]

 

;)

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RoadRanger Rookie

RoadRanger

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I assure you that while I can't tell you the thiele-small parameters of everything we make off the top of my head, I surely know the difference between male and female speakon connectors.

So, which sex is on you speaker cabs?

 

Your eBay ads for cables used to have it backwards but I can't find any reference to sex in any of your present listings :).

 

It was a Steve I "talked" to about a year ago.

 

EDIT> Yup, still wrong:

http://www.seismicaudiospeakers.com/Set-of-4-Cables-Speakon-to-TS-1-4-18-p/spqr-18.htm

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RoadRanger Rookie

RoadRanger

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kidding again ...........2 connector Male

Hopefully those are the 4 pin versions as the 2 pin males don't mate with the standard 4 pin female cable connectors:

"Note: The NL4FC cord end will not insert into NL2MP panel jacks. If your equipment is equipped with NL2 panel jacks, then NL2 connectors must be used."

http://www.audiopile.net/products/Adaptors_Connectors/NEUTRIK/NL4_Speakon/NL4FC/NL4FC_cutsheet.shtml

 

And why does this listing have it wrong:

http://www.seismicaudiospeakers.com/...-p/spqr-18.htm

 

BTW that was the specific item I was questioning a year ago.

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