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Alonzo Mosley

Repair Help - Fretting Sharp

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For other guitars sitting in cases... Just if they sound/play funny? It's not like it's an every three years/30,000 missed notes kind of thing?

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Any that don't make you go yeah when you use them. 

They just change a tiny bit over time and most are never perfectly set up initially. 

I love working on guitars, so mine are where I like them for the way I play each of them. Saves a lot of money, but start with a beater. 

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When I was in high school I tinkered with some beaters. But didn't have any resources (besides the local library, open two hours, four nights a week). Now, of course, I have the $$ to have nice guitars and other resources to learn how to work on them, but neither the time nor the space.

When I lived in Philly, I found a nearby luthier (two blocks!) who salvaged my prized possession from high school, which had been sitting in the attic of a garage for 23 years. So that was cool. I will find a guy to get my 339 in shape and then maybe pick up a beater at a pawn shop and learn what I should have back in the day.

Honestly, just changing the strings and flipping the saddle helped a ton. So thanks everyone who offered real advice.

How hard is it to do a nut job (yeah, I hear it) myself? Or should I just leave that for the pro when I find him/her?

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6 hours ago, Alonzo Mosley said:

When I was in high school I tinkered with some beaters. But didn't have any resources (besides the local library, open two hours, four nights a week). Now, of course, I have the $$ to have nice guitars and other resources to learn how to work on them, but neither the time nor the space.

When I lived in Philly, I found a nearby luthier (two blocks!) who salvaged my prized possession from high school, which had been sitting in the attic of a garage for 23 years. So that was cool. I will find a guy to get my 339 in shape and then maybe pick up a beater at a pawn shop and learn what I should have back in the day.

Honestly, just changing the strings and flipping the saddle helped a ton. So thanks everyone who offered real advice.

How hard is it to do a nut job (yeah, I hear it) myself? Or should I just leave that for the pro when I find him/her?

most of 'normal' set up can be done with some simple tools and there are plenty of videos on youtube to explain how..

You can buy 'pre-slotted' nuts with correct spacing for Gibsons, and you just need a set of 'nut files', some feeler gauges [like we used to use to gap spark plugs], a caliper and patience...

When I learned, back in the ancient era of 3 channels on TV and computers the size of a Winnebago, it was trial and error and a couple of very good books [bestest of the restus was Dan Erlewine's, my copy now lost in the void]. StewMac is a good resource for what you would need to have in order to set-up and maintain your 339.

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OK 1st just try the guitar after turn the saddle and put on new strings. Check the string action ( It should not be much different unless it was bad in the 1st place)Than go to youtube and check how to set intonation . It's real easy and check out other Youtube for cutting nuts and ajusting the neck.

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Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, Alonzo Mosley said:

0.10's are objectively "light", as per anything I've ever read, ever. Including what I posted. EB's "Regular Slinky"s are 0.10's. Modus ponens.

Except Ernie Ball doesn't describe strings by traditional gauges or by "light," "medium," "heavy," etc. Instead they describe their strings by "slinkyness." If you had said "regular slinky 10-46 light" that would be accurate. Since p ≠ q there is no modus ponens. As for your guitar, my suggestion is to put the lightest (or , if you prefer, slinkyest) strings on it you can find, set it up to the best of your ability, and sell it.

Edited by DeepEnd

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