boy i had my altecs screaming last night!

[twostone]

yep 1231.

It's hard to believe those old cabs did a metal show and survived.
I can't imagine them even coming close of keeping up metal stage volume.

[RoadRanger]

Sounds like a relatively low RPM built motor unless I'm missing something?. 2.xx gears would give you the best mileage but that's no fun . 3.25's might be a good compromise and it should still be able to light 'em up even if you add some ballast back there. 5-600 lbs of ballast underneath the bed behind the axle should be good assuming you'll never need the full weight capacity?

[W. M. Hellinger]

Sounds like a relatively low RPM built motor unless I'm missing something?.

 

I haven't driven it enough to make an assessment of the torque vs. rpm capabilities of the motor. I do know it won't idle much below 1,200 rpm until it's good and warmed up and has fully cleared it's throat. When it is warmed up, it idles nicely at approx. 700 rpm... but has a very noticable lope to it. I believe the rotating mass of the engine is reasonably well balanced since above an loaping idle, I can set a glass of water on the air cleaner and there's basically no ripple. If I can believe the aftermarket tach (and my Snap-on diagnosis tach), the engine will snap from an idle to 7K in less than a heart-beat.

 

This 66 C-10 is my first 4 wheeled fossil fuel burning project innabout 30 years.

[RoadRanger]

I haven't driven it enough to make an assessment of the torque vs. rpm capabilities of the motor. I do know it won't idle much below 1,200 rpm until it's good and warmed up and has fully cleared it's throat.

Yah, maybe something more like a 3.55 set? I seem to remember that as a popular ratio, think there's a 3.73 too. The 3.55 will bring you 55mph down to 3000 RPM. Do you want to cruise at 55 or higher?

[W. M. Hellinger]

Yah, maybe something more like a 3.55 set? I seem to remember that as a popular ratio, think there's a 3.73 too. The 3.55 will bring you 55mph down to 3000 RPM. Do you want to cruise at 55 or higher?

 

55 - 70 mph (functionally probably 75 -80 mph if the truth be told) as we have those highways here... and literally a hundred miles minimum round-trip to anywhere.

[RoadRanger]

55 - 70 mph (functionally probably 75 -80 mph if the truth be told) as we have those highways here... and literally a hundred miles minimum round-trip to anywhere.

Well, if that's what you want it to be best at go low - right now if you turn 3500 @ 55 you'd turn 5000 @ 80 . To turn 3500 @ 80 would take something around 2.80 . The 3.25 I originally suggested would be 4000 @ 80 - not horrible. Does it have a high stall torque converter - what RPM do you get floored when stopped?

[Coaster]

It's funny that Altec Lansing is reported to have a discontinued product with that exact model number and look. (Also can't find a company that is only named Altec.) I've been an Altec Lansing fan for about 42 years. My first Altec Lansing product was a 35 watt tube PA amp. I have a pair of Kustom PA speaker with OEM Altec Lansing 15" drivers that I use nearly every week. Looks like one of your woofers has been replaced. The other should have an identifying number on the frame that would verify who made the woofer. The speakers appear to be rated 120 watts with a 97 dbc at 4' on 1 watt. (Pretty good. Very good for wedges.) Thanks for the info.

 

 

both altec drivers, one is newer. the silver capped one is original. part of the reason i got these is because they sounded bad before i got them, the person who replaced the driver wired it backwards. after bringing them home i wired it correctly and they sound great.

[W. M. Hellinger]

Does it have a high stall torque converter - what RPM do you get floored when stopped?

 

Yes, I believe it is equipped with a high stall torque converter. Floored and stopped my pick-up just burns rubber... but when the tires hook-up, the RPM seems to stay fairly constant from about 30mph - ???

[Coaster]

Speaking of gear ratios, I could use a little advice on what would be a good gear ratio as I'm working on finishing my pick-up, and I do need to change the rear-end gear ratio... as I believe the current gear ratio is 4:11 (or higher) since the motor's turns approx. 3500 @ 55mph. I bought the pick-up as a half finished project... and all indications are the previous owner was setting it up for street light to street light head turning. In my possession, I doubt this pick-up will ever see another street light. My intention is to make a "fun driver" out of it... to run to the "store" (closest store of consequence is a 60 mile round trip... all 55 mph highway) and commute between my warehouses (7 miles apart, one stop sign, all 55 mph highway). More particulars about this pick-up: Make: Chevy Model: C-10 fleetside Year: 1966 Engine: 383 stroker (approx. 400HP) Tranny: Turbo 400 Rear end: 12 blot Tires: 60 series 15" (205/60R15 I think)

 

 

3.23 area is a good compromise between off the stop and highway, maybe a little low but with the auto it would be ok. my truck hits 3500 at 85mph with 3.54's - it could really use a 5th gear for highway; i have a really weird tranny - the shifts are huge. first gear is almost 7:1 and reverse is nearly 9:1

 

reverse will put you through the windsheild if i'm not careful - no joke - when i was learning to drive it the first time iw ent into reverse it shook my whole body so bad my foot fell off the clutch and my other foot went into the gas (idle is more than enough). my head hit the steering wheel and i think i stomped on the brakes hard enough to kill it. it really freaked me out.

[RoadRanger]

Yes, I believe it is equipped with a high stall torque converter. Floored and stopped my pick-up just burns rubber... but when the tires hook-up, the RPM seems to stay fairly constant from about 30mph - ???

Hopefully it at least has a two plain manifold and not a cheap high-rise? If you're not doing any stop and go or trailer hauling that might overheat the tranny the 3.25's should still spin the tires even with some ballast. Did the guy that built it do anything to get some weight on the rear? Big power in an unloaded rear wheel drive pickup in pretty useless...

I'm kinda a fan of low rpm operation myself. I have a 1985 F150 with the 300 straight six and the non-granny 4 speed OD with a 2.75 rear (I think). In OD (.71 I think) it's stoopid low (1.95:1 if I got it right), I seem to remember 1500rpm @ 65 or some such. You literally can't move it if you load it up off-road which is why the last owner sold it to me cheap. It was a high MPG EPA special that year - I really should get it back together now that it turned 25 years old . I think '85 was the last year for carbureted - I know it was for the Chevy K-10 I had. Pretty scary that a rectangular headlight vehicle is an antique now .

[RoadRanger]

3.23 area is a good compromise between off the stop and highway, maybe a little low but with the auto it would be ok. my truck hits 3500 at 85mph with 3.54's - it could really use a 5th gear for highway;

That's probably an OD tranny?

[Coaster]

nope. 4th is 1:1

truck is a 3/4 ton and i have stock size tires on it which are very tall.

[W. M. Hellinger]

Hopefully it at least has a two plain manifold and not a cheap high-rise?

 

Yes, I believe so. I believe the intake manifold is cast iron... it's painted orange.

 

No stop & go in this pick-ups future and no trailer hauling.

 

I'm a fan of torque over RPM too... but it is what it is... it clears it's throat about like this (on a smaller scale):

 

 

[RoadRanger]

tires on it which are very tall.

Ah, "Redneck OD"

[Coaster]

mark if your 383 is cammed anything like your vid then you cant go lower than 4:11. personally i dont like engines cammed past 292 advertised and just over 0.5" lift, just too damn peakey and the idle will drive you nuts.

 

the cam in mine is weird, it has about 0.5" lift, the exhause duration is wide open but the intake duration is very short. it pulls about 19" at idle, and will idle at 450rpm if i want it to.

[RoadRanger]

Well, junkyard gears are usually cheap enough - you could mess about with it until you were happy with the ratio and then get a good set if you plan on occasionally burning off some tires. The high stall converter might let you get away with low gears. A mild cam would be the right fix but would ruin that "muscle car idle" vibe you have going on there .

I've got a stock 427 truck motor w/4 speed electronic auto I could shoehorn into my F150 if I wanna get crazy . I could turn it into a dually too as I have the axle already, dunno the ratio though.

[Craig Vecchione]

Mark, you might be better off selling the drivetrain and buying a milder engine and rear. That truck is definitely set up for a use you have no use for, and making partial mods will give you some weird results, probably similar to my half-finished Camaro/LT-1. By the time you swap out the rear gears, and the HS convertor, and the cam, and the.....

 

That thing wants to be a race truck. Might work out well to swap it back to being a truck truck, which sounds like your need.

[Craig Vecchione]

FWIW, the available lower gear ratios for an 8.875" (12bolt) Chevy *truck* rear are 3:08, 3:42 and 3:73.

 

If you re-cam, and lose the convertor for a stock unit, you can go with the 3:08. If you make no other changes, the 3:73 will work well.

[RoadRanger]

FWIW, the available lower gear ratios for an 8.875" (12bolt) Chevy *truck* rear are 3:08, 3:42 and 3:73.

Yah, I''m a Ford guy mostly - loved them "quickie" rears . I had a C10 that had a stock 400 small block (out of a junked car I'm sure) in it once - you could load that up until the rear bumper was makin' sparks and it climbed and accelerated just the same. I think it was 300 ponies? Destroying the idle and low end torque of a perfectly good truck motor never appealed to me .

[Craig Vecchione]

Yah, I''m a Ford guy mostly - loved them "quickie" rears . I had a C10 that had a stock 400 small block (out of a junked car I'm sure) in it once - you could load that up until the rear bumper was makin' sparks and it climbed and accelerated just the same. I think it was 300 ponies? Destroying the idle and low end torque of a perfectly good truck motor never appealed to me .

 

I used to be all about Chevy, but when it comes to trucks, nothing beats Ford F-series. Old Chevy's are so easy to work on though, and there's pretty much anything you need available in parts for stock and performance. They're the Harley of cars and trucks...great customization platforms.

[RoadRanger]

Speaking of Fords, someone I used to know has a Model-A Cabrolet with the original race motor in it - heavier "stationary engine" block, factory race cam and manifold, plus the lower somewhat rare "Highway" rear end ratio. That was probably a custom ordered "sports car" before they had sports cars . Most Model -A's struggle to cruise on the highway but no prob with this beast. Much more class than a V8 hot rod conversion - may even be a one-of-a-kind?

[JoeDirt]

I had 4:11 gearing on my Chevy Nova. Highway speed sucked to put it mildly.

[madjack]

Oh you young boys with your fast hot rods. Nobody needs to get anywhere faster than 25mph. You should focus on important things.:poke:

[W. M. Hellinger]

Mark, you might be better off selling the drivetrain and buying a milder engine and rear. That truck is definitely set up for a use you have no use for, and making partial mods will give you some weird results, probably similar to my half-finished Camaro/LT-1. By the time you swap out the rear gears, and the HS convertor, and the cam, and the..... That thing wants to be a race truck. Might work out well to swap it back to being a truck truck, which sounds like your need.

 

But... but, but, but... I have a truck... actually two of them. They're freight haulers... picked for their engineered practical aspects. Sometimes you just gotta kick practicality to the curb and just do something (anything) purely for the hell of it. My way of thinking: So-long as they're still making fossil fuels... I'm gonna have a little fun with it... during those precious few minutes I have in a day every few weeks to do such a thing. WTF... I'm having fun with the project so-far... I've got most of the body work right... the interior is near perfect. I'd like to finish getting the drive train right before pulling it down for the paint and powder coat finishing before the final assembly.

[RoadRanger]

If it was mine I'd gear it so you could just barely still break traction from a dead stop with a normal load .

 

Stock Ford autos could be started in second and I know some other manufacturer's modded trannys can do the same - is yours like that? If so can it break traction in second from stopped? Can you measure the converter stall RPM that way?