Jump to content

Replacing the speaker in a Sub


Recommended Posts

  • Members

OK - another noob question from me :D. You'd think after 30 years of playing in bands I'd have picked some of this up by osmosis...

 

Anyway, I have a pair of cheap subs, Peavey PV118's. Their not our "main" subs, but I was thinking of keeping them around for small club gigs, etc. Anyway, I blew one. So my question is, can I replace both speakers with a better, more powerful speaker rather than just getting the replacement speaker for the one? If so, does anyone have any recommendations (I was thinking the BlackWidow 1801-8, but :idk:)?

 

I know that there's issues with matching the speaker to the box, etc. so I just want to make sure I don't waste my money doing something stupid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

You need to simulate the proposed driver in that box to see what happens to excursion at low frequencies and higher power. This plays a big part in reliability, and then see if there's suitable sensitivity and low end and response is adequate for your use.

 

I have some new Eminence Ohmega Pro 18's that MIGHT be suitable, but it depends on the box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
I know a guy that has 3 blown drivers out of those cabs if you are interested in them.

I don't think they are worth reconing - they seems to be a Peavey "Pro 18" which isn't sold at retail in this country like the "Pro 10" through "Pro 15", I'd guess if it was it would be $80 or so. In any case I've yet to hear of one blowing without being abused well beyond where you'd think they would give up - do you know how they were blown? Shredded or cooked voicecoils?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
I don't think they are worth reconing - they seems to be a Peavey "Pro 18" which isn't sold at retail in this country like the "Pro 10" through "Pro 15", I'd guess if it was it would be $80 or so. In any case I've yet to hear of one blowing without being abused well beyond where you'd think they would give up - do you know how they were blown? Shredded or cooked voicecoils?

no idea, just that the VCs were dead. He was pushing them with an old Crest 3500S and later a QSC PLX2404. In stereo both cases.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
no idea, just that the VCs were dead. He was pushing them with an old Crest 3500S and later a QSC PLX2404. In stereo both cases.

Hmm... Maybe had the limiters and/or HPF's switched off and/or was pushing DJ music through them full boogie? Live music seems to be kinder to subs than heavily produced recordings :( .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Hmm... Maybe had the limiters and/or HPF's switched off and/or was pushing DJ music through them full boogie? Live music seems to be kinder to subs than heavily produced recordings
:(
.

nope. Live stuff only. Very anti-DJ. The old Crest had no limiters but was about 300/channel @ 8 ohms. He's been using the QSC for about a year now. But he's had comp/limiters in his rack, and later a Driverack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
nope. Live stuff only. Very anti-DJ. The old Crest had no limiters but was about 300/channel @ 8 ohms. He's been using the QSC for about a year now. But he's had comp/limiters in his rack, and later a Driverack.

Well, somethin' weren't right - them PV118's are pretty bullet-proof at 300w into 'em as long as you're not clipping the amp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

I do think that live uncompressed kick drum, etc can be at least as taxing to a sub as overly compressed recorded stuff...

Physically - yes. Thermally - no.

 

I agree with AH's "rule of thumb" that an 18 can take about 600w before you are in danger of physical (other than vc overheat) damage. I'd say that is mostly independent of it's thermal rating when talking about well built drivers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Physically - yes. Thermally - no.


I agree with AH's "rule of thumb" that an 18 can take about 600w before you are in danger of physical (other than vc overheat) damage. I'd say that is mostly independent of it's thermal rating when talking about well built drivers.

 

 

This rule of thumb does not apply to this driver, and it's a function of it's mechanical parameters. I would not recommend over 400 watts on thid driver under any circumstances and 300 watts is better but not foolproof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Not anymore, but IIRC it was a pretty short VC and wide gap, pretty stiff to keep things together so when driving it hard, it moves farther than the designers intend and damage occurs. A steep HPF is essential if you plan on driving these things above 300-400 watts and expect any kind of longevity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

A steep HPF is essential if you plan on driving these things above 300-400 watts and expect any kind of longevity.

Yes, the manual is pretty clear about that:

"40 Hz, at a minimum of 18dB/octave roll-off".

Most folks are using amps that are switchable between 30 and 50 and using 30 when they should be using 50 :( .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...