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Speaker cloning


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If a person was to duplicate a cabinet/speaker using all of the exact factory components and build the cabinet to match the internal dimensions of the original, would there be any reason the clone would not behave like the original? This is taking into account for a cab design that is essentially a box with 4 sides or a trap shape with 6. No odd baffles,horns etc..

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it would be the same. what speaker?

 

only challenge might be some unique crossover parts. also it may cost more to clone than to just buy. i suggest a detailed price list of all parts including handles, t-nuts, corners, coating, drivers, input plates, materials and time.

 

i just built a several thousand dollar pair of clubs (but it was worth it)

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Bag End Crystal-R. There are factors I'm not concerned about dupicating like handles, grill, cosmetics etc.. Just focusing on internal dimensions,factory drivers, horns and X-over. Plus these cabs weigh a ton, wouldn't bother me if the clones were about 25lbs. lighter. No need for fly points etc..

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It gets easier when you don't have to build a passive crossover. There are lots of JBL 4732 clones out there, some good, some not. If it's something you think yo can do then go for it. It's a learning experience for sure (I built 10 passive 12+1 wedges in the last year). The resale value isn't much at all though.

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I was going to suggest no crossover and just making them bi-amp only. I then looked at the speaker online and Bag End has some sort of alignment in the crossover (Crossover Network:Passive Time-Align equalizer type @ 1.9 kHz). I'm not sure how they pull off passive time alignment, but whatever. Are you able to get that same crossover?

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Bag End Crystal-R.

 

 

A box is a box ... if you can duplicate everything else. These look like nice systems (although I haven't heard them).

 

If you decide to go with DSP, I've got a pair of Digmoda plate amps that would be perfect for a high end project like this ... https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=360_454&products_id=8735 I'd let them go for about half this price.

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BE sells the x-overs, quite cheap really. ($143.00) And yes Andy you're right but this is the direction I'm committed. These speakers are really good sounding, I'm very happy with them (except the weight) I just need one more set to array with the other two for outdoor stuff. If I knew I could sell them for a decent price, I'd be down at your shop loading up those line-array boxes you showed me. The only thing really stopping me is I have a wife that can be tougher than R. Lee Emery and I'm not saying anymore!!!! (thank God she doesn't look like him!!)

 

Don--Thank you for the offer. Can't tell what direction it might go at this point.

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It gets easier when you don't have to build a passive crossover. There are lots of JBL 4732 clones out there, some good, some not. If it's something you think yo can do then go for it. It's a learning experience for sure (I built 10 passive 12+1 wedges in the last year). The resale value isn't much at all though.

 

 

If I may ask, what components did you use and where you happy with the results? I built six last winter and thought they came out quite good. Would love to have some JBL712's but having woodworking skills is a lot cheaper.

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For 6 of them I used some 300w carvin 12's, as I can I've been replacing them with eminence detla 12's. 22xt on a 80x60 lens, 2.2k crossover from a previous speaker cab. the other 4 use the audiopile 12's. They get stupid loud and stay clean but are heavy (50lbs), I'm considering replacing the audiopiles with eminence deltas and using the 12's for a dual 12+2 box. It takes some $ to do this though, I'm not exactly floating in it right now.

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I have not seen any all-pass filters supposadly used for "time alignment" that weren't just marketing terms. I do not think it's technically possible to gain any meaningful or useful delays of of a passive "all-pass" filter.

 

Buyer beware. ;)

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That's how Meyer Sound did it for years.

 

 

That's not what they were doing in their HF drivers.

 

If I am remembering this correctly, they added a "linearization" element (actually 2 parts) inside the driver's connection chamber that provided an RC load that offset the rising impedance due to the inductance of the driver's load profile. In theory this makes the load look more like a resistor to the passive crossover when used. It's called a Zobel network, and really has nothing to do with an all-pass filter. I do not recall if they still use this (some manufacturers do).

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