Members StratGuy22 Posted January 28, 2012 Members Share Posted January 28, 2012 Where do you get the stencils from? Do you put the paint in with a roller, a spray can? I know you mask them off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Vito Corleone Posted January 28, 2012 Members Share Posted January 28, 2012 Office Max http://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/arts-crafts-supplies/stencils/product-prod3291038?cm_mmc=Googlepla-_-Office%20Supplies-_-Arts%20and%20Crafts%20Supplies-_-Stencils&CS_003=9286091&CS_010=11133301&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11133301&gclid=CPni4-jn860CFSYaQgodwTc2rw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmart Posted January 28, 2012 Members Share Posted January 28, 2012 Brass stencils Uline.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members TIMKEYS Posted January 28, 2012 Members Share Posted January 28, 2012 Where do you get the stencils from?Do you put the paint in with a roller, a spray can? I know you mask them off... I would go to a screen print outfit that can make some vinyl transfers if you have smooth surfaces. Much easier to undo. They may also be able to make you a stencil which will be much better than trying to deal with a bunch of single letter ones. I had a guy make me up one when I had to placard a custom baggage compartment in an airplane I restored. Worked great. I sprayed this one. Tape it in place and mask it off with newspaper ,, and spray it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Tomm Williams Posted January 28, 2012 Members Share Posted January 28, 2012 I would go to a screen print outfit that can make some vinyl transfers if you have smooth surfaces. Much easier to undo. They may also be able to make you a stencil which will be much better than trying to deal with a bunch of single letter ones. I had a guy make me up one when I had to placard a custom baggage compartment in an airplane I restored. Worked great. I sprayed this one. Tape it in place and mask it off with newspaper ,, and spray it. Very similar to how I mark my cases. I get the 3" vinyl adhesive letters from WallyWorld. Looks good and easily changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmart Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 Looks good and easily changed. Yeah, but in most cases where stenciling is a necessity, the point is to make it difficult to change. You want something permanent that someone couldn't easily remove if they get the gear/case through less-than-honest means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StratGuy22 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 At work we have a paint shop, and I can get vinyl letters, for anything, and I do have the cases labelled with that. I just figured the stenciled letters were better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Alan Roberts Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 Office Maxhttp://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/arts-crafts-supplies/stencils/product-prod3291038?cm_mmc=Googlepla-_-Office%20Supplies-_-Arts%20and%20Crafts%20Supplies-_-Stencils&CS_003=9286091&CS_010=11133301&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11133301&gclid=CPni4-jn860CFSYaQgodwTc2rw Yep. Office Depot, too. And I think the last time I bought a set they came from Michaels, which is a craft shop in my area - not sure how big they are nationally... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 I had stencils cut from engraving plastic (gravaply?) and they worked great. The main thing is layinbg flat and keeping clean. Light coats without moving, and they need to sit flat or the spray will bleed. Mask surrounding area very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members W. M. Hellinger Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 I'll suggest a silk screen stencil for best results. I built my company's silk screen stencil as a project in college. I still have the stencil and have been using it all these years for silk screen stenciling everything from road cases to tee shirts to mud flaps. Today I delivered a system to a church that I'd put together and silk screened logos on the road cases over 2 decades ago... the logos looked as good today as they did 20 years ago. I couldn't hazard a guess what a silk screen stencil would cost to have it custom made at a silk screen shop... but I'd suspect if you have the camera ready artwork, and knowing what's involved, I can't imagine it would be more than $100 to get set-up. It seems like silk screen stencils were farily common DIYS items 20, 30, 40 years ago. I remember our Boy Scout troop silk screening tee-shirts & neckerchiefs for the world scout Jamboree back in the early '70's, and bike clubs silk screening tee-shirts for events in the '80's, etc... I don't know if it's as common as it used to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members W. M. Hellinger Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 Do you put the paint in with a roller, a spray can? Generally (I've found) a roller brush will produce much sharper results than a foo-foo can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members trevcda Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 +1 on the silk screening. If you have someone that does your shirts, chances are they've already got a workable logo and probably have a screen already. If you design isn't too complex and you have the time, talent and patience, you could get the home version for $40 bucks: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=184900 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StratGuy22 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yep. Office Depot, too. And I think the last time I bought a set they came from Michaels, which is a craft shop in my area - not sure how big they are nationally... Nice. There's a Michaels in my area. So you take the letters, use them as a guide and makeA stencil right? (God I feel like such a N00B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Tomm Williams Posted January 29, 2012 Members Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yeah, but in most cases where stenciling is a necessity, the point is to make it difficult to change. You want something permanent that someone couldn't easily remove if they get the gear/case through less-than-honest means. Understood, but if someone already has your road case of goodies----------you're screwed, no stencil is going to matter. At times, I've needed to re-mark a case as it's contents have changed thus my suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members W. M. Hellinger Posted January 30, 2012 Members Share Posted January 30, 2012 If you're going for numbering cases, I suggest metal stencils, that you can mix and match the numbers... I have a set of brass numbering stencils... probably common stuff, and a 1" alpha-numberic stencil cutting machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted January 30, 2012 CMS Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Generally (I've found) a roller brush will produce much sharper results than a foo-foo can. Both are improved if you can spray the backside of the stnecil with some stenciling adhesive, let it get tacky, and stick the stencil in place. I prefer very light coats from a greater distance, or using a roller that's been well rolled out, to avoid wet runny drips under or over the stencil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmart Posted January 30, 2012 Members Share Posted January 30, 2012 Both are improved if you can spray the backside of the stnecil with some stenciling adhesive, let it get tacky, and stick the stencil in place. I prefer very light coats from a greater distance, or using a roller that's been well rolled out, to avoid wet runny drips under or over the stencil. I can't believe I never thought of that. I used to work weekends at a backline company with a huge inventory, and all the stencils were uber-clean... Couldn't figure out why I had such a challenge using the exact same brass stencils, ink and pad/roller as what's at that shop. I have struggled with getting clean and solid coverage for some of my stuff (especially padded drum bags for half a dozen kits), but the adhesive idea should work quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted January 30, 2012 CMS Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 I can't believe I never thought of that. I used to work weekends at a backline company with a huge inventory, and all the stencils were uber-clean... Couldn't figure out why I had such a challenge using the exact same brass stencils, ink and pad/roller as what's at that shop. I have struggled with getting clean and solid coverage for some of my stuff (especially padded drum bags for half a dozen kits), but the adhesive idea should work quite well. I've used the stencil adhesive you can buy at art supply stores for sticking plastic stencils to walls for home decorating. It's like gaffer....sticky enough to work, not so sticky it damages anything, and it doesn't leave a residue if you take it off within a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Don Davis Posted January 31, 2012 Members Share Posted January 31, 2012 If you do a google search for custom stencils you'll get plenty of results for companies that will make exactly what you need. We ordered a few in different sizes, they are some type of plastic material, very durable and not overly expensive. We use flat white on the flat black portion of our gear. If you need to change it, respray with flat black and start over. Works for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Alan Roberts Posted January 31, 2012 Members Share Posted January 31, 2012 Nice. There's a Michaels in my area. So you take the letters, use them as a guide and makeA stencil right? (God I feel like such a N00B) I have always removed the parts of the letters - you're left with the "outline" that you then use to trace the letters and numbers onto the material you're going to use for the actual stencil. I like to use glossy posterboard to make the stencil on. The gloss seems to keep the adheisive from sticking too much and damaging the stencil when you remove it. Trace the letters and numbers or art onto the posterboard, then cut it all out. Use a bit of adheisive to hold it tight against the surface of what you're going to stencil so that it doesn't run underneath and then either spray or roll on the paint to fill in the stencil. Use enough material when making the stencil to mask off any surrunding area from paint mist if you're going to spray. I've seen paint "pens" recently that might also work. They look like magic markers but contain paint. I hope that helps - it's more difficult to describe than it is to actually do. Maybe you could find a tutorial on youtube so that you could actually get a visual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BillESC Posted February 1, 2012 Members Share Posted February 1, 2012 Apollo Design makes roadcase stencils in various sizes. Available in plastic and steel, they offer a number of stock designs as well as custom with your logo or artwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmart Posted February 1, 2012 Members Share Posted February 1, 2012 Apollo Design makes roadcase stencils in various sizes. Available in plastic and steel, they offer a number of stock designs as well as custom with your logo or artwork. If I was just stenciling a single logo/name, that's the way I'd go. Unfortunately, I'm also looking to use the stencils to easily indicate what's inside the container without having to open it; for hard cases, it's which combo amp, or which PA or lighting tub (cables, or par cans, etc.). But the biggest need is for padded drum bags; 6 kits and a dozen snares in black H&B Tuxedo bags...which drum is which? I want to spray logo/name and a kit name/diameter code (For example, the 10-16" Premier toms would be P10, P12, P14, P16, and the kick would be P22; the 12-18" Ludwig Vistalites would be V12, V13, V14, V16, V18, etc., and the kicks would be V22 & V24, etc.). I'm picking up some of that adhesive spray soon, and hope to spend the better part of a weekend plowing through all the drum bags, as that's the lion's share of the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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