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Using 1.2v instead of 1.4v batteries in IEM receiver?


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measure the voltage of your batteries. you will be surprised to find out that they are not 1.4 and 1.2 volts.

 

a avery interesting arguement/discussion may ensue, but the rated voltage is the near-dead voltage.

 

do it. measure the batteries.

 

report back the bizarre readings you see.

 

i dare you.

 

i triple bacon dog dare you (now you have to)

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Battery voltage is nominal and generally end up being the flattest portion of the discharge curve slope. For a 1.5 volt alkaline cell, it's about 1.6V when new, and about 1.25-1.3V at full discharge.

 

Different battery chemistries have different discharge characteristics.

 

Note that some devices have an automatic shut-off down around 1.25V to protect against over-discharge and leaking. This can cause erratic and unpredictable results. It depends on the power management circuitry involved inside the device.

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measure the voltage of your batteries. you will be surprised to find out that they are not 1.4 and 1.2 volts.


a avery interesting arguement/discussion may ensue, but the rated voltage is the near-dead voltage.


do it. measure the batteries.


report back the bizarre readings you see.


i dare you.


i triple bacon dog dare you (now you have to)

Wow! A triple bacon dog dare, I just can't resist. :) A freshly charged Maha Powerex 2700 maH battery is 1.344 V not under load.

 

Anyway, in response to the OP, I've been using rechargeable batteries almost exclusively for 3 years and haven't had a problem with using them in the Sennheiser G2/3 product. Check with the manufacturer of your product first if you have any concerns/questions.

Best.

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Ok, I'm just gonna go for it. Found some additional information on their website. It didn't specify voltage, but the fact that it said it's ok to use them and none of them are the same voltage as what the manual says to use, I'm assuming it shouldn't matter.

 

http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/site/4ffc7039c199613a/index.html/index.html#batterylife

 

 

Nickel metal hydride (also called NiMH or NH) batteries are a more acceptable choice for a rechargeable battery. Premium models are true 9-volt designs and have about 60-70 percent greater capacity than most premium ni-cad batteries. Because of the extra capacity, operating life is typically about 5 hours, which may be adequate for some applications. The most important advantage of nickel metal hydride batteries, however, is that they are essentially free of the "memory effect" that is so troublesome in ni-cad batteries. Unfortunately, these advantages come at a price; premium NiMH batteries generally cost $20 or more.

 

 

 

Thanks for the replies.

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Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are all 1.2 volts BUT stay at this voltage for a very long time, even with high drain devices - why they are excellent for digital cameras. However, when they go down, they go down FAST. Alkalines generally start new at 1.5 volts or slightly more, but this voltage gradually decreases in a predictable manner. Alkalines also do not deal well with constant high drain use, why they are terrible in digital cameras. If you want the longest lasting, lithiums are good BUT expensive. In a cordless mic application, I'm not convinced NIMH will be much better than alkaline. I use Duracell 9 volts in my Shure mic with good results. I've got tons of rechargeable batteries (mostly AAs and AAAs) but have found them to be best in low drain devices such as LED flashlights. After a few discharge/recharge cycles they quickly lose their capacity.

 

Al

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Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are all 1.2 volts BUT stay at this voltage for a very long time, even with high drain devices - why they are excellent for digital cameras. However, when they go down, they go down FAST. Alkalines generally start new at 1.5 volts or slightly more, but this voltage gradually decreases in a predictable manner. Alkalines also do not deal well with constant high drain use, why they are terrible in digital cameras. If you want the longest lasting, lithiums are good BUT expensive. In a cordless mic application, I'm not convinced NIMH will be much better than alkaline. I use Duracell 9 volts in my Shure mic with good results. I've got tons of rechargeable batteries (mostly AAs and AAAs) but have found them to be best in low drain devices such as LED flashlights. After a few discharge/recharge cycles they quickly lose their capacity.


Al

 

Hi Al,

IME NiMH AA batteries are much better than a standard alkaline in wireless devices. In every single test I've done NiMH batteries last longer than their alkaline counterparts. I also have not experienced a loss in capacity. Which batteries are you using?

 

The lithium 8.4 v batteries from ipower also last just as long as alkalines and they have a superior maH rating, too. I've never had a battery fail in three years. For success using rechargeables you need to do your research, be diligent with testing, and manage expectations. Rechargeables aren't for everybody, but one can be more economically and ecologically responsible by doing just a couple things to get the most out of your battery.

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With my current Shure headset mic AA system, the Alkalines last longer, but I'm getting about 10 hours out of NiMH batteries. That's two shows and works for me. My Saxman on the other hand, uses a single AAA on his transmitter and the NiMH didn't provide enough voltage to work even fully charged. (Older single channel UHF system.)

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You assume wrong, but it may work in your particular device. It may not as well, and the useful life may be shorter than you expect.

 

 

As someone else pointed out, all NIMH AA's are 1.2v, so there's really no other conclusion to draw when a manufacturer says NIMH will work.

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As someone else pointed out, all NIMH AA's are 1.2v, so there's really no other conclusion to draw when a manufacturer says NIMH will work.

 

 

Yes you may think it's this simple but in fact, but some manufacturers say they will NOT work, or their technical specs. and testing clearly indicate that they will NOT work. Also, battery meters will NOT correctly indicate state of charge, and units with low voltage shutdown will be the ones that are most likely not to work properly. I do this as a day job, I am probably just a little more experienced in this area than you are.

 

I have designed several products using (3V) battery power, and with the charge management IC's available, some have a low voltage shutdown option at right about 2.4 volts. The reason is to prevent over-discharge and damage to the battery seals. It's also to prevent under-run of the switching oscillators.

 

Here's an example of a switching regulator used in these kinds of products that would accept a nominal 9 volt input and shuts down when the battery falls to ~7.5 volts. http://www.st.com/internet/com/TECHNICAL_RESOURCES/TECHNICAL_LITERATURE/DATASHEET/CD00257415.pdf

 

There are 2 possible and entirely valid conclusions to draw from this.

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