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Martin D35 with rosewood & mahogany back


bmast160

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The D-35 with its three piece back (and 1/4 inch braces) was originally created to use up some of the last of the Brazilian that was too small for a two piece back. It gained a following because of its strong bass - there have been a few forum members who have them. All of the recent 35's have been completely EIR except for a recent production run of a few with some old stock Braz (as I recall they had a stratospheric price).

 

I'm afraid that if you wanted mahogany and rosewood you are looking at a custom - both Martin and many small time builders could make if for you. However if its punch you want a D-18 is about as punchy as you can get.

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no d-18. not looking for an all mahogany back.

 

looking for a mix of rosewood and mahogany on the back/sides. a tone wood in between rosewood and mahogany would work too. the mix on the seth avett d-35 is closer to what i'm looking for. it's interesting - sounds like it has a little more fundamental and punch than the standard d-35, but more complex than a mahogany back. i'm not really into buying a custom artist guitar though - feel like i'm overpaying. :/

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The only thing that the D-35 offers that is of real significance here is the 1/4 inch bracing of the D-35 as compared to the 3/8 inch bracing on most of the other models. You are spending too much time worrying about the makeup of the back. The wood in the back and sides does make a difference, but not enough to make a quest out of it.

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. . . the mix on the seth avett d-35 is closer to what i'm looking for. it's interesting - sounds like it has a little more fundamental and punch than the standard d-35' date=' but more complex than a mahogany back. i'm not really into buying a custom artist guitar though - feel like i'm overpaying. :/[/quote']

The "standard" D35 is $2599: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/D35/. The difference is $650. Yes, you're paying a premium but probably less than you would for something from the Custom Shop. If you're set on something like the Seth Avett, that's probably your best bet. That said, FretFiend is right; you're overthinking things.

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By the way, I've never heard of a D-35 with mahogany on the back. The backs are usually (I thought always) three pieces of rosewood. I had one for a while. It sounded great, but the frets didn't fit the bound neck very well - they tended to separate, and me high E string was always getting caught under frets.

 

Now I have a D-28, and it sounds just as good and handles much better.

 

Anyhow - mahogany? Really?

 

Del

http://www.thefullertons.net

( •)—:::

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The only thing that the D-35 offers that is of real significance here is the 1/4 inch bracing of the D-35 as compared to the 3/8 inch bracing on most of the other models. You are spending too much time worrying about the makeup of the back. The wood in the back and sides does make a difference' date=' but not enough to make a quest out of it.[/quote']

 

Right! People will argue forever about whether Lincolns are better than Cadillacs or Chevys are better than Fords. A lot of guitar mythology is just that: mythology. For instance, mahogany is supposedly better for flat- and finger-picking and rosewood is supposedly better for strumming. But if you listen to actual players, it quickly becomes obvious that flat pickers can sound great on rosewood and strummers can sound great on mahogany. Rory Block loves playing rosewood, and I, for one, am not going to straighten her out.

 

Most of the sound of an acoustic comes from the top. Other materials do matter, but it's not just the material. The bracing pattern, wood thickness, the set-up, strings, and wood quality all matter - especially the set-up! - but it's mainly what you do with it. If you like playing a guitar, how it got that way doesn't matter. So try a lot, and when you find one you love at a price you can handle, you're there.

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looking for a mix of rosewood and mahogany on the back/sides. a tone wood in between rosewood and mahogany would work too. the mix on the seth avett d-35 is closer to what i'm looking for. it's interesting - sounds like it has a little more fundamental and punch than the standard d-35, but more complex than a mahogany back. i'm not really into buying a custom artist guitar though - feel like i'm overpaying. :/

 

Why do you think that gluing a couple of pieces of different tonewood together is going to give you the best characteristics of each? Are you going to make the center rose or hog, which for the wings, how about the sides? How are you going to brace it (remember that a two piece and three piece back are braced differently)? Personally I think it will look butt-ugly but that's not important. I'm also assuming that you want plain old Sitka on top (why not Adi or torrefacted or....?) and the usual 1/4 inch braces...

 

Actually, a wood you might consider is koa - must of us use it for its looks but it is supposed to be somewhere between mahogany and rosewood in tone. Here is what Taylor says about it - Martin also has koa instruments (quoted from current issue of Wood and Steel)

 

A fairly dense tropical hardwood, koa shares some of the same properties as

mahogany, namely a strong midrange focus, typically with a bit of extra top-end

brightness and chime. The more a koa guitar is played and has a chance to open

up — especially an all-koa guitar — the more its midrange overtones add a sense

of warmth and sweetness to its voice. Koa’s initial brightness can be softened by

fingerstylists who play with the pads of their fingers.

 

 

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Harry Fleishman (and others) have been building guitars out of mixed tonewoods for years

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTZBGOm878LKMM7wkUl_e2S5F79hWpJZNKlODafdTwHAShE4fcN

 

Most of the time you see it on tops where the builder will pair spruce on one side and usually cedar on the other, trying somehow to get the "best" of both.

 

I've actually got some scraps of rosewood and mahogany out in my shop - I could build you whatever you want. Be a good way to get rid of it.

 

 

 

 

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Could be. I recently read a claim by a well known luthier saying he could build a guitar to sound like (whatever) and tone wood did not factor into it.

 

His initials are BS but the thread he made such a comment in got vaporized by the AGF constabulary. I made a Search on it. Evidently it tampered with too many sensitivities. Whatever. I made an inflammatory comment that if it came down to using only mud and straw materials to build guitars in the aftermath, mine would have a Goodall label on it. Truth is always best.

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I agree that the back and sides species contribute very little to a guitars sound. It's all in the soundboard and how you shape the wood. Imagine 2 marimbas. One with all of the keys the exact same size but all different species of wood. "Bright" maple to the right and softer "deeper" woods on the left. Now is that going to work as well as a marimba that's all one wood but different size/shape keys?

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I'd totally recommend just playing a lot of guitars until you find the one that has the sound in your head. I think you're fooling yourself if you think you can achieve some specific result by mixing and matching species as if you're adding spice to a steak.

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I'd totally recommend just playing a lot of guitars until you find the one that has the sound in your head. I think you're fooling yourself if you think you can achieve some specific result by mixing and matching species as if you're adding spice to a steak.

 

I think you are absolutely right. i owned a D35 for a few years and itr was a nice instrument that mostly was stable and strong with excellent bass response. Truth is that it didn't have that punch that I expected it was going to get when I bought it. It was maybe even the slightest bit dull sounding. I finally sold it.

 

My Yairi is a totally different story. It is Mahogany lam b/s with Sitka top. It is a generic D18 to tell the truth. Don't be fooled by the lam B/S, It has all the punch I would ever expect from any guitar. It is the naturally loudest guitar I ever owned, I mean a cannon. I was lucky to get it! It ain't no Martin....but who cares?

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This argument about back wood seems to come up every now and then. Negligible is in the ears of the beholder. I have never heard a mahogany backed guitar (solid) that has sounded anything like a rosewood backed guitar. They have two distinct sounds. Mahogany has a clearer, brighter sound whereas rosewood has a darker more mellow sound. No amount of tweaking braces will ever change that fact because it is a matter of the woods density, stiffness, moisture content not a luthiers manipulative ability.

 

BigAl

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I think he'll get the worst of both woods - mahogany's lack of complexity and rosewood's lack of punch.

 

I don't know what the outcome would be Freeman, but I'm in my right mind so I would never try it. Why make a back 70% rosewood and the rest mahogany? That small amount of mahogany would probably just detract from the sound. Now if it were 1/2 rosewood, 1/2 mahogany and the mahogany was on the bass side of the guitar.....you'd probably have an extremely loud bass and a soft treble or if the rosewood were on the bass side you would probably have a soft bass and an extremely loud treble, or if the upper bout was rosewood and the lower bout was mahogany......LOL

 

BigAl

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It's back.....!

 

http://www.martinguitar.com/custom-shop-114/build-your-custom.html

 

According to that app, the basic mahogany/rosewood D-35 would have an MSRP of $3,934.00. IIRC customs don't get a markdown.

 

I went hog wild: Adi topped HD-35 with quilted mahogany center wedge, grained ivoroid binding, chrome butterbean tuners and boxed cross inlays : $7,326.00

 

If you're going to dream, dream BIG. Same guitar: Madagascar Rosewood with flamed maple center wedge and Italian spruce top, silver inlay and chrome hardware with white/MOP pins, and carbon fiber case: $13.403.00

 

Can ya feel da GASSSSSSSSSSSSSS????

 

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