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210 cab build


Belva
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The cab build itself, with the pocket hole joinery, took about 2 hours. I'll be making more jigs for my next build/s which will be square. I'll be able to produce 4 as fast as one, so about 3 hours total time. I also think I'm gonna use 4 toggle type latches to make the builds faster and easier for the removable back. I'm also not crazy about the strength of the briefcase style latches. This method requires too much custom fitting and adjustment to make production feasible. Overall it sounds good and there is a notable difference between open and closed back. BTW the finish is Duratech speaker cab coating. A bit spendy, but cheaper than tolex, specially when you add in labor cost. I also won't be adding speakers. Customers can install their own.

Edited by Belva
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I've tried brush on bedliner which is stanky stuff. The speaker cab coating is roughly the same price and is latex. I may try the spray on route later if this turns into a money maker. Cost isn't cheap as I'm using all cab grade or Baltic birch plywood. My experience is that shop grade ply will work IF you don't get a piece with voids. When you get that, the speaker vibration will make the void/s delaminate into a mess.

And yes, I've used the Rustoleum spray and it gets spendy! Liquid with the right tip for my spray gun would work.

http://www.speakerhardware.com/duratex-roller-grade.php

You can get this straight from the manufacturer. With my bidness license I prolly can get about a 15% price break buying in quantity. And later get a hopper gun to apply it mainly for speed of manufacture

Edited by Belva
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I liek shop tredds to... Right now I'm thinking of building some two string humbuckers... Something for a separate independent signal from my e and a strings to run thru this octabass octave divider... Add bass or sub bass in certain passages or tunes... I've given up on the stereo insanity for now...

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I like teh removable back... How wide izzdat Beeyatch? A couple o tens wood cum in handy now and again...

11&7/8". Why? 12" seems to be a sweet spot tone wise. I settled on 1/8" less because I can get 4 equal pieces out of a 4X8 sheet of cab grade birch ply. Gotta account for the saw blade width or 'kerf'. 1/8" shorter doesn't matter, at least that's what my GF tells me.

Edited by Belva
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S6000149.jpg

This is my high tech red neck pocket hole clamping/squaring jig. found and fixt problem with it as seen. More details;

S6000151.jpg

I found the toggle clamps have to be closer to the corner otherwise the pieces would migrate. I also found that it would be handy to have a stop to butt the pieces up against. I have an old piece of 2X6 fir that's harder than a teenager OD'ed on Viagra, so I squared up a piece and installed it nice and square.

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S6000152.jpg

I had to make a block so the toggle clamp would work with the xtra thickness of the 2X, but the end result will be much faster with more accurate results.

S6000150.jpg

Now I gotta move the clamps on the other side. BTW I spent nada on this jig as I have scrap wood, had pieces of an old solid core door and have/had the toggle clamps. I don't throw nuttin' away. I'll get a pic of the back side of this to show the shelf bracket keeping the 2 pieces square. Oh and I use a butt load of wood glue on all of my projects.

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S6000155.jpgS6000153.jpgS6000154.jpg

This is a jig I made for attaching the cleats for the backs and baffles. I used more of the 'teenager on Viagra' fir, so it should last awhile. I cut the rabbet 1&3/16 by 7/8 deep to give plenty of room. When I attach the 1/2" baffles and backs to the cleats that will leave 11/16" setback. Should be plenty to keep the latches from snagging on stuff. Plus I measured the distance from the edge to the baffle on my Peavey Bandit and came up with 3/4". Should work in the front and rear (DON'T GO THERE, VOLTAN!!).

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