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Power supply question


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I figure some of you here can probably answer this?

 

One of the keyboards I gig with is kind of a cheapy plastic thing with a wall wart power supply. The original wall-wart stopped working (the plug end started to short out) so I replaced it with a multi-voltage wall-wart from Radio Shack with the same amperage. It was working fine until the other night when it would power up the board but I had no audio output. In the process of checking things I thought maybe the voltage switch got moved. I remember from other experiences that lower voltage could sometimes result in keyboards powering up but not enough to send the audio signal.

 

It was set properly to 9V, but just to see what would happen I bumped it up to 12V and the keyboard worked fine.

 

Also this happened over two nights at two different venues. The first night I just didn't use that board for the gig. The next night, I had the same problem and that's when I switched the voltage, so it would seem that power from the venue is probably not the issue?

 

What's most likely the issue here? Something inside the keyboard? Something inside the wall-wart? Impossible to tell just from a description?

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Often, those inexpensive universal power supplies are underwhelming in their performance. What does your keyboard specify in terms of both voltage AND current? It may be that a 12v supply is correct, 9v sounds unusual for a small keyboard. If it's really 12v, I have a large quantity of high quality line lump supplies on my surplus shelf.

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Often, those inexpensive universal power supplies are underwhelming in their performance. What does your keyboard specify in terms of both voltage AND current? It may be that a 12v supply is correct, 9v sounds unusual for a small keyboard. If it's really 12v, I have a large quantity of high quality line lump supplies on my surplus shelf.

 

The original power supply was 9V/1200 mA. And it states 9V on the output jack.

 

I see now though that the replacement I bought was only 1000 mA, so maybe that was the issue. Although it's worked fine for the last year or so.

 

 

 

 

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You can't go wrong buying the OEM part, but I'm the kind of guy who will just order a compatible part from an electronics vendor, whenever I'm making my next order with them. I keep a factory brick in my gig bag, a separate brick in the practice hall, and a spare multi-voltage brick in my power cable bag that I plan to never use. It's my intention to gig with the brick from the practice hall, and to treat the OEM brick as a backup.

 

Ordering them from a large vendor that I regularly do business with (Digikey, Mouser, Newark) helps amortize shipping cost, and gives me the opportunity to get the product in whatever form-factor works best for me...right angle connector, straight connector, off to one side, powerbar outlet blocker, lump in a cord, hideway prongs, etc.

 

Here's a few from Digikey that you might like....make sure you get a part with the correct polarity and plug barrel size!

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/WSU090-1300-R/237-1452-ND/3094978

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/WSU090-1300/237-1451-ND/3094977

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/WSU090-2000/237-1425-ND/3094951

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/EPSA090130U-P5RP-EJ/T1188-P5RP-ND/2792484

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/EPSA090130U-P5P-EJ/T1060-P5P-ND/2235252

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/VEP24US09/1470-2336-ND/4488715

. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/KTPS36-0940DT%203P/62-1170-ND/2708948

...many more that might work for you

 

The last time I opened up one of those multi-voltage dealies, it was an unregulated linear power supply, where the switch selected which secondary transformer tap was sent to the rectifier. I do not like unregulated power supplies, because the precise voltage that comes out of it depends on the input voltage, which can vary considerable in a stage environment. They are also more likely to cause 120Hz hum problems. I do not like linear power supplies because they are more expensive and heavier than switch mode power supplies. I also prefer buying universal (100-250VAC) supplies whenever possible. No good reason, just one less thing to worry about.

 

BTW the first time I plug a power supply into a keyboard, I always check the polarity with a meter. Stuff happens.

 

Wes

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yeah either buy the original or get a wart with the same voltage and HIGHer amperage. I have a bag of old PSs over the past 20 years and I can usually find something in there that powers about anything... if the line adapter fits the device.

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