Members JVanDe7 Posted April 26, 2008 Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 Please see the attached schematic. How hard would it be for me to build this fuzz? I have done a BYOC FuzzFace clone. I've also modded a Crybaby for true bypass, removed the input buffer, and swapped a few of its resistors to get the gain and volume where I wanted it. Thank you. (I used to own one of these pedals [Maestro MFZ-1] but I didn't like the fact that it was so old and delicate. True bypass addition to the circuit would be a huge plus of course). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kyrreca Posted April 26, 2008 Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 Is that the FZ-1? You could use this vero layout. Shouldn't be to hard if you have some soldering experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JVanDe7 Posted April 26, 2008 Author Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 It's the MFZ-1 by Maestro. Not the same pedal. Thanks for the link though. After looking at that site, I came up with these though, it appears as if someone has "improved" the design slightly somehow (can't tell exactly what they did since i'm a novice, looks like they changed the pot values and some resistor values maybe?, are these smart moves?) and done all the leg work. SO, can I use these? Does anyone see any potential problems? What would I need to do basically? (I've never had to start from scratch before). I can tell what most of the parts are and I put a list together on Smallbear. Couple questions though... 1. The 2.2 50v caps look like they are supposed to have a positive side, but Smallbear only carries Radial Electrolytic 50v caps that are NON polarized. Is it ok to use these or should I seek out the specified caps? 2. The jacks for input/output, do they need to be stereo or mono or one of each? Sorry for the rookie questions, and thanks for any help you can provide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members smrz Posted April 26, 2008 Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 I can tell what most of the parts are and I put a list together on Smallbear. Couple questions though...1. The 2.2 50v caps look like they are supposed to have a positive side, but Smallbear only carries Radial Electrolytic 50v caps that are NON polarized. Is it ok to use these or should I seek out the specified caps?2. The jacks for input/output, do they need to be stereo or mono or one of each?Sorry for the rookie questions, and thanks for any help you can provide. 1. Yes. Non-polarized caps will work fine...I'm surprised though, that the small bear caps aren't polarised. 2. You generally want a stereo in so that you can disconnect power when the guitar cord isn't in the jack. Here are some wiring diagrams: http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JVanDe7 Posted April 26, 2008 Author Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 Thanks for the answers. Yeah, they have polarized caps but not 50v radial ones. Anyone else care to take a stab at explaining what the "improvements" might do to change the sound of the pedal? As I mentioned, by looking at the original schematic and comparing it to the "improved" one, it seems he changed the "drive" pot to a 10k linear, whereas the original called for a 100k linear pot. Also the volume pot has been changed to a 100k audio pot from a 25k audio pot. Also some of the cap and resistor values are different. I'm nervous, but this should be a fun experiment, even if it never works. I have good soldering skills and my BYOC fuzz I built from a kit turned out well and was nice and neat. Is it likely that I can do this using some perfboard? I've never used it before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JVanDe7 Posted April 26, 2008 Author Members Share Posted April 26, 2008 bump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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