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Pedals suddenly popping when switched on.


panther_king

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So, suddenly, and without a reason known to me, all my 3PDT (I'll assume that's what they all are) switched pedals are making a pop when I turn them on.

 

Now, this has NEVER been the case before. I could pop the switches on and off all day and not hear a peep. Suddenly (after unplugging everything during my vacation) my pedals are making a damned noise. :mad:

 

Any ideas?

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I'm using a 1 spot; same one I've used for awhile (but not a long while... should still be 'okay).

 

My poppers are my Keeley Flexi TS-9DX, Duncan Pick-up Booster, Catalinbread Ottava Magus bantum box, and my Blackout Whetstone. My wah, decimator, DD-5, and Pitch Black dont pop, but the former 3 are all buffered, and the latter has a different switch all together. They've never had an issue before, and I'm thinking it's gotta be the power, right? I don't think I've surpassed the mV rating on the 1-spot, and never had the issue before with the same pedals. Then again, I never did the math on the power draw.

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This probably isn't it, but my bassman was popping pedals and I finally read an article saying that can be caused by voltage running on the line that would build up and then pop when the signal interrupted by the true bypass switch returned and dropped the voltage back to zero. This is sometimes due to a faulty tube leaking voltage onto the path.

 

I tested it by measuring the voltage on the cable from the input jack and sure enough, there was consistently .5 volts on the line.

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This probably isn't it, but my bassman was popping pedals and I finally read an article saying that can be caused by voltage running on the line that would build up and then pop when the signal interrupted by the true bypass switch returned and dropped the voltage back to zero. This is sometimes due to a faulty tube leaking voltage onto the path.


I tested it by measuring the voltage on the cable from the input jack and sure enough, there was consistently .5 volts on the line.

 

 

 

...soooooooooooooooooo how did you fix it?

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The input capacitor in the amp (just like the input and output capacitors in pedal circuits) is meant to block any DC voltage from leaking into the signal. If it still does, replacing the capacitor will usually fix the problem. If it's the amp that's leaking DC, sticking a buffered pedal (that you know doesn't leak itself, of course) between the amp and the rest of the pedals should cure the pop. If it's one of the pedals, it's the same thing - a buffered pedal (or any pedal that's turned on) will block the DC voltage. Finding the culprit is a little harder, though, since you have to move the "blocking" pedal up and down the signal chain, and switch pedals on/off to see where the pop starts and where it ends.

 

For instance, if pedal 3 is leaking DC at the output, if you turn pedal 4 on the popping should stop in pedal 5 and on to the amp. If pedal 3 is leaking DC at the input, turning pedal 2 on (or inserting a buffered/active pedal before pedal 3) should stop the popping in pedal 1.

 

Obviously, measuring for voltage across the input (from hot to ground) and output of each pedal is quicker. There will often be a couple of millivolts, but nowhere near 0.5v or more. If there's that much, that pedal is causing the problem.

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From the input of the amp, testing from a non-guitared other end.


I gathered that's what Preacher was aiming at

 

 

Sorry, just checking in. Yes, that's exactly what I was talking about. Took me forever to dig something up, then I found a TGP thread that addressed it. A dude over there posting under the name Jack DeVille posted this:

 

 

How would I solve this?

first thing to do is confirm that there is dc at the input of the amp.


Here's a quick lil check:


Take your favorite cable and plug it into each input. I always start at the left for consistency, but whatever works for you. Hell, you could only check the input you use, as its the only one giving you a hard time, but I prefer to take a thorough approach. YMMV.


Take your favorite meter and start at the 200VDC scale (20VDC is probably sufficient, but its easier to turn the dial than replace your meter), unless your meter is auto-ranging, then....


Negative meter lead to sleeve of cable, positive to tip. Check to see if any voltage is present. If you can't see it at 200VDC, move to 20VDC, if you can't see it at 20VDC, move to 2VDC. If you can't see it or would like better resolution, move to 200mV.


In a perfect world/vacuum, there will not be any voltage between the tip and sleeve of your cable. Back to reality. A little will be present. Its just life and physics. The exact permissible voltage level will be dependent on many factors, pre-amp design as the most notable. Hopefully, its less than 20mV.


So, if you've got a good bit of voltage there, try replacing the pre-amp tube that the signal FIRST SEES. I prefer to power the amp down, but everyone has their own methods.


With your fancy-shmancy new tube installed, power everything up again and check to see if you've still got DC present. Maybe you do? Maybe you don't.

A funky not-so-bitchin preamp tube can cause DC to leak out of the amplifier, creating the potential for some pedals to "pop" regardless of design practices observed. "Good" designs will pop given the right circumstances, "bad" designs will be quiet given the right circumstances.


Even if there is a DC present, try your pedal setup. Maybe the forces that be don't like the combination last used.


If you've still got DC and a pop sound, you may consider having someone look at it. Or tear in there and start cutting and gluing!

Just observe general safety precautions, and wait till you're finished to start sluggin beers!

 

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So anyway, yeah, I needed to replace a preamp tube. Incidentally the OP in that TGP thread posted right before "Jack DeVille"...

 

 

Problem solved by simply replacing the EH 12AX7 in V1 with a NOS Mullard 12AT7. I had no idea that the original amp spec'd a 12AY7!

 

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