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Painting my strat. please advise.


goodhonk

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I think you need a heat gun to get the poly coat off.


Also, I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but i think all MIM Fenders that have a grain pattern (sunburst, blonde) use a laminate on each side. Fakegrain.

 

 

Oddly, my toronado which never had a trans finish until it was refinished, also has some sort of grain laminate as far as I can tell.

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advice? don't paint it

 

 

I gotta second (or third or fourth) this. It's a hassle and a half to strip and then painting is a pain in the ass. I have a Strat body mostly stripped waiting for paint but I want it done right so I'm waiting for a local guy to free up some time. I stripped it with a heat gun and a chisel which worked better than a plastic scraper. Not worth the effort at all.

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do i need anything else? do i need all this?


sandpaper, sand & sealer, clear coat, paint.



http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/fingradsanpa.html


http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/sanandsealar.html


http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/nitclearcoat.html


http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/sonicblue.html




Hold on there pardner! Is it an ash body? If so, you'll need grain filler. If it's alder, you can probably get away with skipping it. If you're refinishing an older, beat up body with lots of dings, you should definitely fill the holes and use grain filler IMO. http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/oilbasgrainf.html

After you do the sand and sealer, you should use primer. This will prevent you from needing as much of the color to properly cover the body. If you don't prime the wood, expect to need two cans of sonic blue instead of one. I use BIN white shellac primer, but the ReRanch stuff is fine too, and theirs is actual lacquer. http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/whitlacbaspr.html

You should also get a bottle of Finesse It II. http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/finitiipolco.html That's for the final polishing after the wet sanding.

I've got a can of Blush-Out sitting around somewhere, but I don't think you're likely to need one - not in the spring. If it's humid where you are, better to wait until it isn't and then paint... you want 40-60% relative humidity - if you ignore that advice, get a can of Blush-Out - you're going to need it. ;) Odds are, it's not going to be an issue.

That should probably do it. :)

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Oops - should have read the whole thread first, then replied. :o

 

do i sand the original finish or am i supposed to use a stripper?


i was gonna use the reranch rattle can to apply.

 

Sand it kind of to a matte finish with 400 grit sandpaper. You're not trying to remove the old finish, just scuff it and dull it up evenly and completely.

 

Then use the Zinsser BIN White Shellac Primer. Stuff's great. Be careful and rehearse on a scrap piece of wood - it sprays "hot" and if you put it on too heavy, it will run. Just mist it, wait a few minutes and mist it again, etc. Once you get the hang of it, you can put the next couple coats on a little heavier. Three passes equals a coat. Three coats, with two hours between them for drying time, is all it should need. Let it dry overnight. Then you can sand that with 600 grit and paint it with the lacquer.

 

Shellac is a great primer over poly finishes since it adheres to practically anything, and is compatible with both poly and lacquer.

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