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Jazzmaster peeps. Again, and it's about a jazzmaster bridge...who'da'thunkit


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AVRI jazzmaster ETC. bought the allparts mustang bridge, and it doesn't buzz on open, but when playing high up bends it buzzes, it's not fret buzz, it's behind the bridge and on the saddles it sounds like. I'm thinking about switching back to the original bridge(i think it was set up with 10's before) will the strings move around a ton if i use 11's? It's currently got 11's. Or if anyone has a cheat to make this mustang bridge work i'd be happy :D

 

It's mainly the g string for what it's worth, that {censored} buzzes everywhere, and it makes a weird plucking sound

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The ringing behind the bridge is supposedly what so many people love about the design. If it bothers you, get a buzz stop and try that.

 

Actually, what you probably would be best advised to do IMHO is to take the guitar to a good tech and get a decent setup job done on it. It's too nice a guitar to DIY around on if you don't know exactly what you're doing - and a JM can be a touchy beast to set up.

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I know steven's problems well. It's not ringing behind the bridge but buzzing. I was trying to help him trouble shoot this and to me it sounds like maybe the string is vibrating against that lip on the back of the bridge.

 

Or maybe a screw vibration?

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Or maybe a screw vibration?

 

 

This would be my guess, I have the modified Mustang bridge on my Jazzmaster and the screws vibrate like crazy. Loctite is apparently the solution, I haven't gotten around to getting any though as my Mascis has been getting most of my attention as of late.

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I got my first Jazzmaster a couple months ago. Do a bunch of research on how to set it up and the stock bridge will work fine. Here is the short rundown:

 

1. use the grub screws on the saddles to get the right radius

2. use the screws in the bridge to raise or lower the whole bridge

3. be careful with the combination of both above so that you don't get too much of an angle on the D and G saddle intonation screws that the string hits them.

4. Loctite everything once you have it setup.

5. You may need to shim the neck to get the right angle for everything

6. Due to lower string tension, higher guage strings work better (I use .12s)

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HP, which bridge would you recommend then?

 

 

The Fender Mustang bridge (part #0035555000), the ones used on the '65 Mustang reissue. Most of the aftermarket ones used the wrong molds, so there's space between the saddles. The string tension causes the saddles to move and butt up against each other, which makes the strings closer together than they should be at the bridge.

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I got my first Jazzmaster a couple months ago. Do a bunch of research on how to set it up and the stock bridge will work fine. Here is the short rundown:


1. use the grub screws on the saddles to get the right radius

2. use the screws in the bridge to raise or lower the whole bridge

3. be careful with the combination of both above so that you don't get too much of an angle on the D and G saddle intonation screws that the string hits them.

4. Loctite everything once you have it setup.

5. You may need to shim the neck to get the right angle for everything

6. Due to lower string tension, higher guage strings work better (I use .12s)

 

 

this, and especially number 6.

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It's a pretty small hex wrench - 1.5mm for the MIJ models, and 0.050" for the USA stuff. A 1/16" (0.0625") wrench is too large, and 1/32" (0.0313") is too small. It's a weird old size, and not guaranteed to be available on your typical allen wrench set.

 

You can get them online if your guitar didn't come with one (and they do as part of the original accessory pack for the AVRI models):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Real-Fender-Jaguar-Bridge-Height-Screws-Allen-Wrench-/310309032590?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item483fdc128e

 

http://angela.com/jaguarjazzmasterbridgesaddleheightallenwrenches.aspx

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There's another way to do it, although it's much more time consuming... loosen the strings, pull the bridge out, and use your fingers to turn the end of the adjustment pins so they move out further (thus increasing the bridge and string height). Insert bridge, re-tension strings, see if you got height right, if not, note if it needs to go higher or lower, loosen strings, remove bridge, make corrections, re-install bridge, re-tension strings and check, repeat, etc. etc.

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There's another way to do it, although it's much more time consuming... loosen the strings, pull the bridge out, and use your fingers to turn the end of the adjustment pins so they move out further (thus increasing the bridge and string height). Insert bridge, re-tension strings, see if you got height right, if not, note if it needs to go higher or lower, loosen strings, remove bridge, make corrections, re-install bridge, re-tension strings and check, repeat, etc. etc.

 

 

That'll work. im restringing today anyway. Thanks Phil!

If these things didn't play so good, feel so right in my hands, and sound awesome i wouldn't be a jazzmaster guy at all haha

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Setting up a stock vintage JM or Jag can be a PITB, that's for sure. :)

 

Get some blue (never red!) Loctite and use a dab of it on each allen screw after you get the height properly adjusted. It will prevent them from coming loose and rattling. The saddle height adjustment screws are notorious for that on the stock saddles. As long as you use the blue Loctite, you'll be able to break it loose with a allen wrench and readjust it if you need to later.

 

Buy a wrench. You're going to want / need it eventually.

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Setting up a stock vintage JM or Jag can be a PITB, that's for sure.
:)

Get some blue (never red!) Loctite and use a dab of it on each allen screw after you get the height properly adjusted. It will prevent them from coming loose and rattling. The saddle height adjustment screws are notorious for that on the stock saddles. As long as you use the blue Loctite, you'll be able to break it loose with a allen wrench and readjust it if you need to later.


Buy a wrench. You're going to want / need it eventually.

 

The .50 fits :)

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I've owned a ton of jags and mustangs myself, and I'm on my third jazzmaster now, probably my favorite geetar in the world.

Lots of truth in this thread, impo it basicly comes down to this:

 

- '65 ri mustang bridge. No aftermarket crap with saddles with small gaps between em. If you can manage to to find a mustang bridge without any spacing between the saddles, but with the added bonus of height adjustment screws: Get that. and let me know where I can find one too:)

I suppose a mastery bridge would work at leats as good if not better, but it's just not worth the $$ impo.

 

- Adjusting those annoying screws for the bridge height: I just take out the bridge and set them by hand.

 

- Use at least .11s. And even than, don't excpect your strings to never pop pop out of the saddles when you pick/strum hard.

 

- If you go with a bridge that has height adjusting screws, like the stock jazzmaster bridge: Follow Phil's Loctite advice, it's the only easy/cheap way to keep the saddles snug.

 

-If all else fails, have a qualified guitar tech set it up. Jazzmasters are indeed not the easiest guitars to set up if you insist on zero-buzz and perfect intonation/action:)

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Holy {censored} guys. When i bought this guitar it was set up with 10's and it wasn't that great. I told him, put a mustang bridge on it and set it up with 11's. It's been great since then, but, i just switched back to the original bridge with 11's and it's like.....amazing....I am in love, seriously, it's like my new number 1 instantly

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If it's perfect as-is with the original bridge, STOP and go get the Loctite RIGHT NOW before you play it anymore. It's only a couple of bucks, and you can get it at any hardware store. Put a drop on all the adjustment screws, or it's going to mess up on you - guaranteed.

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