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Ok, what am I doing wrong this time?


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footswitch problem methinks ?

 

 

That's what I figured, because it's supposed to be True Bypass so should be no circuitry that could interfere anyway. I just checked the switch with a multi-metre and as far as I can tell (I'm not exactly experienced with electronics) the switch is fine.

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I need a better grip on pedal electronics. I know that the sleeve is always connected to the sleeve, and it's also connected to the negative, or something along the lines of that and it's the tip that goes through all the processing, but I've been using my multimeter and when the pedal is active, and there's sound going through it, I can't get conductivity between the tips of each connector, yet when the pedal is bypassed, and no sound is going through, I get conductivity. One would think it'd be the other way around. I don't want to have to send it back and wait another 6 weeks, if not longer, just to get a functioning pedal -.-

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I don't know anything about electronics as well, but it doesnt harm to use a soldering iron and touch up the wire connections on the in- and output, also, if the contacts of the switch (the little metal lugs) are a bit loose so the metal lugs can be moved a little when pushed with a finger, I tend to replace the switch and that could solve it (I don't even know how to use a multimeter)
Also, I slam the pedal on the floor to try and fix it.
:facepalm:
mind you, in some cases, this solved whatever the problem was
:cool:

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Well, reports of tone suck have existed when the pedal is bypassed. Yours is sucking ALL of it.
:)



:lol::lol::lol::lol:
Yeah, my early 90s crybaby is a monster tone sucker & I don't think his model is true bypass either.

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if you get affected signal it can't be the jacks or the leads to the switch. I'm not exactly familiar with the way the bypass is wired on those (I can check mine after work), but if the switch works propely otherwise it pretty much has to be the jumper that connects in and out from the jacks when the pedal is in bypass. It could be the wire itself or either connection to the wire. That is provided the switch itself isn't defective which seems unlike if it makes connection to the board, but it could be possible.

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I need a better grip on pedal electronics. I know that the sleeve is always connected to the sleeve, and it's also connected to the negative, or something along the lines of that and it's the tip that goes through all the processing, but I've been using my multimeter and when the pedal is active, and there's sound going through it, I can't get conductivity between the tips of each connector, yet when the pedal is bypassed, and no sound is going through, I get conductivity. One would think it'd be the other way around. I don't want to have to send it back and wait another 6 weeks, if not longer, just to get a functioning pedal -.-

 

 

Actually, that's exactly what you'd expect. There shouldn't be continuity between the jack tips when the effect is on (at least not zero ohms) because the effect circuit is between the two jacks. When it's in bypass you would expect zero ohms continuity between the jack tips except in buffered pedals.

 

The 535Q has loading resistors on the input and output, even when it's in bypass. They're 2.2M each, so in parallel it's effectively 1.1M from the tip to ground. When the pedal is in bypass you should measure zero ohms from the tip of the input jack to the tip of the output jack, and 1.1M from the tip to the sleeve of either jack. If that's what you measure then the switch, wiring, and jacks are probably ok.

 

It's remotely possible that 1.1M resistance is causing problems with the signal upstream or downstream, but it's not something I've ever heard of happening. 1.1M is a pretty small load.

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Just checked out the foot switch with the multi-meter (which I should've done much sooner really), and I'm pretty sure it's dodgy. In the working position, the right two prongs are connected with the middle two prongs. In the non-functioning position, the left two prongs are connected to the middle to prongs, but the top right prong is still connected. One little tiny prong is the reason I can't get bypassed signal -.- Maybe someone a little more tech savvy can tell me whether that's right or not, but I like to hope that I know enough electronics to know that switches are not that complex so it's just a broken switch. So now I just need to find a DPDT footswitch, are they generically made to fit all PCBs? Because if they aren't, society sucks. I'll check out Jaycar, but I'll probably have to buy one online. Luckily it's circuitry that I feel comfortable fixing, it'll be easy to access. I'll wait to hear back from Dunlop first though. Thanks for all your help guys :)

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