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Skreddy Supa Tone


Moustache_Bash

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Colorsound Supa Tonebender was a pedal based on the Big Muff Pi, which I'm assuming the Skreddy is a clone or variant of. 4 transistor, silicon.

 

The Jumbo came out a few years later, 3 transistor, lacks gain of the Supa, sounds brighter and less muff-like.

 

From his description: http://skreddypedals.com/skreddy_pedals_supa.htm it sounds like it is based on the Supa and not the Jumbo.

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Colorsound Supa Tonebender was a pedal based on the Big Muff Pi, which I'm assuming the Skreddy is a clone or variant of. 4 transistor, silicon.


The Jumbo came out a few years later, 3 transistor, lacks gain of the Supa, sounds brighter and less muff-like.


From his description:
it sounds like it is based on the Supa and not the Jumbo.

 

 

Ah, thank you for the info.

 

Anybody know of any other Supa Tonebender clones?

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Ah, thank you for the info.


Anybody know of any other Supa Tonebender clones?

 

 

I don't know of any off the top of my head.

 

You may want to check if one of the builders here will make you one.

 

It's a Muff with Silicon instead of Germ, and it has the first stage of diodes removed

http://rkerkhof.ruhosting.nl/Taas/Mods/Big%20Muff.htm

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^^^You're correct.

I should've done a search first. From Sonic VI

 

There are two transistor stages in the Big Muff that have clipping diodes. In the Supa there are the same two stages but only the second one has the clipping diodes. If you remove the diodes from the first stage in the Big Muff then you have the primary difference between the two. They also use different transistors and have some different resistor values, but those make less of a difference. You could even put those diodes on a switch to go between the BM and Supa sounds.

 

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The difference between the "Jumbo" and the "Supa" is that the Jumbo omits the gain stage following the tone stack. This will not change the sound a whole lot except that it will not be as loud and the tone stack will be more sensitive to the impedance of whatever follows it.

 

A very important difference between the Colorsound line of Big Muff-variant Tone Benders and a regular muff is that the Colorsounds use a lower-gain transistor than Big Muffs generally have. The reason this is important is if you use a high-gain transistor, the signal level that hits the clipping section, even though there's only one instead of two, will be so high that it swamps that clipping section with such force that it will get all creamy and compressed just like a Big Muff. If you want your Supa/Jumbo clone to sound correct (notice I didn't say "good"), you want to use transistors with gains in the 300 Hfe zone (I have a bag of NOS BC183L's that are perfect). This allows the picking dynamics to come into play and the clipping section to have a raspy tone rather than a creamy tone.

 

I personally don't have much use for the Supa on guitar except when you turn down the sustain nearly (not all the way) off; then it sounds like a JCM900 amp. On bass I think it's amazing, though. For all its raspy ugliness on guitar it sounds really natural and amp-like on bass. You want the sustain fairly low or maybe halfway up and the tone fairly low too. One interesting thing about this pedal is its massive low end, which is another thing that makes it work so nicely on bass.

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^^^ Out of curiosity, which one is your favvy?

 

So DIY guys, in this schematic:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_ggg_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

 

Would I clip D3 and D4 to get my Supa on? And then I would short the pads (I've already built this on PCB) with some wire where the diodes were?

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^^^ Out of curiosity, which one is your favvy?


So DIY guys, in this schematic:



Would I clip D3 and D4 to get my Supa on? And then I would short the pads (I've already built this on PCB) with some wire where the diodes were?

 

 

Keeping in mind the transistor gain discussion I had earlier, you'd only have to put C6 on a switch (or simply omit it along with D1 and D2 if you don't want it switchable between BMP and Supa) to completely bypass the first clipping diodes.

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Keeping in mind the transistor gain discussion I had earlier, you'd only have to put C6 on a switch (or simply omit it along with D1 and D2 if you don't want it switchable between BMP and Supa) to completely bypass the first clipping diodes.

 

 

Right, I'm just curious to see what I end up with by doing this. Thanks, Skreddy! You da bes.

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MMmm yeah a switch would be a good idea. You may want to see if there is a way to toggle the last gain stage too while you are at it, as that was the difference between the Supa and the Jumbo.

 

 

I did this for a guy once. Used an on-on-on DPDT switch so one position used both pairs of diodes, the middle position removed the first set, and the last position removed both pairs of diodes. Cool little mod there.

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Just to say it's one of my favourite skreddy ( in the top three for me with the lunar module and the screwdriver) and I had quite a few. It has been on my board since I got it. It has its own sound, that really crosses the boards between a muff and a bender, and that's probably what makes it so unique. I totally love it !

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I personally don't have much use for the Supa on guitar except when you turn down the sustain nearly (not all the way) off; then it sounds like a JCM900 amp. On bass I think it's amazing, though. For all its raspy ugliness on guitar it sounds really natural and amp-like on bass. You want the sustain fairly low or maybe halfway up and the tone fairly low too. One interesting thing about this pedal is its massive low end, which is another thing that makes it work so nicely on bass.

 

I disagree, good Sir! ;)

 

I love it on the guitar, especially with me Tele with P90s in it. I wouldn't call it ugly, it sounds mean and edgy and not mufflike at all. I love it!

Beauty lies in the ear of the listener I guess...

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