Members michal888 Posted September 8, 2005 Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 I need your opininos about MXR Zakk Wylde Overdrive. What can you tell me about MXR sound quality? I can buy a new SD1 for a half price of used MXR, so I need to know, if MXR is really better than SD1. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Purplexi Posted September 8, 2005 Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 There is much discussion on this subject,just enter Boss SD-1 or Wylde Overedrive in the search box.I started with the SD-1,Bad Monkey and then the ZW-44 which redefines the role of the SD-1.I plan to try the Keeley modded SD-1 at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members michal888 Posted September 8, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 Thanks for reply. Anybody else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Daneswede1 Posted September 8, 2005 Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 The SD1 is used by Zakk Wylde actually which is funny because he still uses it today even afterthe ZW44 was released. The SD1 has a smooth yet slightly jagged ASYMMetrical , full medium gain overdrive with good overall frequency presentation: sounds its best of course driving a semi cranked tube amp. As far as the ZW 44, I have nothing to base it on. Tried it briefly through an old bassman head. SOunded like crap but is because as well this pedal needs to be run through a semi cranked tube amp (with slight breakup stock that is) to determine what kind of sustain it delivers. I have heard it is kind of noisy but gives good tone. It comes down to you really and this is a subjective thing. Try them both and you decide. I would say either one! good luck Personally I like the SD1 However I use a Ibanez TS9 Analogman (the best pedal out there) and I switch it with a KLON CENTAUR for rhythm set at clean boost (gain down all the way level up all the way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members michal888 Posted September 8, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members shredhead666 Posted September 8, 2005 Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 Supposedly the SD-1 removes a slight bit of low end when engaged, and the MXR ZW pedal was supposed to sound like the SD-1 without removing that low end. I think they sound very similar - the differences are very minor IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gooma Posted September 8, 2005 Members Share Posted September 8, 2005 I have owned both (tho not at the same time) so it`s a little hard to compare them. The ZW-44 is in a very simular vein to the SD-1, more gain, probably doesnt cut the low end out like the stock sd-1 does, not quite as transparent as a sd-1 from memory.I intend to have my sd-1 keeley modded so it wont lose that low end when engaged, i dont think you`d go wrong with either pedal.Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members michal888 Posted September 9, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2005 Thanks for opininons, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 4nkam Posted September 9, 2005 Members Share Posted September 9, 2005 You can mod an SD1 to a zw MJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members michal888 Posted September 9, 2005 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2005 Really great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rama satria Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 well if you have an sd1, you can mod it easily into zw44 specs: SD1 CONVERT INTO MXR ZAKK WYLDE ZW44 1. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D1) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6. 2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor. 3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor. 4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor. 5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor. 6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole where the base pin of Q6 used to stay. 7. Remove brown wire # 1 at the PCB and connect into ground. 8. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL. DONE! Also if you own an MXR ZW44 and have trouble with the switch, remember that the switch is NOT broken. Jim Dunlop made these pedals with the wrong impedance and it needs some repair at the input buffer section. But better have it fix with true bypass, problem solved. The ZW44 stock is not true bypass although yes it uses the DPDT switch but it is not wired into true bypass system. I prefer to get an SD1 and mod it into ZW44 specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members samhill Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 I use the ZW44 because it cuts low end(not drastic but noticeable) and therefore breaks through the mix a bit better during solos.Haven't tried an SD1 in 20 years so I can't comment on that. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members vidnotlaw Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 I am really surprised that people are saying the ZW-44 does not cut low end. I put this pedal into my Fender Twin Reverb '65 RI and there is a noticable cut on the low end! It sounded great for some dirty blues with gain about 9 o'clock. Set the gain between 3 o'clock and maxed, you get some great crunchy rock n roll! It does cut some low end, but I thought it sounded good. Take care, Vid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members AMSnell Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 well if you have an sd1, you can mod it easily into zw44 specs:SD1 CONVERT INTO MXR ZAKK WYLDE ZW441. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D1) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6. 2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor. 3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor. 4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor. 5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor. 6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole where the base pin of Q6 used to stay. 7. Remove brown wire # 1 at the PCB and connect into ground.8. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL. DONE!Also if you own an MXR ZW44 and have trouble with the switch, remember that the switch is NOT broken. Jim Dunlop made these pedals with the wrong impedance and it needs some repair at the input buffer section. But better have it fix with true bypass, problem solved. The ZW44 stock is not true bypass although yes it uses the DPDT switch but it is not wired into true bypass system. I prefer to get an SD1 and mod it into ZW44 specs. Awesome idea! Will be doing that to my SD-1 when I get the parts! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zygoat Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 The ZW sounds great as a boost for my POD. *runs away* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RelicJunky Posted April 3, 2007 Members Share Posted April 3, 2007 I am going to add my .02 cents worth in here cause I have been down this road (a couple of times). If you are looking at the ZW44 and SD1 you are looking for a good TS based overdrive. A SD-1 can be modded very easily to sound like a good tubescreamer on the cheap, the ZW44 does not have a bunch of mods out there like the SD-1 (and if I remember correctly the PCB has a bunch of micro components on it). Check out the DIY forum for easy mods. The maxon OD808 is a great off the shelf OD that kicks ass, might be worth looking into, it will save you in the long run. It will fatten up your cleans and tighten up your distortion, plus its a pro piece of equipment. Ok, bring on the flames:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rama satria Posted April 4, 2007 Members Share Posted April 4, 2007 If you want your MXR ZW44 keep the low end tight with no low cuts, you can do this with your already modded SD1 by changing C2 with a capacitor 1uF NON POLAR. Also if you remove the capacitor at C6 (leave it blank with no jumper) it will be a much better pedal and it will have more headroom. The MXR ZW44 do not use normal caps and resistors, these pedals use SDM components. But still the good news is that you can mod these pedals but needs very skillful hands to do it. These components are very small, once you do some removings on it you can easily change it with normal resistors or capacitors. For the MXR ZW44 I would remove C4 and leave it blank for more headroom, also I would remove R11, R13, and C8 since these are the components that always cause the switch lots of problems, it will not affect the tone when you remove these because it's the impedance part section. Change R12 with 510K and connect it into the VREF (+4.5V) for better switching. But for best results better mod it into true bypass system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DET1973 Posted April 4, 2007 Members Share Posted April 4, 2007 The SD1 is used by Zakk Wylde actually which is funny because he still uses it today even afterthe ZW44 was released.The SD1 has a smooth yet slightly jagged ASYMMetrical , full medium gain overdrive with good overall frequency presentation: sounds its best of course driving a semi cranked tube amp.As far as the ZW 44, I have nothing to base it on. Tried it briefly through an old bassman head. SOunded like crap but is because as well this pedal needs to be run through a semi cranked tube amp (with slight breakup stock that is) to determine what kind of sustain it delivers. I have heard it is kind of noisy but gives good tone.It comes down to you really and this is a subjective thing. Try them both and you decide. I would say either one! good luckPersonally I like the SD1 However I use a Ibanez TS9 Analogman (the best pedal out there) and I switch it with a KLON CENTAUR for rhythm set at clean boost (gain down all the way level up all the way) Actually he uses the ZW 44 Now. in a recent issue of Guitar world they show his pedal board & he has a ZW 44 With all the knobs missing cause they made him one with everything on 10. he also has a MXR chrous that he keeps on all the time..."to Widen his sound" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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