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>> Battery Replacement Information Page <<

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Seeing as this is a popular topic, lm starting a thread for info on battery replacement.

 

(I will move it to the 'Workshop' thread at the top of the page soon)

 

Please add info including :

 

1) Model of Synth

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032)

 

3) Any relevant fitting information (ie removal, soldering, etc)

 

:)

 

**Please note, these procedures are performed entirely at the users discresison / HC KSS cannot be held responsible for any loss of data or resulting problems **

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1) Model of Synth : Roland D-50 / D-550

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : The unit has a battery holder. Easy to replace. It is important to know that the D-550 does not have any sounds

in ROM. Once the battery has been replaced make sure to load the sounds via SysEx (at a slow speed otherwise it will fail) or trought the sound cartridge slot.

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1) Model of Synth : Korg Wavestation A/D

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : The unit has a battery holder. Easy to replace. Once battery is replaced the unit will copy the same patches from the first bank to all the other banks. Loading the sounds via SysEx or trought the cartridge slot is required to obtain missing banks.

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1) Model of Synth : Yamaha SY77 / TG77

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : The unit requires soldering for the battery to be replaced. Have fun, especially with the TG77 (rack version).

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1) Model of Synth : Korg Poly 800 / EX 800

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : Another unit that requires soldering for the battery to be replaced.

 

-----------------------------------

**Note: Some early model MK1s do not even have a internal battery. There are instructions on how to add an internal battery on the net.**

 

Instructions here: http://analog.no/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=49

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1) Model of Synth : Roland Juno-106

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : The unit requires soldering for the battery to be replaced. You will have to unmount the boards from the casing to proceed with soldering. A good idea is to put in a battery holder as usual.

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1) Model of Synth : Ensoniq VFX

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information :

 

Battery is soldered into board, de-solder and replace with new battery with legs attached. *Recommendation*: solder in battery holder (from PC mb). Makes access alot easiler.

 

Battery location:

 

VFXBATTERY.jpg

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1) Model of Synth : Roland MKS -70

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2450

 

3) Any relevant fitting information :

 

The battery is located on the computer board (the bottom one placed under the two synth boards). It has the contact legs attached and will need to be carefully de-soldered. (Due to size of CR2450 battery, alas, it is going to be hard to find a 'holder')

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1) Model of Synth : Korg Poly 800 / EX 800


2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032


3) Any relevant fitting information : Another unit that requires soldering for the battery to be replaced.

 

Note: Some early model MK1s do not even have a internal battery. There are instructions on how to add an internal battery on the net.

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1) Model of Synth : Roland JV-1080

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : CR2032

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : The unit has a battery holder. Easy to replace.

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1) Model of Synth: Yamaha TF-1 (module from TX-816 rack)

 

2) Battery Type: CR2032

 

The original battery has legs soldered to the board. You can replace it with a similarly-leggy CR2032, or do as I did and install a battery holder and insert a normal CR2032 battery in it's place.

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1) Model of Synth: Korg EX-800

 

2) Battery Type: CR2032

 

Another leggy battery. It's located on the main board at the bottom of the case, situated rather tightly between two chips. The original battery had an odd leg geometry and was surface mounted; The leg pins did not feed through the board. Replacing it requires taking a leggy CR2032 and bending the ends of the legs slightly so they can be soldered to the largish pads on the board. Due to the close proximity of the battery to the pins of nearby chips, you might consider placing an insulator between the battery and the chips. I used a short length of shrinkwrap tubing and stuffed the battery into it with the legs poking out the ends.

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1) Model of Synth : Kurzweil K2000

 

2) Battery Type (ie CR2032) : AA Batteries (3)

 

3) Any relevant fitting information : Door in bottom of synth. Open and replace. One of the best designs I've ever seen.

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Door in bottom of synth. Open and replace. One of the best designs I've ever seen.

 

Actually, come to think of it my Poly800 had a similar affair (must have been one of the earlier ones). Took 6 (I think?) 'A' batteries. I can imagine the mess though, should one be left for some years in storage.

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Actually, come to think of it my Poly800 had a similar affair (must have been one of the earlier ones). Took 6 ( I think) 'A' batteries. I can imagine the mess though, should one be left for some years in storage.

 

On the the early MK1s, the batteries were for both program memory and the main system power. When you replaced the batteries, you had to make sure it was on DC power from the 9V transformer to prevent patch loss.

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1) Model: Fender Chroma Polaris

 

2) Mattery Type: Akaline D-cells (2)

 

To replace: First, UNPLUG THE UNIT because the main power runs directly near the batteries. Unscrew the two large silver screws on the bottom, one on each end, they hold the top panel down. Be aware that the screws are captured and will not come out. When they disengage from the top, the top will be free to hinge open from the back, so be careful not to let it flop open if you have it upside down. The batteries will be immediately apparent. If you are reasonably swift in your replacement (within several seconds, I imagine), your programs ought to remain intact during the exchange. To be on the safe side you should make a backup of your data, just in case.

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1) Model of Synth: Roland Alpha Juno 2

 

2) Battery Type: CR2032

 

The original battery has legs soldered to the board. You can replace it with a similarly-leggy CR2032, or do as I did and install a battery holder and insert a normal CR2032 battery in it's place.

 

(Yes, I'm, plagiarizing EP)

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1) Model of Synth: Yamaha DX-7, DX7II

 

2) Battery Type: CR2032

 

The original battery has legs soldered to the board. You can replace it with a similarly-leggy CR2032, or do as I did and install a battery holder and insert a normal CR2032 battery in it's place.

 

(Yes, I'm, plagiarizing myself)

 

Both require dis-assembly to get to the main board to do this right. The DX-7 is VERY straightforward and seems like it was designed to be worked on.

 

The DX-7II has the funkiest design I've ever seen. Everything is accessed from the bottom of the board, and the various PCBs are layered in a kind of sandwich construction. The DX7II was NOT designed to be opened up, IMO.

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The DX7II was NOT designed to be opened up, IMO.

 

Your not wrong. My old DX7IID was purchased without any power switch at the back, just a gap where it should have been. It just turned on when plugged in. I quiried this with Yamaha, and, hats of to them they sent me the part FOC.

 

I tell you, that board tried its damn hardest not to let me in :D

 

Did it in the end though.

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BTW, a suitably leggy CR2032 battery can be ordered from here, they have no minimum order:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/639/2071.pdf

Case style "G" on that catalog page is typical of the commonly seen tabbed CR2032.

 

I had a real trouble trying to get hold of a CR2450 with the 'legs' attached for my MKS-70. Ended up getting it of feebay :rolleyes:

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1) Model of Synth: Roland Jupiter 6

 

2) Battery Type: CR1/3n AKA DL1/3n and 2L76

 

Hard to find with solder tabs. Suggest getting battery holder from Memory Protection Devices.

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