Jump to content

Just Bias Modded my Valveking. AWESOME!!!!


t2mikeman

Recommended Posts

  • Members

Short story: EH 6l6/sovtek wxt+, biased to 64% dissipation. Its awesome! Best clean tone i have ever heard in my life now! So much BOUNCE, juicy bass, but tons of definition (not that this amp only seems to sound this good with sovtek 6l6gcwxt+'s , the stock rubys are muddy as heck in this amp, and the reverb sucks with the stock tubes).

SPARKLE. Pure fender twin tone, with more bass, but not muddy at all. (A few folks have told em after reading the schem, that the clean circuit is a the direct RIP OFF of the normal fender twin).

 

Anyhoo for the 20 min this mod will take you it is SOOOOO worth it. Really ive owned amps up to 2 grand in price. This is the BEST CLEAN i have EVER heard.

I cant help think part of the reason some people dont like these amps is that they either dont play clean, or theirs just was not biased right.

 

 

 

 

So yeah after a lengthy amp of my dreams search. I realized what i wanted simply did not exist in one amp. Basically my bugera 333xl, with the exact tube compliment i have in it now is my dream high gain tone (incidentally change any of those tubes and it is not). So that base is covered.

 

My friends valveking (that i gave to him) happens to sound glorious clean. So i bit the bullet and bought ANOTHER for myself.

 

But i knew that from testing his that it might be biased slightly cold from the get-go. And i know they are fixed biased which has always turned me off to em (that and i dont like the high gain channel).

 

Anyways ive never done a bias mod before. Actually never made any real circuit modifications before.

 

I realized how many people blow up themselves and their amps doing bias mods, so i thought. If i get it new, the amp is going to be at least 6 months old.

No power in the caps.

If i never turn it on...then no power in the caps = stress free first bias mod.

 

Anyhoo just incase i got the the thing, and opened her up. To my pleasant surpise resistor 205 was staring me in the face. No extra work needed to access.

 

Then my attention deficit behind accidentally snipped the wrong resistor, paniced, and managed to resolder the resistor , hopefully without frying it. I wasnt able to really measure any resistance there because it was right next to a capacitor or something. hold my leads there for 2 seconds it says no continuity, 2 seconds later it does.

 

Anyhoo once that self induced situation was fixed, the real process was easy!

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

If someone wants to do it heres the steps! (for head only)

 

1) Buy amp New in Box, NEVER OPENED. You want the amp to be free of all electrical charge. New ones have been sitting in a ware house or shipping container a minimum of like 6 months. Theyre dead...

2)Open her up! (the head )

3) pull the power tubes.

4) flip her.

5)Find resistor 205, its in a group of 3 on the side with the power and standby switch.

6)For double safety, read across the resistor for voltage. There should be none.

7) snip both sides as close to the resistor as you can. Toss over your shoulder.

8)Buy one of these EXACTLY. Really, theyre PERFECT. Lots of turns for precise

adjustment. Cermet pots like NEVER fail. Its small, and its got a WIDE range.

http://cgi.ebay.com/100K-ohm-15-Turn-Cermet-Trim-Pots-muRata-2101Y-Lot-10_W0QQitemZ300330415948QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ed16774c&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116#ht_1449wt_943

Make sure its atleast 1/4 watt. 100k ohm, 9-15 turn, cermet pot.

7) VERY IMPORTANT---

 

PRE ADJUST THE POT, don't just stick it in there. Read the center and one side, and adjust till you get 50k ohm resistance. This way you start at a realllly safe spot.

 

8) take the center and one leg on the pot, and solder it into where you removed the old resistor. Try to use as little heat as possible. As in move fast. Dont want anything else heating up that doesnt have to.

 

9) hot glue the thing stable to the board.

 

10) Youre done!

 

11) Bias up like normal!

12) Rock!

 

 

~mike~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Short story: EH 6l6/sovtek wxt+, biased to 64% dissipation. Its awesome! Best clean tone i have ever heard in my life now! So much BOUNCE, juicy bass, but tons of definition (not that this amp only seems to sound this good with sovtek 6l6gcwxt+'s , the stock rubys are muddy as heck in this amp, and the reverb sucks with the stock tubes).

SPARKLE. Pure fender twin tone, with more bass, but not muddy at all. (A few folks have told em after reading the schem, that the clean circuit is a the direct RIP OFF of the normal fender twin).


Anyhoo for the 20 min this mod will take you it is SOOOOO worth it. Really ive owned amps up to 2 grand in price.
This is the BEST CLEAN i have EVER heard.

I cant help think part of the reason some people dont like these amps is that they either dont play clean, or theirs just was not biased right.





So yeah after a lengthy amp of my dreams search. I realized what i wanted simply did not exist in one amp.
Basically my bugera 333xl, with the exact tube compliment i have in it now is my dream high gain tone
(incidentally change any of those tubes and it is not). So that base is covered.


My friends valveking (that i gave to him) happens to sound glorious clean. So i bit the bullet and bought ANOTHER for myself.


But i knew that from testing his that it might be biased slightly cold from the get-go. And i know they are fixed biased which has always turned me off to em (that and i dont like the high gain channel).


Anyways ive never done a bias mod before. Actually never made any real circuit modifications before.


I realized how many people blow up themselves and their amps doing bias mods, so i thought. If i get it new, the amp is going to be at least 6 months old.

No power in the caps.

If i never turn it on...then no power in the caps = stress free first bias mod.


Anyhoo just incase i got the the thing, and opened her up. To my pleasant surpise resistor 205 was staring me in the face. No extra work needed to access.


Then my attention deficit behind accidentally snipped the wrong resistor, paniced, and managed to resolder the resistor , hopefully without frying it. I wasnt able to really measure any resistance there because it was right next to a capacitor or something. hold my leads there for 2 seconds it says no continuity, 2 seconds later it does.


Anyhoo once that self induced situation was fixed, the real process was easy!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------


If someone wants to do it heres the steps! (for head only)


1) Buy amp New in Box, NEVER OPENED. You want the amp to be free of all electrical charge. New ones have been sitting in a ware house or shipping container a minimum of like 6 months. Theyre dead...

2)Open her up! (the head )

3) pull the power tubes.

4) flip her.

5)Find resistor 205, its in a group of 3 on the side with the power and standby switch.

6)For double safety, read across the resistor for voltage. There should be none.

7) snip both sides as close to the resistor as you can. Toss over your shoulder.

8)Buy one of these EXACTLY. Really, theyre PERFECT. Lots of turns for precise

adjustment. Cermet pots like NEVER fail. Its small, and its got a WIDE range.

http://cgi.ebay.com/100K-ohm-15-Turn-Cermet-Trim-Pots-muRata-2101Y-Lot-10_W0QQitemZ300330415948QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ed16774c&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116#ht_1449wt_943

Make sure its atleast 1/4 watt. 100k ohm, 9-15 turn, cermet pot.

7) VERY IMPORTANT---


PRE ADJUST THE POT, don't just stick it in there. Read the center and one side, and adjust till you get 50k ohm resistance. This way you start at a realllly safe spot.


8) take the center and one leg on the pot, and solder it into where you removed the old resistor. Try to use as little heat as possible. As in move fast. Dont want anything else heating up that doesnt have to.


9) hot glue the thing stable to the board.


10) Youre done!


11) Bias up like normal!

12) Rock!



~mike~

 

Troll :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

That too.
:cop:

 

Mave you praised your valveking when you owned one...defended the SHIT out of it as well. I just find it funny. Mediocre, sure...but it's not a terrible amp for the price you can find one used. $250-300 for a 2 channel 100w tube head? More versatile than our 5150s too.

 

And I will agree that the cleans on the valveking were pretty damn good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Mave you praised your valveking when you owned one...defended the {censored} out of it as well. I just find it funny. Mediocre, sure...but it's not a terrible amp for the price you can find one used. $250-300 for a 2 channel 100w tube head? More versatile than our 5150s too.


And I will agree that the cleans on the valveking were pretty damn good.

 

 

precisely. Honestly the gain on this thing does not float my boat at all, but $445 bucks for the best clean tone ive ever heard. Not bad at all.

~mike~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Mave you praised your valveking when you owned one...defended the SHIT out of it as well. I just find it funny. Mediocre, sure...but it's not a terrible amp for the price you can find one used. $250-300 for a 2 channel 100w tube head? More versatile than our 5150s too.


And I will agree that the cleans on the valveking were pretty damn good.

 

I remember that !! :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...