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Dann'sTheMan

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Quote Originally Posted by Dann'sTheMan

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Hi Hinrich,


Loop attenuation certainly works for many of the brothers here. smile.gif If you want to continue to use your delay and chorus in the loop, then there are other ways of achieving loop attenuation. If either the delay or chorus pedal have a final output control, then use that to reduce the levels (this is essentially what hal9000 and I do with our G-Majors). Alternatively, you could use a simple volume pedal. Or, if you are up for a small project, you could build your own loop attenuator box for a few bucks in parts, and place it in the loop along with your pedals. For some excellent info on building such a project, check out hal's post (and the surrounding info)here smile.gif


Big smiles,


Andy.

 

Hey Andy


Thanks for the tip. I actually tried using the EQ in the loop and dropping the level slider. The sound was improved but even with the level slider all the way down, it was still a bit loud. But the tone was controlled nicely with the EQ. BUT, I didn't realize this until last night, I tried the EQ going straight into the amp and it sounded terrible. I think the distortion sounded better with the effects loop cable mod (no EQ) than with the EQ in the loop.


The saga continues...

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Quote Originally Posted by Joeytpg

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It's too hard buying like this.


Can anyone give me a good music store in Europe?

 

Hello,

my favorite online-shop is Musik-Schmidt in Frankfurt: http://www.musik-schmidt.de/osc-schm...alog/index.php

It is a great shop with a very good service and good prices.

My second is Thomann http://www.thomann.de/de/index.html

Very good prices and fast shipping.

www.musicstore.de in Cologne is not the best address in service.


Musik-Schmidt has shop-assistants who are good guitar-players and who love their job. You can see it also on the videos. For example http://62.80.2.62/0179_og6249_charvel_san_dimas.html


Greetings from Germany

Frank

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Quote Originally Posted by hal9000

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If possible, run the TL and F-30 on the same outlet. Hopefully, that will avoid obvious ground loops. If the noise continues, you can use a cable to connect the TL to the FX return that has one side of the shield disconnected from the outer jacket of the connector.

 

So I sat in with a group earlier today and used my Tonelab SE into the effects return on my F-30. I had the "dummy" plug in the send side of the amp. Both the amp and the TLSE were on the same electrical circuit and I had a terrible buzz going on. My surge protector has an indicator light that showed a good ground connection. However, the stage is lit with residential can track lighting that are controlled by faders. I know these things are terribly noisy. Is there anything I can do differently in my setup to get rid of this buzz? Power conditioner? Ground lift adapter? Would the above quoted suggestion solve my problem? If so, I need help constructing such a cable as I'm kind of an electrical novice (I do have a soldering pencil though). Is instrument cable shielded?


The amplitude of the buzz changed when I rotated my body, but I can't stand in the same position the whole time; how exciting is that!? Your help is much appreciated.


Thanks,

Will

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WOW I finally got around to soldering an old jack and trying the loop attenuation on my F100 Head (w/ 212 cab). WOW that is fantastic much better than the buzzy distortion I am used to trying to play at night with the volume down low. This should help live too, sound guys are always telling me to turn down and they will put me in the monitors, which makes sense but it was sometimes at the sacrifice of great tone. This mod is so simple and fantastic !!!!


THANKS HAL and everyone else!!!

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Quote Originally Posted by Will Cyrier

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So I sat in with a group earlier today and used my Tonelab SE into the effects return on my F-30. I had the "dummy" plug in the send side of the amp. Both the amp and the TLSE were on the same electrical circuit and I had a terrible buzz going on. My surge protector has an indicator light that showed a good ground connection. However, the stage is lit with residential can track lighting that are controlled by faders. I know these things are terribly noisy. Is there anything I can do differently in my setup to get rid of this buzz? Power conditioner? Ground lift adapter? Would the above quoted suggestion solve my problem? If so, I need help constructing such a cable as I'm kind of an electrical novice (I do have a soldering pencil though). Is instrument cable shielded?


The amplitude of the buzz changed when I rotated my body, but I can't stand in the same position the whole time; how exciting is that!? Your help is much appreciated.


Thanks,

Will

 

Hi Will. I'm sorry to hear you're having hum problems. In my experience, there are a couple of places to look right away:


1) Try your F-30, plugged straight in with your guitar and nothing in the loop. If you have hum, it's either conducted from the power line, or radiated from a noise source. So, turn your guitar's volume down to zero with the amp on and at gig volume. If the noise goes away, your guitar needs to be shielded better in the electronics cavity or maybe needs noise-canceling pickups. In my Strat I have Vintage Noiseless singles which sound great and are super quiet. If turning the guitar's volume down doesn't fix the noise, you're probably getting noise conducted down the power line. In this case, a power conditioner may help. IMO, the Furman PL8 II like I use is the lowest tier of conditioners I would consider because it has both series and shunt surge protection and Furman has a good reputation. The only time a cable with one side's ground removed works is in a ground loop hum condition, which you shouldn't have since you're using one outlet.


2) If the noise isn't present at all with just the F-30 and guitar, then obviously your TSLE/FX loop connections are the culprit. Even though instrument cables are shielded, they don't kill noise completely, just attenuate it. So, if you have a really powerful noise source, you'll likely still hear it through the cables regardless of the quality.

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hi folks new member here, with a couple of questions about the f series


i usually play a lot of different genres, from zeppelin to muddy waters, from hendrix to pantera, and even some really heavy stuff. i know the f series has a really nice clean tone but can it handle really high gain without a pedal? by that i mean will i be able to get the pantera or a hardcore distortion out of the amp?


im not aiming for the f-30, even though it is a mighty fine amp, i like the 50/100 better because of the 6L6 tubes.


one more question, i know that the f series is discontinued, but which other amp from mesa can handle the things i listed above?

oh yeah one more thing, i currently have an esp ex-50 but i am going to be getting an ec-400 with emg 81/60

thank you ~ rob

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Hey guys, a question to the brothers using POD XT LIVE or POD XT PRO as a secondary rig.


I've been thinking about adding a Pod Xt Live or Pro. It delivers more sounds specially if I'm recording. Also it's always good to have a backup rig.


I'm torn between the POD XT LIVE or THE PRO, what are de differences really? If i buy the the Pro, can I run it through the F-50 speaker? without the F-50 Preamp kicking in (basically using the F-50 Speaker as a Cab)


thanks guys.

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Quote Originally Posted by hal9000

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Hi Will. I'm sorry to hear you're having hum problems. In my experience, there are a couple of places to look right away:


1) Try your F-30, plugged straight in with your guitar and nothing in the loop. If you have hum, it's either conducted from the power line, or radiated from a noise source. So, turn your guitar's volume down to zero with the amp on and at gig volume. If the noise goes away, your guitar needs to be shielded better in the electronics cavity or maybe needs noise-canceling pickups. In my Strat I have Vintage Noiseless singles which sound great and are super quiet. If turning the guitar's volume down doesn't fix the noise, you're probably getting noise conducted down the power line. In this case, a power conditioner may help. IMO, the Furman PL8 II like I use is the lowest tier of conditioners I would consider because it has both series and shunt surge protection and Furman has a good reputation. The only time a cable with one side's ground removed works is in a ground loop hum condition, which you shouldn't have since you're using one outlet.


2) If the noise isn't present at all with just the F-30 and guitar, then obviously your TSLE/FX loop connections are the culprit. Even though instrument cables are shielded, they don't kill noise completely, just attenuate it. So, if you have a really powerful noise source, you'll likely still hear it through the cables regardless of the quality.

 

Thanks,


I remember the noise going away as I turned down my guitar's volume knob. I was using my single coil neck pickup most of the night because my humbucker sounded pretty thin for the rhythm work I was doing. They're both Seymore's, but I know the single isn't a noiseless type.


So I'm thinking of improving the shielding in my electronics cavity and at the same time, plopping a new noiseless single in the neck position. Any recommendations? I like a good bluesy tone. I really only need one unless it will clash with the JB-4 hum-bucker I have in the bridge position now.


As far as the cavity shielding, I have some grey goop painted in there right now and then a stock piece of foil on the pickguard directly above the pot cavity. I've heard of guys doing the entire backside of the pickguard. What are your suggestions?

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I want to put castors on my f50 combo.


I bought some Ernie Balls but discovered they would require a lot

of drilling of the cabinet (5 holes per castor, one of them ~ 1/2 inch).


Is there a way to get castors on there that doesn't require so much

drilling.


If I use the Mesa casters can I avoid it?

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Quote Originally Posted by joel3000

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I want to put castors on my f50 combo.


I bought some Ernie Balls but discovered they would require a lot

of drilling of the cabinet (5 holes per castor, one of them ~ 1/2 inch).


Is there a way to get castors on there that doesn't require so much

drilling.


If I use the Mesa casters can I avoid it?

 

Does the F50 have the four aluminum blocks at the corners like my F100? If so you should be able to get castors that slide right into the blocks.
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Think i might have a blown speaker, but I remember somebody talking about a rattle that developed after a while in their F-50 combo that sounded like a blown speaker. Anybody know where that rattle is located before I take my F-50 to dealer? It sounds a lot like the speaker, but i want to check before I drive 50 miles. Thanks.

T-Wolfe

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Quote Originally Posted by Will Cyrier

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As far as the cavity shielding, I have some grey goop painted in there right now and then a stock piece of foil on the pickguard directly above the pot cavity. I've heard of guys doing the entire backside of the pickguard.

 

It's definitely preferable covering the whole pickguard. You can get heavy duty adhesive copper from monetallums.com. Alternatively, you can see what Callaham can offer. I have an aluminium plate that I fixed to the backside of my Strat's pickguard..


As for shielding in general, I'd suggest you head over to seymourduncan.com/forum, and use the search function for info about shielding a guitar. There are tons of good advises there..

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Even just using plain heavy aluminum foil which is what I have under all my guitars pickguards makes a big difference. But if your getting hum thru your amp, just hold your hand on the pickguard. If the hum doesn't go away it's probably not coming from the guitar unless you have a bad component.

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Do any of you know if all the F series combos have the speaker mounted from the front? I just picked up a Weber Beam Blocker to try with my F 30, and was surprised to see the way it was mounted. I never really looked before. I removed two screws, and put the BB in place, replaced the screws and tightened snugly, but hopefully not too tight.


I remember reading here that at least one or two others have installed these but don't remember anything about the speakers being front loaded. I don't think it can really hurt anything, but is there anything I may be overlooking? Anyone who knows and cares to reply would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Steve

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I had a similar question about the Weber Beam Blocker. Is it easy to install? Does it come with directions? If not, how would I install it?


I also had a question or two about the homemade attenuation mods. For the two plug solution on the first page diagram are you guys suggesting that I buy two 1/4" jacks by themselves and just solder the necessary points together? If so, where would I buy those 1/4" jacks?

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Quote Originally Posted by beyondthislife

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I had a similar question about the Weber Beam Blocker. Is it easy to install? Does it come with directions? If not, how would I install it?


I also had a question or two about the homemade attenuation mods. For the two plug solution on the first page diagram are you guys suggesting that I buy two 1/4" jacks by themselves and just solder the necessary points together? If so, where would I buy those 1/4" jacks?

 

I'd try Radio Shack if you have them in your area. However I went there recently and they didn't most of the "electronics" stuff I was looking for. On the internet, I found these guys recently: http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ectGroup_ID=99


Good luck!

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Quote Originally Posted by twolfe278

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Think i might have a blown speaker, but I remember somebody talking about a rattle that developed after a while in their F-50 combo that sounded like a blown speaker. Anybody know where that rattle is located before I take my F-50 to dealer? It sounds a lot like the speaker, but i want to check before I drive 50 miles. Thanks.

T-Wolfe

 

I don't remember exactly that conversation, but other common solutions are problems with tubes (though these rattles are normally quite loud) and of course the guitar cable going bad...


does anyone remember what was the case?

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Quote Originally Posted by beyondthislife

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I had a similar question about the Weber Beam Blocker. Is it easy to install? Does it come with directions? If not, how would I install it?


I also had a question or two about the homemade attenuation mods. For the two plug solution on the first page diagram are you guys suggesting that I buy two 1/4" jacks by themselves and just solder the necessary points together? If so, where would I buy those 1/4" jacks?

 

Yes, just one soldered point is all it takes. As for plugs, I had an old Peavey 20' guitar cord that was shorted out, so I stripped off the shrinkwrap at the plugs and cut the wire and un soldered the wire from the plug and had my 2 plugs for zero cost, plus a little bit of wire to do the one connection.


I was skeptical but I can tell you I love playing the amp even more since doing this! The tone is way better that ever and having one control over both channel volumes is great!

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Quote Originally Posted by joel3000

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I want to put castors on my f50 combo.


I bought some Ernie Balls but discovered they would require a lot

of drilling of the cabinet (5 holes per castor, one of them ~ 1/2 inch).


Is there a way to get castors on there that doesn't require so much

drilling.


If I use the Mesa casters can I avoid it?

 

It's not "that" heavy. I use one of those luggage carrier cart to transport it long distances and just lift it on and off from there. I also like to avoid drilling holes.
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Quote Originally Posted by sum_ugly_man

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by that i mean will i be able to get the pantera or a hardcore distortion out of the amp?

 

It gets pretty heavy, you can get pretty close but I don't think you'll quite get that far.


 

Quote Originally Posted by sum_ugly_man

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one more question, i know that the f series is discontinued, but which other amp from mesa can handle the things i listed above?

oh yeah one more thing, i currently have an esp ex-50 but i am going to be getting an ec-400 with emg 81/60

thank you ~ rob

 

I'm thinking the new Express 5:25 and 5:50 are probably the replacements for the F series. I haven't played them to say for sure though. They are supposed to be switchable 5 Watt Class A to 25/50 Watts, with selectable modes for each channel... Clean/Crunch and Blues/Burn, then a contour switch deal on top of that. Other than that, it kind of looks like a F-series amp with extra switches and a adjustable contour.


The other option if you could afford it is to go with the Road King... which pretty much gives you everything in one nice box.

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Ok guys, I need some tips on getting the F-50 to work with a POD XT LIVE I'll be buying in the next few day.


I wanna do several stuff, and I need a few tips on HOW TO achieve it.


1- How to use the POD XT LIVE amps with the f-50 running only as a "cab".


What I want is to be able to run the amps without the F-50 preamp. Can this be done? or do I need to run it through the Clean Channel?


2- How to use the POD effects with my F-50?


3- How to make my 2 channel F-50 into a 3 channel ???


thanks a lot buddies.

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Quote Originally Posted by Joeytpg

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Ok guys, I need some tips on getting the F-50 to work with a POD XT LIVE I'll be buying in the next few day.


I wanna do several stuff, and I need a few tips on HOW TO achieve it.


1- How to use the POD XT LIVE amps with the f-50 running only as a "cab".


What I want is to be able to run the amps without the F-50 preamp. Can this be done? or do I need to run it through the Clean Channel?


2- How to use the POD effects with my F-50?


3- How to make my 2 channel F-50 into a 3 channel ???


thanks a lot buddies.

 

Just plug the XT's main out into the F-50's FX Return, and make sure you disable any mic and cab simulation in your patches, since you already have a cab, and are presumably going to mic the cab as well. You'll also need to re-adjust your settings a bit, since the poweramp is going to color the sound slightly.


I haven't tried the XT with the F-30 personally, but I've used my GT-8 with the F-30 with VERY good results. I can get my GT-8 + F-30 setup to sound practically indistinguishable to the F-30 alone, with the added benefit of multiple presets, and far fewer cables in between the floorboard and the F-30.


Mike

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Quote Originally Posted by Dann'sTheMan

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Welcome to the brotherhood, Mike!


Tell us more about the music you play. smile.gif


Big smiles,


Andy.

 

Oh hey man, just saw this.


I play mostly classic and hard rock on my own time. Don't play out as much as I used to, and only at church when I do. F-30 works out well - covers all my bases, and is super easy to lug around.


I do have a Beam Blocker and a MiniMASS that I use with the F-30, as I did with my previous amps. I don't crank the F-30 super hard or anything, but just to the point of ever so slight compression in the poweramp section - the clean notes are still clean, but "fatter" sounding.


As mentioned in the last post, I actually have the GT-8 straight into the poweramp for the most part, and I managed to get it to sound almost identical to the F-30 by itself, except I have four channels setup instead of two, and fewer cables to run (no foots witch either).


It's a cool amp, and this thread definitely helped when I was still researching it. You guys rock! smile.gif


Mike

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