Members Sam24 Posted January 22, 2011 Members Share Posted January 22, 2011 Originally Posted by drasp You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . . i tryed and it don't sound ond the second...you say that is for the right out the r37? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 23, 2011 Members Share Posted January 23, 2011 Originally Posted by drasp You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . . and do you know how to make the double preset mod by myself please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members drasp Posted January 23, 2011 Members Share Posted January 23, 2011 Originally Posted by Sam24 i tryed and it don't sound ond the second...you say that is for the right out the r37? Correct - I was trying to give you that piece of info w/o just saying it. Sorry if the lines of communication were crossed! R36 sets the gain/output level for the R channel & R37 for the L. If it matters to you, trace past where you damaged the board & connect your new resistor there - may be possible to save the R channel. Or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 26, 2011 Members Share Posted January 26, 2011 Originally Posted by drasp Correct - I was trying to give you that piece of info w/o just saying it. Sorry if the lines of communication were crossed! R36 sets the gain/output level for the R channel & R37 for the L. If it matters to you, trace past where you damaged the board & connect your new resistor there - may be possible to save the R channel. Or not. you suggest to follow the connections and solder the resistor there?...i tried but i can't see it, or better i can do for the parto going to the left side (if you are locking at the stompbox) but i cant for the other...any suggestion for the schematics?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members drasp Posted January 26, 2011 Members Share Posted January 26, 2011 I don't have a schematic, but try a combination of shining a flashlight through the PCB & testing for continuity w/ a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 26, 2011 Members Share Posted January 26, 2011 Originally Posted by drasp I don't have a schematic, but try a combination of shining a flashlight through the PCB & testing for continuity w/ a multimeter. ............ sorry for the ignorancecan you please tel me how to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 26, 2011 Members Share Posted January 26, 2011 Originally Posted by Sam24 ............ sorry for the ignorancecan you please tel me how to do it? really, i can't see it becouse it's a little bit white and i don't understand where is the other connection!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 26, 2011 Members Share Posted January 26, 2011 here the pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 28, 2011 Members Share Posted January 28, 2011 Originally Posted by Sam24 here the pic Anybody can help me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jimosity Posted January 28, 2011 Members Share Posted January 28, 2011 I can help, but you'd have to send it to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members drasp Posted January 28, 2011 Members Share Posted January 28, 2011 Follow the trace leading from the lifted pad with your eyes - see where it vanishes under that IC? With a multimeter, you could probe the surrounding traces for continuity & figure out where it should go. . .Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I also have to consider that lots of folks pay for my DIY kits to get my help with things like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 29, 2011 Members Share Posted January 29, 2011 Originally Posted by drasp Follow the trace leading from the lifted pad with your eyes - see where it vanishes under that IC? With a multimeter, you could probe the surrounding traces for continuity & figure out where it should go. . .Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I also have to consider that lots of folks pay for my DIY kits to get my help with things like this. I'm so sorry, i didn't know you do this for money!!You gave me a big help by trying to' help me , so i don't wanna stress you again, i'll try to' follow the trace goobg under that IC and see where it should be...thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sam24 Posted January 29, 2011 Members Share Posted January 29, 2011 Originally Posted by jimosity I can help, but you'd have to send it to me. Thanks but i would like to repair by myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members drasp Posted January 29, 2011 Members Share Posted January 29, 2011 Originally Posted by Sam24 I'm so sorry, i didn't know you do this for money!!You gave me a big help by trying to' help me , so i don't wanna stress you again, i'll try to' follow the trace goobg under that IC and see where it should be...thanks again! No worries. I love helping folks out, but I also love to see them learning, which is why I wanted to help you find your own answer. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members whatusername Posted March 26, 2011 Members Share Posted March 26, 2011 Thanks for all the info guys, I know the thread is old but it's still very useful to guys like me.Now to my problem Using the info here I fixed the volume drop on my MM4, I also changed the momentary switches with heavy duty ones.Everything appeared fine until I noticed that channel 3 had stopped working.While I was poking around with my continuity tester (the MM4 was powered) I found that applying the plus and minus to channel 4 activated channel 3.I know it sounds confusing but I know the problem is not in the switches themselves and channel 3 actually works I just cant activate it with the switch.Could it be a bad resistor R31 maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members whatusername Posted April 21, 2011 Members Share Posted April 21, 2011 Really...nobody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zyy12345 Posted April 22, 2011 Members Share Posted April 22, 2011 This article is good for me!!! This article is good for me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kojdogg Posted May 1, 2011 Members Share Posted May 1, 2011 Hey-- anyone happen to know the value for R30, R31, etc.-- the ones right next to the switches? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kojdogg Posted May 5, 2011 Members Share Posted May 5, 2011 Originally Posted by kojdogg Hey-- anyone happen to know the value for R30, R31, etc.-- the ones right next to the switches? Thanks! BUMP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jimosity Posted May 7, 2011 Members Share Posted May 7, 2011 Originally Posted by kojdogg Hey-- anyone happen to know the value for R30, R31, etc.-- the ones right next to the switches? Thanks! R30 is 2kR31 is 4.02k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kojdogg Posted May 7, 2011 Members Share Posted May 7, 2011 Originally Posted by jimosity R30 is 2kR31 is 4.02k Thanks!Also I'm an idiot-- I didn't see this was asked and answered on the first page! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jeffcox800 Posted September 6, 2011 Members Share Posted September 6, 2011 I know this thread hasn't been active however any help would be greatly appreciated. I replaced my stock switches for momentary switches wired directly to the board. However, I knocked off the R32 resistor on switch four. Can someone tell me what value resistor I need to replace it with. Thanks for your time. -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ghet Posted August 31, 2012 Members Share Posted August 31, 2012 Long ago I read your forum, but work is work holiday vacation , someone plays batltlefield 3, my home base on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members srinivassa Posted October 27, 2012 Members Share Posted October 27, 2012 I know I am necroing a zombie thread, but I just wanted to say, "thanks so much" to the people involved. It was a big help. I HAD to have this mod to make my MM4 boardworthy, and I did NOT need to pay Keeley $119. I had some real boo-boos, but pulled through. Taking the resistors off for the volume mod, I pulled 3 of the 4 pads off. It was my first time, and I did not know what I was doing. Had to find the trace wire, and solder a resistor to tendril thin pin of a micro IC. I really thought I had ruined it, but my natural tenacity brought me back around. Thanks again to those involved. I think it saved my pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members anagrama1 Posted June 10, 2015 Members Share Posted June 10, 2015 I want to be dead sure about this before I do something I can't do back - any unit newer than 2001 won't have any components in C1, C36, C23, C24? Only units older than 2001 will have that, and those components can be removed for an improved signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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