Members UMT Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 I have a digital recorder that I'm trying to replace the input jacks on. They are mounted on a circuit board and I'm having problems de-soldering the input jacks. My soldering iron is as old as dirt, I've got flux, a solder sucker and soldering braid. I'm going to get a new soldering iron tomorrow as I don't think it's getting hot enough. It seems to take longer than it should for the solder to liquefy, and then as soon as I pull the iron away briefly, it's gets hard again very fast. The desolder braid works but it seems like it should work better. Question #1: I don't think I want anything more than a 30watt iron, especially working on circuit boards. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for the best wattage for de-soldering? Any other tips that might help would also be appreciated. Question #2: Should a guy still 'tin' the tip of the soldering iron even when de-soldering???? Thanks In Advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mike42 Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 #2 first - yes the tip always needs to be tinned to transfer heat to the work - much of the heat transfer is a result of liquid solder "bridging" between the iron tip and the work. You will have to hold the iron on the braid until you remove it from the work. The braid is an almost perfect heat sink, and it will pull heat away form the work instantly if you don't keep the iron on it. 30W is probably enough for most small soldering, but it may be a little skimpy for desoldering anything bigger than a small component. Most of your heat is probably being used just to heat the braid. Give your iron a couple of minutes between desoldering attempts to let it get back to full heat. I also find that I often have to press fairly hard on a small iron to transfer enough heat to desoldering braid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gringo699c Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 Also get a good one like a weller. chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members UMT Posted April 15, 2009 Author Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 I will definitely be 'tinning' that iron before I get started! Thanks for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cx04332 Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 If you do not have a soldering station, consider getting one instead of an iron.You get a selection of tip sizes and control of the heat with a station. They are priced reasonably. See:http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/summary_of_soldering_stations.htm A solder sucker is cheap and works well. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SSR-1/SOLDER-SUCKER/-/1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members archiemax Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 Spend eleven bucks at Radio Shack and get one of these: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 This is a 45-watt unit so it does the job real fast--just squeeze the bulb, place the tip over the connection, wait about one second (no kidding), release the bulb, and voila--a solder-free joint. (Oh yeah, then you've got to squeeze the bulb again and eject the solder into a can or whatever.) I never fire up my soldering iron without firing up the de-soldering iron too--Try it, you'll like it. Way better than using desoldering braid or whatever--You can maneuver the "bulb-iron" with one hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FlyingZ Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 Use "SODER-WICK" The wick at Radio Shack is terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Steverino Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 After you've removed as much of the solder from the "legs" that go through the board, you may have to heat each one and gently pry up on the jack a little, then move to the next one and pry it up. Try a very small jeweler's screwdriver or something that you can gently get in between the jack and the board. Be patient, it may take a few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 Two things. Always have a wet sponge to wipe the solde tip as you work. This prevents rosin from eating holes in the soft tip. Next you may need to add some flux solder to a joint before removing it, I used a hand held spring action solder sucker for years. It takes practice but gets the job done well so long as you keep the thing clean and lubed inside with a littel silicon grease. The grease also helps to prevent solder buildup on the plunger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WBigsby Posted April 15, 2009 Members Share Posted April 15, 2009 they make another kind of cleaner too, that doesn't cool the tip while cleaning (like water does) - I imagine one of those links posted above will have them too. I dunno, I just use a 30w, flux, and braid, but If you want perfect solders, then you're not me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members UMT Posted April 16, 2009 Author Members Share Posted April 16, 2009 Well, Thanks to everyone for their help. I was replacing the input jacks on a BR-600... In my case, they get alot of use and just started working sporadically. They have about 7 'contact points' that stick thru the PCB. I went and bought a new Weller 25watter and WALLAH! Made all the difference in the world. Once I got to thinking about it, I figured the cheap little soldering iron I had is probably 20 years old and it could be a 15 watter for all I know. Anyhow, VERY pleased with this Weller iron. But, try as I might, with 7 contact points sticking thru the board, I felt I was just ultimately putting too much heat to that area of the board so decided since I was replacing those input jacks anyway, I put a needle nose screwdriver in them, busted out the plastic and was then able to remove the 'contact points' one at a time with a little heat. Installed new jacks, soldered 'em up and works like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nos Posted April 16, 2009 Members Share Posted April 16, 2009 Congrats! Good feelin' ain't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members katillac Posted April 17, 2009 Members Share Posted April 17, 2009 Two things. Always have a wet sponge to wipe the solde tip as you work. This prevents rosin from eating holes in the soft tip. Point of contention here... ever since I stopped using a sponge and started using a coiled metal ball (the kind that looks like a kitchen scrubber), I have not had one single problem with tips corroding. When I used a sponge, I went through a lot of tips. The best I can figure is that the rapid change in temperature of using a sponge was changing the tip too much. I also stopped spending $12 for the Hakko coil thinger. I found a good supply of stainless steel ones at a local dollar store. They work just as well and I haven't even worn out my first one yet. It's lasted longer than the Hakko did. Score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Steverino Posted April 17, 2009 Members Share Posted April 17, 2009 But, try as I might, with 7 contact points sticking thru the board, I felt I was just ultimately putting too much heat to that area of the board so decided since I was replacing those input jacks anyway, I put a needle nose screwdriver in them, busted out the plastic and was then able to remove the 'contact points' one at a time with a little heat. Installed new jacks, soldered 'em up and works like a charm. Excellent. Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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