Jump to content

adhesive strips for ibeam


vetstudent

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Ok, well I've been tweaking the location of my ibeam and I only have one left (already moved it 4 times) I can't really get rid of the boominess without eq. down the bass a lot... I was really wanting to find a spot where I didn't have to do as much equing.

 

Anyway, I was just about to order some more adhesive strips when I wondered if the same tape could be found in a store somewhere??? I mean it's 3M tape. Don't tell me they make a special tape just for baggs!!! I'm sure they just have a jig to cut that fancy little shape with... Something I can easily do with an exacto knife.

 

Ok, so I searched the web and it looks like office depot has lots of rolls of 3M double sided foam tape and I'll bet one of them is the same stuff. For instance check this out http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=171561 It's a half inch wide and 75" long. If it's the same stuff I can make the strips for pennies!

 

Any advice??? Anybody else try something other than the strips that came with it???

 

Just FYI I just installed the I-mix and right now I'm turning the knob a lot more towards the element... just haven't found what I'm looking for in the ibeam yet. I can't get rid of the low end howl! I can softly strum a chord and it will softly howl into tomorrow unless I mute the strings!!!

 

Brent

  • Members
Posted

I would absolutely check with Baggs. They will probably send you more for free and at least tell you if you need a specific type with a specific thickness and properties. The chance is that the office depo stuff will be too thick or something. You might give it a try though. I guess it cant hurt. I'd still get Baggs to send some more.

 

Another that looks interesting and probably thin

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Tape/Double-stick_Tape.html

 

 

  • Members
Posted

LB,

 

I just e-mailed baggs about getting more strips... I can get more strips from bagg's dealers but they want about $1 each. I won't pay that! I payed for the whole system I should get the $.02 stickers free!!!

 

I would opt to buy a roll of double sided tape that is similar... at least then I would have a practically unlimited supply of strips (on a long roll anyway)

 

I actually thought about buying a roll of similar tape to just find the location (even if it doesn't stick good enough) and when I find "the spot" just take it off and put a "bagg's" strip on and put it back in the same spot. This would only work if the tape gave it similar sonic properties though??? This hurts my brain! Stressing over TAPE!!! I AM DUMB!!!

 

Oh yeah, I wonder how long it takes for the tape to set up making it difficult to remove??? I didn't know if I needed to take the ibeam off until I get more strips??? Is it a lot harder to get off after several days???

 

Thanks

 

Brent

  • Members
Posted

Hi Vetsudent,

 

I was trying to remember who used the 3m tape. It was Dougy Young in his pickup test.

http://www.dougyoungguitar.com/pickup_technotes.htm

 

He talks about installing it in to a Taylor, this is what he has to say,

The I-Beam was installed with the I-Beam tool, positioned under the bridge, but mounted with a piece of 3M double sided tape, suggested by the folks at More Music in Santa Cruz. My Installation.

 

 

rbr

  • Members
Posted

Did a little more research and noticed on the edge of my last remaining strip I can barely read "VHB" 3M is easily to read in the center of the label but the VHB is tough to make out. I did a google search for 3M VHB and I found out that VHB is an "industrial product" Yeah I'd have to buy a little more than necessary to get it!

 

There were lots of of variations in thickness too. I took an average price of the 1/2 inch stuff and did the math. If I bought it myself I could get a strip for about $.05 each. That's even without the bulk discount that I'm sure Bagg's or whoever gets!

 

Anyhow, I'm sure there are tapes out there that would do fine but I just don't have a clue how to tell which one's are right

 

Thanks

 

Brent

 

PS: Hopefully Baggs will come through on the e-mail and help me out. I'll be sure and comment on the customer service if/when I hear from them.

  • Members
Posted

Vetstudent,

 

Don't want o burst your bubble (and I'm sure a lot of people here are going to disagree w/ me), but I don't think repositioning the ibeam is going to help much. The trouble you are having is exactly why I pulled my K&K out of my Yairi and went back to the Fishman. Had to really EQ the lowend to keep it from howling.

Any contact transducer will behave the same way. That's the trade-off for a more natural sound. I have the Element on-board in my Rainsong and it's is good as it gets for the feedback resistance I need. I will often suppliment w/ an external condensor mic as conditions allow. Be glad you opted for the imix instead of just the straight ibeam.:)

  • Members
Posted

Sorry, one more thing.

 

I know the imix doesn't have a notch filter like the Element onboard. Are you running into a pre or amp that has a notch or phase inverter? If not, you may have to go with a baggs gig pro or other simple pre to get notch and/or phase inversion to tame the feedback of the ibeam.;)

  • Members
Posted

Rainsong,

 

Yes, I did say I was pleased... then I kept playing and playing and... well I decided to toy around with it. I moved it from the (directly under the saddle spot) which sounded pretty good. I moved it closer to the bridge pins and towards the treble... exactly like the directions say. Well in that spot it sounded like CRAP!!! Muddier than the Mississippi! I moved it a couple other times and still no better.

 

The place I left it at was with the front edge of the ibeam lined up with the saddle (ibeam closer to pins) with no offset towards treble or bass. It's the best place (I've found) so far.

 

I just thought if I had a few more strips I could experiment a little more and just see what it does. I actually read a few places where people had put it on the other side of the bridge pins and got the best results???

 

Anyhow, I am pleased with the sound right now but I do see what you're saying and it's definitely for the soft fingerstyle playing which sounds great through it. If I use a pick I just mix it about 1/2 and 1/2 maybe a little more element depending on what I'm playing. I think I'll just have to get used to it.

 

My acoustic amp has a notch and a phase filter which do settle down the howl. I also adjusted the lower frequency limit up a little on the imix pre-amp. That also took some of the mud away.

 

I am VERY glad I have the option of either the element or ibeam. Both serve their different purposes. If I'm playing fingerstlye like "more than words" or any Clapton or James Taylor I think the ibeam is FAR superior. However if I use a pick I just have to mix towards the element.

 

I think the ibeam is very versatile I'm just a freak about getting it set up to perfection (or as close as possible)

 

From what I've seen so far though... If I could have only one Id go with the element!!! It's no comparison to other UST's and it could be used for everything.

 

Brent

  • Members
Posted

Originally posted by vetstudent

Rainsong,


From what I've seen so far though... If I could have only one Id go with the element!!! It's no comparison to other UST's and it could be used for everything.


Brent

 

My sentiments exactly!!!:D

  • Members
Posted

My opinion so far with the Ibeam is that it needs to go directly under the saddle notch to get the best sound because it's so low in output. Even then you need a preamp and you really need a guitar with medium or at least light guage strings to drive it.

I installed it in an Alvarez with extra light strings and in the position recommended by the manufacturer and it sounded to faint to be good even with a pre-amp. Too much extraneous hiss when turned up enough to hear the pickup.

 

It's sounds better (less piezo "quack") and an UST because of the soundboard smoothing things in the signal chain but you have to get the thing as close to the saddle as possible.

  • Members
Posted

I certainly haven't had the problem with not enough output!!! I get plenty no matter where I put it!

 

I think there's a big difference between the passive and active models.

 

I think it may just be a little over sensitive for a mohogany top dred that resonates A LOT on its own.

 

Brent

  • Members
Posted

I certainly haven't had the problem with not enough output!!! I get plenty no matter where I put it!

 

Are you using the active model or passive one? Maybe I got a bad one?:confused:

  • Members
Posted

I've got the I-mix which is both the element and ibeam (both active) With the onboard mixer I could adjust the gain for the ibeam to match the element. It really didn't need that much gain added though.

 

I would say the I-mix is a little better for the ibeam than the regular "active ibeam" mainly because I can adjust the preamp's low and mid cut-off frequency's. Before adjusting the cut off up a little the sound was fairly muddy when strummed. I adjusted both the low and mid up just a tad and it sounded beautiful to my ears!

 

 

Without having this "semi-permanent" equalizing on the onboard pre-amp I don't think I would be pleased with the ibeam.

 

Brent

 

Oh yeah, I think the fact that its in an all solid wood guitar (Martin D-15) might have something to do with the high output too???

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...