Members semlogo Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 My friend here has a Blueridge basic acoustic guitar with a bridge problem. The bridge is lifting off the body. He tried gluing it down with gorilla glue, but to no avail. Does anybody know of a solution for this problem?
Members Eagleboy Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 Don't try to patch up a job like that with gorilla glue find a luthier, or a good shop.
Members guitarcapo Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 The best way is to remove the whole bridge, clean both surfaces and reglue with clamps. Use aliphatic resin glue (Elmer's Carpenter Glue) You typically remove the bridge by heating it with a clothes iron. Come to think of it you might want to get a luthier to do all this. If he's honest he shouldn't charge you more than 50 bucks......
Members LDF Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 I've heard it can cost quite a bit to do that kind of job. If it's only 50 bucks he should go for it - if he really likes the guitar. Otherwise it might be more cost effective to just get a new guitar since you said it was a basic model.
Members zookie Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 This recently happened to my Yamaha APX4 acoustic/electric. I took it to a luthier. The repair cost more than $50 since the electronics are in the bridge and he also reset the action. I know there's no way I could have taken care of that myself, and it was cheaper than a new guitar.
Members egordon99 Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 I just had the bridge reglued on my D25, and it cost $80, but that included a setup and rehumidifying it in the shop for about 4 weeks. The bridge reglue was about $50 of the job. Now don't talk to me about the cost of a re-fret I fear my D16H might need one
Members bjorn-fjord Posted March 10, 2005 Members Posted March 10, 2005 NEVER use polyurethane glue on a guitar! PU glue expands as it dries. In this case your friend actually exacerbated his problem and made a fairly simple repair more complicated. BTW, "your southern can is mine" should be attributed to Blind Willie McTell. No knock against Jack.
Members semlogo Posted March 13, 2005 Author Members Posted March 13, 2005 I did not know that (neither the glue fact nor quote attribution). Thanks for the info!
Members solitaire Posted March 13, 2005 Members Posted March 13, 2005 Originally posted by bjorn-fjord NEVER use polyurethane glue on a guitar! PU glue expands as it dries. In this case your friend actually exacerbated his problem and made a fairly simple repair more complicated.BTW, "your southern can is mine" should be attributed to Blind Willie McTell. No knock against Jack. Real luthiers use glue made from bone as this kind of glue does not kill the sound, as PVC and PU glues will to some degree. Isn't there something known as "bridge doctors" out there?
Members guitarcapo Posted March 13, 2005 Members Posted March 13, 2005 Yea, the best glue might be "hide glue" for tone.But it's more suceptible to heat and humidity. Martin uses aliphatic resin glue now. Hide glue has to be mixed in the proper ratio and apllied at the right temperature to get a good result. Less easy to work with than ARG.
Members digitalsnipe Posted March 13, 2005 Members Posted March 13, 2005 DO NOT USE A BRIDGE-DOCTOR. A properly installed bridge-doctor requires drilling out the peg holes to accomodate the brass reatiners. Besides, such a device is used to prevent the sound board beneath the bridge from nose-diving toward the sound hole only, i.e., re-leveling the sound board. It must be used with a properly glued-down bridge. A bridge-doctor used on a lifted bridge will crack it along the grain through the peg holes. That's the sad story about my Guild F-412.
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