Members rgordonrn Posted April 22, 2005 Members Posted April 22, 2005 I recently purchased a washburn d52sw. After playing it awhile, and making permanent action adjustments (saddle shaving, nut adjustment, new strings) I noticed a finish flaw at the butt of the guitar. Finish has pulled away from the wood giving the illusion of a crack. I am 99.9% sure the finish is catalyzed polymer. Can this type of finis be "melted"?. I am pretty handy, can this be repaired? if so how? There are no true luthiers in my area, just truss rod adjusters. Thanks
Members digitalsnipe Posted April 23, 2005 Members Posted April 23, 2005 Are you thinking of using a hot iron with a cloth between it and guitar to effect the repair? Is the flaw in the area of a structural glue joint? Just curious here. Catalized polymer? You mean a 2-part matrix polyurethane of base and catalyst? That's the finish we use on airplanes and it does not respond to heat in the manner I have indicated above. As a matter of fact, it is the most durable (temperature and abrasion resistent) finish you can get. However, I am not so sure that guitar makers utilize the polymer finish you describe. I believe it to be a 1-part evaporative polyurethane. If the finish has separated from the guitar as you describe, it will probably require sanding away to the wood and reapplied in several coats to build up to the original thickness of finish. Not a job for the feint-of-heart. Final sanding and lots of buffing will be required as well. I don't think I'd tackle the job. I have lots of finish flaws. Most of them are on my person. The ones on my guitar complement me. Character, you know
Members rgordonrn Posted April 23, 2005 Author Members Posted April 23, 2005 I agree. Although the guitar is new, the problem isn't noticeable enough to warrant my meddling. But if I find someone with the skills, I'd like it done.
Members digitalsnipe Posted April 24, 2005 Members Posted April 24, 2005 I would too. I have a 1973 Guild F-412 that needs top work. The luthier I know won't touch it but it is a guitar I will never sell. If I pass it on to my son I want it playable. So, I have been toying with the idea of doing the work myself. Courage to to so is currently in short supply. Am working on that.
Members tim Mcknight Posted April 24, 2005 Members Posted April 24, 2005 I would only "guess" that the finish is a 2 part catalyzed finish and finish repairs are very tricky on these products. If it was nitro it would be a simple drop fill repair. The only way to get a finish to bite into catalyzed finishes are to scuff them to provide a good mechanical bond. If it is a very small area you could fix it with CA (super glue) but that takes some skill. You can email me off line and I can walk you through it.
Members digitalsnipe Posted April 25, 2005 Members Posted April 25, 2005 Originally posted by tim Mcknight I would only "guess" that the finish is a 2 part catalyzed finish and finish repairs are very tricky on these products. If it was nitro it would be a simple drop fill repair. The only way to get a finish to bite into catalyzed finishes are to scuff them to provide a good mechanical bond. If it is a very small area you could fix it with CA (super glue) but that takes some skill. You can email me off line and I can walk you through it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Tim- You are a luthier. As such have you ever used a product named Micro-Mesh? It is a sort of emery cloth. It comes in various kits containing water-proof sheets of cloth ranging from 1500 to 12000 grit, an all-cotton cloth, high density foam rubber sanding block and anti-static buffing cream. I use it to restore optical clarity in airplane plexi-glass windshields. The MA1 kit contains the above and it lists for about $17.00 on the internet. I have also used it (8000 grit) on the finish of my guitar neck. Good stuff. Just some info.
Members tim Mcknight Posted April 25, 2005 Members Posted April 25, 2005 Originally posted by digitalsnipe ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tim- You are a luthier. As such have you ever used a product named Micro-Mesh? Good stuff. Just some info. Yes, I have used Micro-Mesh products but I personally prefer Mirka products: specifically Abrabnet and Abralon products. They are more durable and I have had less problems with them loading up. I have used one disc on my RO sander to sand several bodies. The product is expensive but it is more economical in the long run, at least for me...
Members digitalsnipe Posted April 25, 2005 Members Posted April 25, 2005 Originally posted by tim Mcknight Yes, I have used Micro-Mesh products but I personally prefer Mirka products: specifically Abrabnet and Abralon products. They are more durable and I have had less problems with them loading up. I have used one disc on my RO sander to sand several bodies. The product is expensive but it is more economical in the long run, at least for me... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Well, one good turns deserves another. Thanks for the tip. I just might try the product you mention. The Micro-Mesh is good for spot-blending by hand using it wet. I have never had a problem with it loading up but, then again, I never got involved with machine applications.
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