Members braif Posted February 12, 2004 Members Posted February 12, 2004 Hi Folks! Well, I just got home from a spur of the moment stop at the Pawn Shop on the way home from work. I found a Gibson J-45 Deluxe and I went ahead and bought it without doing any research because I was afraid it would be gone before I got back. The body, top and finish are in good shape, with no major dings or scratches. There is however a crack going from the soundhole toward the bridge...it has a small piece of wood glued on the backside of the crack, I assume to prevent propogation. The crack also extends from the top of the soundhole to the treble side of the fretboard. The tortoise shell binding on the backside is also seriously degraded (cracked and even a small length missing..about a half inch). The binding on the top is OK but not perfect.) It appears to be all original and the tuners are in excellent shape. The finish could best be described as a honey burst. The serial number is B000662 with a 2 above it (I hope that doesn't mean factory second). My impression is that it is 50's or 60's. The sticker on the inside is intact. I says Gibson model J-45 Deluxe (along with some guarantees and "union made". Made in Kalamazoo. I paid 270 dollars. I have a few questions: Are the defects (binding and cracks) something that a luthier would be able to fix? Does it behoove me (from a value standpoint) to go to the expense of restoring it? I took some digital pictures but I can't seem to get them off of the camera If I have any luck, I'll post them I appreciate any help!!
Members SurrealMcCoy Posted February 12, 2004 Members Posted February 12, 2004 If you didn't grab it.........I would have! Several months ago, I picked up a Takamine nylon string for $150 from a pawn shop.........no regrets;)
Members LittleBrother Posted February 12, 2004 Members Posted February 12, 2004 I would say only repair what is needed. If it is valuable then restoration will ruin the value. If it's not very valuable then restoration is a waste of money. Either way cosmetic flaws and cracks in the finish add to the mojo and wont hurt a thing. Once we see pictures it will mean alot. Take closeups of the bridge area too.
Members telenate Posted February 12, 2004 Members Posted February 12, 2004 Vintage Gibson Info Web site indicates B + 6 digits is a 1974-1975 model.
Members braif Posted February 12, 2004 Author Members Posted February 12, 2004 Thanks guys for the replies!! Littlebrother, I'll post pics as soon as I can get them off of my antique digital camera......aaaarrrrrrggghhhh Telenate, that is good information! Thanks for the link! Looking at it now, that seems like it should be about right! Anyone know if the 2 above the serial number means that it is a factory second?
Members braif Posted February 12, 2004 Author Members Posted February 12, 2004 Well I answered my own question....according to the Gibson website, the 2 apparently does mean that it is a factory second Oh well, I may not have scored a major deal, but it's the best 270.00 guitar I own. It looks, plays and sounds very nice...I guess I didn't do too bad
Members dave251 Posted February 12, 2004 Members Posted February 12, 2004 Originally posted by telenate Vintage Gibson Info Web site indicates B + 6 digits is a 1974-1975 model. I've got good news and I"ve got bad news... The good news is you got a good deal. The bad news is that it's a Norlin J45(and a second), probably the square shouldered dread, and will have the dreaded "double X" bracing pattern. The problem isn't so much the double X, it's the big square of top that is double thickness with bridge plate that sucks the tone right out of these guitars. To be sure what you've got, you'll have to get a mirror and look inside at the bracing. As far as the cracks...the one between the soundhole and bridge is no big deal...but I"ll bet the one between the soundhole and freboard runs all the way to the neck block alongside the FB...a pain to fix, but an absolute necessity for the longevity of the instrument...there's a lot of stress in this area of the guitar, and almost ALL Gibsons develop this crack(much like Martin's ubiquitous "pickguard" crack), except that with the Gibsons...you're likely to get major soundboard distortion and have the crack worsen. There is a fix, and it's not expensive..but I'd at least get that much done. As far as the binding...probably not worth screwing with...it's just cosmetics anyway. Post a pic if you can...
Members braif Posted February 12, 2004 Author Members Posted February 12, 2004 Many, Many thanks Dave! Yup, it is a square shouldered dread! I'll get a mirror and check the bracing. I have to say, it sound pretty nice to me, but of course I don't have a lot (Gibson wise) to compare it to...and I agree I think I still got a pretty good deal...at least I can say I own a Gibson
Members princeadr Posted August 20, 2005 Members Posted August 20, 2005 I've got a 1974 J45 Deluxe and it was made in Kalamazoo. It sounds great. Very full and even tone and it is pretty loud. Many friends with Martin like it a lot.
Members LeGreatOne Posted August 21, 2005 Members Posted August 21, 2005 Hey, you didn't pay very much, you got a brand name, and you LIKE the guitar! Those are all positives!You may want to experiment with different string sets. For easy action and more depth of sound I recommend Martin silk & Steel. Martin Marquis 80/20 are good as well, but more brassy.Both Martin sets are very smooth to the touch, unlike D'Addario.If you want to get the LOUDEST strings, you'll want a medium or heavier gauge stringset.I think the lower tension light-medium Silk & Steel strings have a lot of good qualities.
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