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Strange buzz on new martin


Redsand187

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Posted

Well, I just put the first new set of strings on my new Martin and now I'm getting a weird buzz from the low E. Well, maybe. I think it might actually be the tuner. But I'm not sure. It obviously somewhere from the 3rd fret up towards the head stock. I'm almost positive it's not the frets. The action is high, and if I fret a not anywhere on the string, the buzzing stops.

 

The strings are a little heavier then stock, Markley Medium Lights. (12-54) Is it possible that it is coming from the nut? The string being a little too large for the slot and binding/buzzing?

 

It is intermiten too. If I pick really light or really hard, it doesn't seem to make the noise.

 

Any ideas that I can check before I bring it to someone that actually knows what they are doing? :)

 

Edit: it seems that if I listen closely I can hear it as I pick each string... I swear it sounds like a loose tuner.:confused:

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Posted

What model Martin?

 

More importantly, what model tuners?

 

I had a similar problem with my new D18V, with the Martin-branded Gotoh open-back tuners. Only, my guitar buzzed when I played an open G.

 

If you have these tuners, the bushings may not be pressed-in tightly, and the small washer may be rattling. If this is the case DO NOT TURN THE BUSHING. Although it has a hex head, it is not threaded, it is pressed in. (turning the bushing will actually make it worse!) Just press the bushings down tightly into the headstock during your next string change. That should take care if it.

 

If you have different, closed-back tuners, they are threaded, and may, indeed need a bit of a twist to tighten them up.

 

You may also want to review Frank Ford's "buzz diagnosis" page at frets.com.

 

Good luck!;)

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Posted

It's a D-15 Limited Addition, sealed tuners. I'm almost postive that it is the tuner(s). I guess I'll bring it in tomorrow and see what they say.

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Posted

I think your string change to heavier gauge is the problem. as you said the string may be wider than the nut and not seating well. did you put the older strings back on to see /hear a difference?

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Posted

Are you sure? It seemed like the Markely's were larger. I don't even know what happened to the strings I took off of it. My garbage can is full of assorted guitar strings.

 

From what I remember, it would seem that the strings were probably Custom's not mediums. By the way it is the limited edition d15 not the standard all mahagony.

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Posted

I had the same problem with my D-16RGT. I could hear the buzzing, but couldn't tell for sure at first where it was coming from.

 

I finally tracked it down to the nut on my "G" string tuner. The washer underneath the nut was the culprit. All I had to do was tighten the nut a little, which kept the washer from vibrating.

 

Hopefully, this will help you.

  • 1 year later...
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Posted

I have the same tuners as described by Steely: Martin logo open back tuners. They are rattling when I play the open G string, just like he had stated. I took a closer look at them and there is a slight gap between the hex nuts and the washers below them, and even between the washers and the wood in some cases.

 

I took small pieces of paper and wedged them into these slight gaps and the buzz went away. OK, good.

 

So, he mentions not to turn the hex nut. Is that what the rest of you get from his post. He mentions to push the bushing down on the next string change. Is he saying push down on the hex thing? Is that the bushing he says to push down on? If I press everything down to tighten up the washer and hex nut, won't this problem come back eventually.

 

On the back of the headstock, where you can see the open gears, the actual gears have screws in the center of them. Would turning these screws tighten up the tuners to sure up the hex-washer-wood gap on the upper side of the headstock?

 

Appreciate any feedback you can give.

 

By the way, it really is amazing how this forum helps when you have a problem and you do a search. Otherwise it would be a roadtrip and hard cash to a guitar repairer.

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Posted

I don't have a guitar with these tuners, but I have seen them. They are built very much like the tuners on my mandolin. If you are not sure or uncomfortable doing this take it to a qualified repair person.

 

 

So, he mentions not to turn the hex nut. Is that what the rest of you get from his post.

yes.

He mentions to push the bushing down on the next string change. Is he saying push down on the hex thing?

yes. He says the wood is not threaded, so turning would possibly enlarge the hole, making the problem more likely to return. The hex thing is the bushing not a nut.

If I press everything down to tighten up the washer and hex nut, won't this problem come back eventually.

I would expect the hex bushing to be press fit and very tight. A likely reason it was not seated properly to begin with. If difficult to seat it should not loosen again.

On the back of the headstock, where you can see the open gears, the actual gears have screws in the center of them. Would turning these screws tighten up the tuners to sure up the hex-washer-wood gap on the upper side of the headstock?

Do not do this to seat the bushing! You may have to adjust this after seating the bushing. You could snap the screw trying to seat the bushing with it. This screw will adjust the tension it takes to turn the tuner. Too loose and it won't stay in tune, too tight you will have difficulty tuning accurately.

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Posted

Check the nuts by the tuner shafts. Check the screws that hold the buttons on the tuners.

 

If that's not it, it could be the truss rattling. Try tightening the truss just a little till you feel some resistance. Probly less than 1/4 turn.

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Posted

I loosened the strings and pressed down on the hex bushings and the buzz has gone away when I brought the strings back up to pitch.

 

Still, it seems like a ridiculous design if friction is the only thing to keep the hex bushing tight on the washer and the washer tight on the wood.

 

It would be great to hold an assemble in my hand and see how it goes together. There must be a way to keep it tight.

 

Maybe I should finally join UMGF and pose the question there.

 

Nah!

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Posted

It's not complicated.

 

The case has small spikes that catch the wood on the back of the head. The hex/bushing when tightened pulls the spikes into the wood. The little screw on the back just holds the tuner in place while the hex is being tightened. It does'nt do anything els. It's the spikes that hold it in place.

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