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Compensated Bone Saddle


Whalebot

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Posted

I need one for Rada's old A&L folk, (sorry hon, but the action was a tad low for me!) So's I was wondering if anyone around here knows where to get an acceptable drop in for this style of guitar? I'll sand it down to size, but I'm not sure of what width etc. to buy.

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Posted

Originally posted by Whalebot

I need one for Rada's old A&L folk, (sorry hon, but the action was a tad low for me!) So's I was wondering if anyone around here knows where to get an acceptable drop in for this style of guitar? I'll sand it down to size, but I'm not sure of what width etc. to buy.

 

Contact Bob at www.guitarsaddles.com - He is the man.

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Posted

Get all the measurements you can, then call Bob Colosi. A pair of dial or digital calipers would be best if you know a machinist.

 

http://www.guitarsaddles.com/

 

StewMac, LMI and others sell saddle blanks but they will not be compensated and will take a lot more fitting. In most cases they will be way too big and you just sand and cut to fit.

 

There is a great sticky on the Tech Forum at UMGF on how to make a saddle at home, as there is in the lastest issue of AG mag. Neither tells how to compensate it tho.

 

As you know, you can shim a too low saddle (I've used a piece of plastic from the edge of a credit card). It will kill some of the tone but at least you can experiment with height.

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Posted

 

Originally posted by Freeman Keller

As you know, you can shim a too low saddle (I've used a piece of plastic from the edge of a credit card). It will kill some of the tone but at least you can experiment with height.

 

 

I agree with this experiment. I did it on one guitar (.010 acetate) and was very happy with the resulting playability - not to mention proud of my self for actually trying this. But, it killed the bridge pup so I had to make a new saddle. That took some time but the dims I got from experimenting I duplicated in the new saddle and, well, all's well that ended well.

 

That said, why would a piece of plastic cancel out the bridge P/U? Is the plastic that much of a vibration damper?

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Posted

Thanks guys, excellent advice, as usual. I did try the shim, but it killed oh, 90% of my tone. Hopefully Bob can help me out.

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Posted

 

Originally posted by Whalebot

Thanks guys, excellent advice, as usual. I did try the shim, but it killed oh, 90% of my tone. Hopefully Bob can help me out.

 

No problem. Bob is a legend.

 

I bought a bone saddle from him for a Washburn I use to own.

 

I might order a bone or ivory saddle for my Larrivee. I like the sound of the Tusq, I'm just curious how bone or ivory would sound. I'm also considering replacing my bridege pins with bone pins. Bob sells saddles, nuts and bridge pins.

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Posted

Hud, there was a comparison on, I believe, the technical forum of UMGF of Tusq vs bone - actual sound clips on some sort of Martin. Don't have time to look for it right now but it should be fairly near the top of the forum. The consensus was that most responders prefered the tusq.

 

If you can't find it let me know - I can do some searching later today.

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Posted

 

Originally posted by Sweb

That said, why would a piece of plastic cancel out the bridge P/U? Is the plastic that much of a vibration damper?

I would think so. I believe those pups take the vibes right from the saddle. So anything between the pup and the saddle would hinder the transfer of vibes.

 

Also, a note about shims: I would not recommend more than one shim, say, the thickness of a credit card, (actualy you could probly put two in there, but...) because with more than that, a saddle may begin to lean towards the soundhole, and that leaning can damage the saddle slot.

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