Is "Buzzing" unavoidable?

[clipari]

I just got a Martin 000C-16RGTE, and it had some buzz when I first got it. I took it to my local luthier and he said that it just needed a simple neck adjustment, which I took as just a quick turn of the truss rod... So, after he charged me $20, most of the buzz was gone, but there was still an audible buzz occuring.

 

Is this normal? Is there any way around it? Am I just supposed to live with this buzzing? Is there such a thing as no buzzing?

[kwakatak]

Well, it could either be a high fret somewhere or the saddle needs to be shimmed to raise the action a little. Get a second opinion from another tech if you're not sure about the first guy.

[SpaceCowboy409]

Originally posted by kwakatak

Well, it could either be a high fret somewhere or the saddle needs to be shimmed to raise the action a little. Get a second opinion from another tech if you're not sure about the first guy.

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+1

 

Buzzing is not normal and can almost always be easily fixed.

[clipari]

Kwakatak,

Do you have a good guy that you go to in the Pittsburgh area? I thought that this guy was pretty reputable, but there is still a hint of buzz and I want it gone... Or, do you think I'm being to anal? I think I'm probably the only one that might notice it...

[kwakatak]

Try the Guitar Doctor at Hollowood in Robinson Twp. I had my Tak worked on by him a couple years back. When it came time to pick it up I made sure to check it out before leaving. Sure enough, there was a buzz and he gladly took it back to his workbench to fix the problem. He worked it out in less than 5 minutes.

[Highway_61]

I've completely lost faith in my guy. It's always 40.00, not 20.00, and buzzing remains.

I quit taking my guitars to him.

I've tried some of the excellent methodology of our own Freeman Keller, and it worked wonders on one guitar (APX5A plays like a dream now). But I think that was beginner's luck: I haven't been able to replicate my success. It's a bit like those Chilton books: They show you how to replace the plugs and pistons, but there are still only a few artists that can make an engine run with exquisite precision.

 

I need a guitar tech capable of that exquisite precision. I'm in Phoenix. Recommendations, anyone?

[Freeman Keller]

Hey, guys, let me chime in by saying that I don't think that buzzing is unavoidable, but some people swear that a well set up guitar will buzz under some conditions. Here is the little bit that I know about buzzing (and I have had to chase some buzzes on both of my homemade guitars) -

 

There are basically two types of buzzes - in one case it will buzz at one fret (and sometimes only one string). That is usually a high fret - lets say 8 is a hair high. When you fret at 7 the vibrating string will hit 8. Sometimes it only happens when you pluck hard, sometimes you can actually hear the note from the 8th fret instead of 7. Just play up the neck 5, 6, 7, (but the note will jump to 8). The test is a short straight edge that will span 3 frets but no more (I think mine is a couple of inches long) - you will feel a definite rocking on 8. Simple fix is to reseat the fret or flatfile and recrown. Note, this seems to happen a lot at the neck joint - 13, 14 15.

 

Second cause is a combination of relief and action. The symptoms will be buzzing on several frets either at the first position or at the neck joint. Look at this little drawing and imagine a bunch of frets as little (equal height) bumps along the bowed line

 

 

If you pull the string down at the nut end and don't have enough relief it can hit the next fret - therefore, if your buzzing is on the first few frets adding a little relief (loosening the truss rod) or raising the action, can eliminate it.

 

Now, imagine pulling that string down to the bowed line at near the neck joint - say 10 or 11 or 12. See how it will be very close to the next higher fret, particularly 12 or 13. If your buzzing is in the upper part of the neck you might have too much relief - by making the neck flatter (tighten the TR) you will bring that valley up and get the string above the next fret. The characteristics of either too little or too much relief is that usually the buzz will be the next fret from the one you are fretting (unlike the high fret which is alway that one). This can be a little misleading too, because the TR only changes the neck up to the joint (12 on most guitars) - from there on up the fretboard is flat like the drawing. If you are buzzing right at 12 it is possible that it is too much relief and a high fret - this is tricky (and drove me crazy on the classical).

 

Wade thru Bryan's wonderful analysis of the interaction between relief and action any you will begin to understand this subtle relationship.

 

http://www.bryankimsey.com/setup/neck_relief_1.htm

 

Last buzzing is when the string behind the fretted point buzzes on the next one back - usually only the lower frets. This is caused by the nut being too low - check by capoing at 2, 3 and 4, and looking at the string behind the capo - it should just clear the previous fret.

 

Frank Ford has a great article on diagnosing buzzes as does the Taylor site. Those are linked at the end of the "Sick Guitar" sticky under "What do the Experts Say".

 

Now, can someone help me adjust my carburator?