Two-Parter on Neck Reset Necessity

[knockwood]

Warning: Stupid Questions Follow.

 

I have kind of a two-part question regarding neck reset necessity and poss. remedy other than a typical reset. Not sure which part I'm dumber on.

 

1) What is it that actually brings about the necessity for a reset? I know it's the force of string tension over time, but specifically how is alignment impacted? Is it actually the neck being pulled out of alignment? Or is it tension on the bridge pulling up - "bellying" - the top so that saddle height relative to the neck becomes untenably outta whack? Both?

 

2) The second part has to do with the odd-looking under-bridge JLD contraption used as a standard feature in Breedlove's bracing (2nd and 3rd images from top):

 

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/XGallery/xgallery4.html

 

First part of my second question (all right, I guess this is technically a three-parter) is does this kind of thing obviate neck resets for Breedloves? I mean, if you are able to eliminate the "forward roll" of the bridge, does this also eliminate the eventual need for a reset?

 

2b) If so, why isn't it, or variations of it, used more widely?

[Queequeg]

If I understood part one of your question, Knockwood, you don't do a neck reset in order to compensate for a bellying top.

(forgive me if I misunderstood the question.)

I had heard that Breedlove was pre-emptively installing JLDs. I doubt if this will become the standard in the industry. I'm a believer in them, though. Great idea, before or after the need arises.

I think its a good idea to release some tension on a guitar that is not being played regularly.

[knockwood]

 

Originally posted by Queequeg If I understood part one of your question, Knockwood, you don't do a neck reset in order to compensate for a bellying top. (forgive me if I misunderstood the question.)

 

 

Thanks. You didn't misunderstand the question. I've just never been clear on the mechanics involved in getting a guitar to a point where a reset is required.

[bjorn-fjord]

A reset is performed to counter the distortion of the guitar from the pull of the strings. It doesn't really fix the problems that create high action, it kinda sidesteps them.

 

The distortion itself varies from guitar to guitar but the most common types of problems that are alleviated by a neck reset begin with the soundboard.

As mentioned top bellying arises from the twisting forces on the bridge. There are other ways to fix this problem but they're more difficult and can have a negative impact on the sound of the guitar.

 

The other common reason to perform a reset is to counter the distortion resulting from the "tipping' of the headblock and and contraction around the soundhole that forces the end of the fretboard down toward the back of the guitar.

 

Resets are also performed to correct for a warped neck but this is more common in guitars that pre-date neck reinforcement bars and truss rods. IMO, a better fix for this problem is to remove the fretboard and install and adjustable truss-rod but some vintage purists and collecters object to this because it alters the guitar.

[Freeman Keller]

Knockwood, I tried to put off having the neck reset on my 12 string by installing a JLD. It didn't work on that guitar (and with a little more time I can explain why), I had the neck done and life is good. Both of my Martins had resets last year - it is just something that probably will be necessary on most guitars during their lifetime.

 

If you are interested in experimenting with a Bridge Doc mine is available. It is the kind that does not require drilling holes thru the bridge (as Kwakatak's did) so you will not damage the git if it doesn't work.

 

Bjorn describes what is going one pretty well. I like to think that the strings are pulling back on the headstock, rotating it in the neck block. At the same time the neck extension is pushing down on the top at the upper bout, and rotating the bridge forward at the lower bout (this is what the JLD tries to fix). Basically the strings are trying to fold the guitar in half. Along with the neck angle changing over 25 years, my 12 string had a loose bridge and significant belly, and the saddle was down to almost nothing. The JLD marginally lowered the belly and would have helped with the loose saddle (by clamping it down), but did nothing to fix the neck angle.

[JasmineTea]

I would think the JLD would be a tone killer, would'nt it? I think the sales pitch is that it transferes top vibration to the back and sides via the endpin. But I'd be inclined to think attaching something like that to the top would have the opposite effect, no?