Is my bridge pulling off?

[teknicolor]

Hi everyone, this is my first post even though I've been reading the forum for some time.

I'm just learning to play/care for my guitar. Today i changed the saddle from plastic to bone on my 1973 nylon string Giannini and was amazed at how much better it sounds. Who knew such a small part of my guitar would make such a big difference in sound, even to my untrained ear.

Anyhow, while I was doing so, I noticed that there is some slight sepparation from the body at the bottom of the bridge (enough to fit the corner of a business card under it), does this mean my bridge is pulling off? and if so, is it worth having it fixed on a low end, all laminate guitar? I love the way the guitar sounds, however, I don't want to spend a lot of money on it.

I just bought an all solid Arturo Huipe which I will probably end up using a lot more than the Giannini.

Thanks,

Jeff

[dwerlin]

this happened on my wife's old Oscar Schmidt all-laminate acoustic. the repair cost me $80, and if it were my guitar i wouldn't have done it at all. since it was my wife's though, and she wanted it, we did the repair.

if you're emotionally attached to the guitar, then it may be worth it to fix the bridge. if you just love the tone, shop around first to see if you can find something not too expensive that you like the sound (and feel) of just as much.

[Freeman Keller]

It does sound like the bridge is pulling up, altho many manufactures glue the bridge on after the top has been finished and they will make the gluing surface slightly smaller than the bridge. This means that there will be a tiny gap around the perimeter and you might be able to slide a card under it. The classicals that I'm familiar with (which isn't too many) all had the bridge glued on before the top was finished.

As you know the on a classical the bridge is the sole anchor for the strings and has to withstand the full tension. It is entirely possible that it is pulling loose. Assuming it was glued on with either hide or AR glue it can be removed, cleaned up and reglued. The location has to be done very carefully and you will need a clamping caul for both the inside (notched for the fan bracing) and for the bridge, as well as a couple of really deep clamps.

Is it worth fixing? I would certainly think so. It frankly shouldn't cost that much - particularly if you find someone who builds or works on classicals who would have the clamps and cauls.

btw - can you take a picture and post it?

[teknicolor]

Thanks for the replies.
This is a picture of the bribge, as you can see it's only separating under the part where the tension is, and it does not look like the top is finished under the bridge. Also the piece of paper does not go in any deeper than this.
I have no emotional attachment to the guitar besides the fact that I spent money to buy it; I like the way it looks (the sole reason why I bought it), and I like the way it sounds (which may not mean much as I am only just learning).
Would it be possible to loosen the strings and put it away for a while, until I'm trained enough to be able to tell if it really sounds good or not?

[Freeman Keller]

Jeff, it is very possible that it won't get any worse, and if it does you can make the decision to fix it then. FWIW, here is the procedure to remove and reglue the bridge.

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/ReglueBr/regluebr1.html

I guess one possibility would be to try to work some AR glue (don't use CA or white) into the gap, but you wouldn't have any good way to clamp it. I have heard of people doing this with a steel string and using a couple of machine bolts thru the pin holes to apply some clamping pressure. The advantage of doing this is you don't have the alignment issues - the disadvantage is that you can't get a good glue job.

If you continue to play it the worst that will happen is the gap will increase - it isn't going to destroy the guitar. Good luck.

[teknicolor]

Thanks so much FK for all the great info/advice.