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G String buzz


highpressur

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Posted

I have a nasty sounding buzz coming from the G string. It's not fret buzz. When the strings were new I didn't notice it. It sounds like it comes from the body. Larrivee l-03r.

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OK, I'm going to ask the classic question - how is the humidity? Has anything else changed since "when the strings were new"? One of the symptoms of low humidity is, as Jean Larrivee says "Fret Ends will feel sharp, Soundboard and back will become flat or collapsed (concave), action will feel lower, guitar will likely buzz, Bridge wings will appear concave, after several months the bridge may

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Posted

Remove the string and inspect the G slot in the nut. Dirt or debris in the slot can create buzz but not allowing the string to seat properly.

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Posted
OK, I'm going to ask the classic question - how is the humidity? Has anything else changed since "when the strings were new"? One of the symptoms of low humidity is, as Jean Larrivee says "Fret Ends will feel sharp, Soundboard and back will become flat or collapsed (concave), action will feel lower,
guitar will likely buzz
, Bridge wings will appear concave, after several months the bridge may

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Posted

 

I try to keep the humidity 40-50%, as practical as I can. Some of the fret ends do feel a little sharp. How fast can a guitar dry out or absorb water?

 

 

here is the whole Larrivee article - 1 to 3 days at 25 percent can be pretty bad.

 

http://www.larrivee.com/flash/features/education/humidity/humidity.html

 

When I built my 000 last March I was so proud and left it out on a stand. In one month the top finish was checking, fret ends were sharp, and action had dropped (but it wasn't buzzing). Now it sleeps in its case with a sponge by its head and a Dampit stuck in its navel.

 

Here is another good article on humidity

 

http://www.bryankimsey.com/problems/index.htm#Dry_Guitars

 

I'm not saying that is your problem, but I suggest ruling it out before you do anything else - particularly since you say your git just sorta changed all by itself.

 

If it is not humidity related and you are sure the balls of the strings are well seated and you are sure that the buzz/rattle is comming from the body, here are a few other things to check

 

1) Loose or broken brace - tap the top with your fingertips or get dental inspection mirror and look around inside

2) Loose pickguard (happened to me)

3) Rattly wires from UST or other internal electronics

4) Dried outTwinkies (I guess that falls under humidity problems)

5) Loose truss rod nut or washer (assuming it is the kind that adjusts thru the soundhole)

6) Loose neck mounting screw (bolt on or MT)

7) That pick that disappeared last month

8) Sympathetic buzz from something else vibrating - after all the body is designed to be a big sound amplifier.

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Posted

I found this cool picture of what could be wrong


bridgepin01.jpg

 

 

I guess I should know this but I don't,so I'll ask.

 

which one is correct?The one pulled up past the end of the pin or the one pulled tight against the end.

 

by your comment I'm guessing the one pulled tight to the end.correct?

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Posted

I guess I should know this but I don't,so I'll ask.


which one is correct?The one pulled up past the end of the pin or the one pulled tight against the end.


by your comment I'm guessing the one pulled tight to the end.correct?

 

No. :(

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Posted

 

One more reason I like slotted pin holes. I guess the ramp on the end of the one pin is so the ball will slide off of it. Didn't work too well, eh?

 

 

 

am I reading this right?or just misunderstanding what is said?

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Posted

Happy, neither one is correct. The one on the right is pretty common - the ball is not againt the bridgeplate (which is the piece of wood under the bridge that strenghtens the top). In the case of the right one, the pin is wedging the string in but as you tune up you might hear it ping or pop, and the wedging action might force the pin up out of its hole. The ball will vibrate against the pin and make the buzzing sound.

 

The one on the left, with the ball at the end of the pin, is much less common, but might happen if you used the pin to push the string into the hole.

 

Neil posted a good picture of how it should look, here is another

 

http://www.taylorguitars.com/global/pdfs/string_guitar.pdf

 

Lastly, my comment about slotting the bridge is reference to some guitars that have a slot in the wood of the bridge, top and bridgeplate for the string to pass thru. The pin does not have a slot (or is turned around) but works the same way to hold the string in the bridge slot. Each hole is slotted to fit the approximate size string that belongs there - narrow for the high E, wide for the low. It is more work to make it this way, obviously, but some people feel that it gives be connection between the string and the top.

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Posted

Freeman,

 

That is a great picture. It clearly shows how you can be close, but not close enough. That is why I always push my mirror and flashlight routine, even then, you have to get a clear view from the side to be sure.

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Posted

I put a little bend in the string at the ball. I insert the string with the bend towards the headstock. I pull up on the string as I insert the bridge pin. After the bridge pin is installed, I feel inside the guitar to make sure the ball is setted properly against the bridge plate. I repeat the procedure until all 6 bridge pins are installed. I attach the strings to the tuning posts last.

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