Sustain and action relationship......

[Hamhand]

I have an old Gibson that I had the action lowered on. Now I feel like it doesn't sustain as well, am I imagining this? My other Gibson goes off like a cannon and rings for a while, but, it still has the original high action. I'd like to lower it too,but, not if it's going to go soft on me. I do love how easy it is to play with the lower action. Indulge my inexperience if you will.

[Burningleaves]

I fooled around with the action on my Martin OOO a few years ago. I lowered it and found that it lost alot of it's "oomph" and gained a bit of treble. The sustain wasnt as nice either. I ended up putting it back to "normal". I dont really play high on the fretboard unless I am using a capo so it wasnt a big deal going back. In the end I figured a part of the "Martin tone" or the tone I like hearing from this Martin guitar if you like... def' had to do with the action height.

 

 

I play it unplugged btw.

[WaveRay]

When I first got my 28V, I took it to my luthier for an initial setup. I asked about how lowering the action would affect the tone of the guitar. I was concerned because the tone of this guitar was the reason I bought it. He told me the possibility of some tone loss was there. I chose to leave it be and get used to medium action. Don't want to screw with near perfection. IMO.

[Freeman Keller]

A quick guess would be if you lower the break angle you won't have as much driving force on the saddle. Many techs will ramp the string slots as part of a good setup. FWIW when my D-18 was worked over it got significantly louder. Because several things were done at the same time (including lowering the action a lot and both slotting and ramping) I can't say which thing had the most effect but I do know it came back a cannon.

[AugTPD]

I had an old guitar of mine set up with really low action and my luthier slotted and ramped the strings setting a proper break angle. It actually increased the volume and sustain from the factory set up. FK is right that the break angle is probably one of the more important factors. But if it gets too steep the extra stress can cause strings to break. There's a happy middle ground to find on most guitars.

 

This thread has just made me realize that I need to dump some money and have the bridge on my MF80C slotted and ramped! Dang you Freeman Keller for bringing these things up!!!!!! When my wife gets ticked I spent more money having my guitars worked on I'll tell her to PM you with a strongly worded complaint! hehehehe

[Freeman Keller]

You could just do it your self

 

Slotting and Ramping

[AugTPD]

I'd like to do it myself, but I wouldn't try it for the first time on what I consider one of my "lifetime guitars". I've been considering buying a cheaper guitar with some "issues" so I can learn how to really do my own work. I've recently become very interested in guitar repair/construction. I eventually want to buy one of the Martin or Stewart McDonald kits and build a guitar of my own, but that will wait for awhile!!!

[Freeman Keller]

I hear you. I don't work on my Martins, other than minor setup stuff. My first attempt at a neck reset was a POS mandolin - it is still in pieces . And when you get ready to try a kit, let me lead you astray, er, help. We can go over to Knock's house and use his new tools.

[guit30]

Break angle has a big effect on tone, when I had a pro set up done on my Alvarez, He actually raised the saddle to make the break angle better and lowered the action at the nut. So it sounded better and had lower action at the same time

Jim

[Hamhand]

Thanks, all. I went back and compared the two guitars. They both are actually slotted and ramped. I think maybe the strings installed were a bit lighter on the one with the lower action, hence the lower volume? You learn something everyday in guitar land..........

[Cripes]

I had a similar problem on a guitar and was told there would be a loss of tone. But, I like low action so I had my luthier lower the saddle and shave down the bridge to keep the break angle. You really couldn't tell there was any difference in the bridge and the tone seemed the same to me. The bridge pin holes required only the slightest bit of reaming. It was a Martin OM and man it was sweet to play after that.

[knockwood]

I hear you. I don't work on my Martins, other than minor setup stuff. My first attempt at a neck reset was a POS mandolin - it is still in pieces . And when you get ready to try a kit, let me lead you astray, er, help. We can go over to Knock's house and use his new tools.

 

I'll stash a few extra cases of Stella.

 

I've never really used a capo much until around a week ago. I'm noticing it seriously cramps my sustain, although the slinky action is fun.