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acoustic strings... what gauge is too light?


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Posted

I don't really like the heaviness of the standard 12's on my acoustic, but I don't want something that will end up being too light sounding. Are 10's too light? Electric strings maybe? Also, could the bridge being somewhat high cause the strings to feel too heavy, or tight or something? I'm mainly an electric player, so forgive whatever dumb questions I may have.

 

btw, this is for acoustic electric

 

 

 

thanks!

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Posted

You could try Silk & String light gauge:

.011 -014 -023W -031 -041 -051

 

Martin Studio Performances Series Custom Lights:

.011 -015 -23W -32W -042W -052W or

ultra lights: .

.010 -014 -023W -030W - 039W -047W

 

The customs light I think will do just fine, I wouldn't go any lighter. Check your guitars action it maybe to high ..... a setup may be needed. It could be your so use to that low, low action of an eletric guitar the action of an acoustic feels strange. Anyway, checkout Freeman Keller , "Is My Guitar Sick" thread, very useful info. Cheers.

 

Trina

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Posted

No questions are dumb if you don't know the answers. Start with lighter strings until you build your fingers up, strength and callus wise. Move up if you can, as heavier strings usually bring out the true sound potential of a guitar..to a point. Don't go much over what the mfg. recommends. You can also tune down a half step to make the switch up a bit easier on your hands. I prefer 12's on my OM, but go to 11's if I haven't been playing much and my hands have gotten soft.

 

Sounds like you are just an hour down 88 from me.

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"Lights" are normally 0.012 - 0.053. Some manufacturers make a "Custom light" (0.011 - 0.052) and "Extra Lights" (0.010 - 0.047). You loose volume and might start compromizing playability (if you have really low action and/or low relief you might get some buzzing). Some manufactures make low tension strings (sometimes called "Silk and Steel" - opinions vary as to how good they sound).

 

Your action height (usually measured as the distance from the 12th fret to the two E strings) can make a big difference in the way your guitar sounds - hard strummers or driving flat pickers like it a little higher, us wimpy fingerpickers tend to like it lower (my personal preference is about 6/64 low E and 5/64 high but then I play a lot of slide - you can go even lower). I also like a pretty flat fretboard - less than 0.010 relief is good.

 

Lastly, by tuning down a half step or two you can make your guitar much easier to fret and play - you can always capo up when you need to.

 

And, no, most acoustic players don't put electric strings on their gits - they are designed to work in different ways.

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Posted

 

"Lights" are normally 0.012 - 0.053. Some manufacturers make a "Custom light" (0.011 - 0.052) and "Extra Lights" (0.010 - 0.047). You loose volume and might start compromizing playability (if you have really low action and/or low relief you might get some buzzing). Some manufactures make low tension strings (sometimes called "Silk and Steel" - opinions vary as to how good they sound).


Your action height (usually measured as the distance from the 12th fret to the two E strings) can make a big difference in the way your guitar sounds - hard strummers or driving flat pickers like it a little higher, us wimpy fingerpickers tend to like it lower (my personal preference is about 6/64 low E and 5/64 high but then I play a lot of slide - you can go even lower). I also like a pretty flat fretboard - less than 0.010 relief is good.


Lastly, by tuning down a half step or two you can make your guitar much easier to fret and play - you can always capo up when you need to.


And, no, most acoustic players don't put electric strings on their gits - they are designed to work in different ways.

 

 

thanks to you too, maybe I'll try tuning down, who knows, I might be able to sing better with it too. I prefer lower action myself, but my acoustic seems relatively high. However blasphemous it may be, I kinda like those fender telecoustic guitars. Even the sound is fun, albeit thinner than a normal acoustic.

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Posted

I play 12's but when I started acoustic I played 11's to work the strength up in my hands. I wouldn't go to 10's. Your tone will suffer greatly and your guitar will not be as loud.

 

The higher you make your bridge the stiffer your strings will be. Don't make your bridge too high or the amount of leverage put on your bridge can rip the bridge clean off the guitar.

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Posted

 

I don't really like the heaviness of the standard 12's on my acoustic, but I don't want something that will end up being too light sounding. Are 10's too light? Electric strings maybe? Also, could the bridge being somewhat high cause the strings to feel too heavy, or tight or something? I'm mainly an electric player, so forgive whatever dumb questions I may have.


btw, this is for acoustic electric




thanks!

 

 

In my experience, heavier strings = fatter tone. Now don't get me wrong. There are a bunch of variables involved, including and not limited to; attack and pick thickness, the construction of the instrument, the materials and construction of the strings and whether the guitar is amplified and how.

 

That having been said, one of the most skillfull and musical guitarists I have ever heard play, uses 10s on a low end dread. He, of course, is amplified when he's giging and his tone doesn't suffer.

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Posted

 

i definitely wouldn't go below 11s

 

I agree 100%. I put some extra light gauge strings and I thought it sounded awful thin. Then I tried D'Addarrio's .11-.52,big improvement.

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Posted

You could try John Pearse Bronze and Silk 610LM Light/Mediums. The strings are standard light gauges (.012 - .053), but they have slightly less tension compared to a regular bronze set. I use them on some of my guitars and like them, especially for guitars used primarily for fingerstyle.

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Posted

 

I don't know but maybe I should I {censored}ing break a string a day

 

 

i think if you routinely break any gauge acoustic string you have either A)a technique issue or B)an equipment issue (the guitar, not the strings)

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Posted

I've played extra-lights and custom lights for a few years. I usually don't notice any ill effects except that the extra lights seem a bit too light for heavy strumming. My 12-string has Dean Markley lights (.009's) tuned to D and they seem okay given that it's a 12.

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Posted

 

You could try John Pearse Bronze and Silk 610LM Light/Mediums. The strings are standard light gauges (.012 - .053), but they have slightly less tension compared to a regular bronze set. I use them on some of my guitars and like them, especially for guitars used primarily for fingerstyle.

 

 

Yeah what he said.

 

I string the D500 with John Pearse or Argentine silver wound 11s. For the heck of it I strung the Lowden with the John Pearse and it played like butter. I prefer the sound and feel of PB on that guitar BUT, these strings sounded cool!

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i think if you routinely break any gauge acoustic string you have either A)a technique issue or B)an equipment issue (the guitar, not the strings)

 

 

Agreed. To never have broken a string is something to be admired... I think.

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Posted

 

I don't know but maybe I should I {censored}ing break a string a day

 

 

 

During the Pin Test I used the same set of strings (aged 14 days) and not only retuned them at least 47 times they were completely slackened each time while I changed pins. On the very last test I broke the high E (at the tuning post) but I've got to think it was pretty tired at that time.

 

Otherwise, I would agree with Clippity - you've got a problems somewhere.

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Posted

You could try John Pearse Bronze and Silk 610LM Light/Mediums. The strings are standard light gauges (.012 - .053), but they have slightly less tension compared to a regular bronze set. I use them on some of my guitars and like them, especially for guitars used primarily for fingerstyle.

 

I've never tried a silk string. Do you lose a lot of volume with them?

 

It feels to me like Elixers have a little lower tension than most. Also, if you can find Adamas strings - they feel a little lighter as well. Your results may vary. :)

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Posted

 

During the Pin Test I used the same set of strings (aged 14 days) and not only retuned them at least 47 times they were completely slackened each time while I changed pins. On the very last test I broke the high E (at the tuning post) but I've got to think it was pretty tired at that time.


Otherwise, I would agree with Clippity - you've got a problems somewhere.

 

 

i should have added that the more you detune/tune the more likely a string break will be... my only 2 string breaks in the last couple years have been either tuning up to open A, or returning to standard from open G. used both tunings for the same song, interestingly.

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Posted

I tried the Martin Silk & Steel's. After a month I went back to my Martin light's and found my fingers got used to applying less pressure and had to rebuild some strength and callas. They do sound ok, but I do not recommend playing with them if you only have one guitar like me.

 

As for the sound, they sounded soft and decent but something just wasn't right about them... Can't quite explain it.

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Posted

Silk and steels are ok for building finger strength and calluses. Might be worth a try. They sound ok and are easier to play for longer periods of time. I used them recently, after playing mostly electric for a while and think they allowed me to play longer and easier, but I'll go back to .12's soon.

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Posted

I've never tried a silk string. Do you lose a lot of volume with them?


It feels to me like Elixers have a little lower tension than most. Also, if you can find Adamas strings - they feel a little lighter as well. Your results may vary.
:)

 

The John Pearse Bronze & Silk strings are NOT the same as silk & steel strings (for example, Martin Silk & Steel, which I use on one of my guitars). The tone of the PB&S is very similar to regular PB strings, and very unlike that of silk & steel. Here's a description:

 

http://www.jpstrings.com/brstring.htm#Silks

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